RHD steering knuckle ? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 7th, 2015, 08:47 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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RHD steering knuckle ?

So I'm entertaining the idea of doing front steering rods on my D1, sort of like what HLC used to offer.

I have found one described as a " mid 80's Defender RHD setup, 10 spline."
I don't care about the splines or even keeping ABS.

I need to know the differences between that knuckle and one off a D1?
And can I/what will be needed to make it work on my D1?

Thanks guys!
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  #2  
Old March 8th, 2015, 11:03 PM
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Nobody has any idea?
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  #3  
Old March 8th, 2015, 11:13 PM
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I have several rhd knuckles, all defender non abs. Are you trying to do reverse steering linkage? You can run the defender knuckle and it won't matter, the swivel joint is different bc of the abs. Let me know what your plans are and I can better explain
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  #4  
Old March 9th, 2015, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
I have several rhd knuckles, all defender non abs. Are you trying to do reverse steering linkage? You can run the defender knuckle and it won't matter, the swivel joint is different bc of the abs. Let me know what your plans are and I can better explain
Yes, I'm considering running the track rod up front. So the drag link would go to the passenger side, and the track rod would connect at the passenger side knuckle and then across to a RHD knuckle on the driver's side(US).
I'm just tossing around the idea for now, and am trying to get an understanding on what all would be involved to make it work.

Sounds like I could run a non-ABS knuckle, but I would need the matching swivel ball to go with it because the bushings/bearings would be different from what is on my D1?

Thanks for the help.
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  #5  
Old March 9th, 2015, 01:09 PM
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Brett,
It will be far easier to install the correct Discovery RHD knuckle than to change out swivel balls etc. for Defender parts. All the UK breakers will have the part you need. The pre -1994 Defender knuckles use a railco bush instead of the cone bearing. You can't fit the railco into your swivel ball. And then you'll have to find a matching LHD passenger side knuckle which were not sold in large quantities either here or in the UK.

In other words, you'll be changing both knuckles, both swivel balls, and buying new upper pins and railco bushes. Or you can just change one knuckle and keep the rest of your shite.

Also you may want to read up on Ackerman angle if you haven't already. Because this conversion will mess with it.
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  #6  
Old March 9th, 2015, 02:54 PM
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Thanks Pete, exactly what I was looking for. You think any RHD D1 knuckle would work? I don't think they changed anything on the D1 during production>

Also good info about the Ackerman, I hadn't previously thought of that and will look into it.

Are they any reputable breakers in UK that guys here have used?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Brett,
It will be far easier to install the correct Discovery RHD knuckle than to change out swivel balls etc. for Defender parts. All the UK breakers will have the part you need. The pre -1994 Defender knuckles use a railco bush instead of the cone bearing. You can't fit the railco into your swivel ball. And then you'll have to find a matching LHD passenger side knuckle which were not sold in large quantities either here or in the UK.

In other words, you'll be changing both knuckles, both swivel balls, and buying new upper pins and railco bushes. Or you can just change one knuckle and keep the rest of your shite.

Also you may want to read up on Ackerman angle if you haven't already. Because this conversion will mess with it.
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  #7  
Old March 10th, 2015, 10:45 AM
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I'm not sure if ANY D1 knuckle would work. Remember that D1 existed in the UK since '89 or so. I think it just needs to be post 94 and with ABS. But I would check the RAVE to find the correct part # for sure.

I think a portal tie rod and a pinion/tie rod protector would be enough to protect your shiz in all but the most extreme rockcrawling conditions. But what do I know.



Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
Thanks Pete, exactly what I was looking for. You think any RHD D1 knuckle would work? I don't think they changed anything on the D1 during production>

Also good info about the Ackerman, I hadn't previously thought of that and will look into it.

Are they any reputable breakers in UK that guys here have used?
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #8  
Old March 10th, 2015, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I'm not sure if ANY D1 knuckle would work. Remember that D1 existed in the UK since '89 or so. I think it just needs to be post 94 and with ABS. But I would check the RAVE to find the correct part # for sure.

I think a portal tie rod and a pinion/tie rod protector would be enough to protect your shiz in all but the most extreme rockcrawling conditions. But what do I know.
Thank you.
Moving the track rod to the front wasn't necessarily for protection, but to make it easier for a 3-link setup.
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  #9  
Old March 10th, 2015, 11:53 AM
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Knuckle

I might have what you're looking for. I had an abs rhd disco 1 knuckle but gave it to my brother years ago. Let me check if he still has it. He did this mod along time ago and it worked good. He has a RTE 5" lift, extended pan hard rod and castor correction though.
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  #10  
Old March 10th, 2015, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
I might have what you're looking for. I had an abs rhd disco 1 knuckle but gave it to my brother years ago. Let me check if he still has it. He did this mod along time ago and it worked good. He has a RTE 5" lift, extended pan hard rod and castor correction though.
Damn, that is quite the setup.
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  #11  
Old March 10th, 2015, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Brett,
Also you may want to read up on Ackerman angle if you haven't already. Because this conversion will mess with it.
Yes, you will have reverse Ackerman angles. Not the greatest for road use.
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  #12  
Old March 10th, 2015, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
I might have what you're looking for. I had an abs rhd disco 1 knuckle but gave it to my brother years ago. Let me check if he still has it. He did this mod along time ago and it worked good. He has a RTE 5" lift, extended pan hard rod and castor correction though.
Nice. How has the passenger side been with that setup in single shear? My concern is running it in single shear, or trying to weld an additional support onto the pot metal on the knuckle.

I will end up having a 3", maybe 4" lift, RTE corrected arms, and RTE adjustable panhard.
I'm also looking to run my shocks outside of the springs. What kind of towers are in the pictures?

I'd be interested in the knuckle if it turns up.
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  #13  
Old March 10th, 2015, 02:08 PM
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Series swivel housings are a much better base for this project. They have suitable room for mounting custom high clearance front mounted steering arms. Been done and works well.
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Old March 10th, 2015, 02:19 PM
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Not that I know of. A good friend has this on his truck. The rest of the axle is coiler bits, AFAIK. He probably told me what was needed, but who remembers and he does not post anything online. The steering arms bolt to the top of the housings. IIRC, he talked a lot with Tim Cooper about options.

I should take some pictures of his truck one day....
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Old March 11th, 2015, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Is there a write up somewhere? What about spindles, hubs and brakes?

-Jeff
I ask my friend what he did. He has Series hubs with a disc conversion. He does have a coiler housing, but it involved welding series flanges on.

He stated that adding high steer to a Series axle is very simple. He did not think adding Series swivel housings to a coiler axle would be simple.
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  #16  
Old March 11th, 2015, 11:10 AM
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A couple of more pics. His home made high steer arm and series versus coiler swivel pins...
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  #17  
Old March 11th, 2015, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
My concern is running it in single shear, or trying to weld an additional support onto the pot metal on the knuckle.
I wouldn't worry about single shear in this application. The standard ball joints are single shear, for example. The odd thing is the distance from the knuckle to the top joint. That's a lot of leverage. But then again, this is the steering arm - there's a lot that will break/bend before that joint does.

AFAIK, the knuckle is made of cast steel, right? I don't think I've seen any vehicle with knuckles made of anything but.
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  #18  
Old March 11th, 2015, 02:49 PM
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Has anybody ever considered doing something like this but on a Rover?

And instead of using a TRE with a hole, just weld a bracket onto the track rod for the drag link to connect to?
I'm thinking then I could run the track rod with standard Rover TRE's at each end, and the drag link would have a Rover TRE at the pitman arm and a rod end where it connects to the track rod.
Thoughts?

The idea of this is actually really appealing to me. It would eliminate and drilling of the knuckles, pressing in of bolts, use of many heims, single shear applications a few inches above the knuckle. I already have about 75% of the components for doing something like this, and could revert back to stock rods at any time.
Usually when I have ideas like this someone points out something I missed that would actually kill a bus of nuns and the party is over.........
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Old March 11th, 2015, 03:08 PM
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This is assuming that you've moved the track rod to the front of the truck, right?
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  #20  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:09 PM
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Personally, I would use Rover TREs all around for ease of maintenance. Reamers are not that bad.

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