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  #21  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:14 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
This is assuming that you've moved the track rod to the front of the truck, right?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Personally, I would use Rover TREs all around for ease of maintenance. Reamers are not that bad.

Taper Reamer for Toyota Tierod Ends | eBay
I wouldn't mind, would actually like to use all Rover TRE's. I just can't envision how to connect a Rover TRE from the drag link to the track rod. I guess some sort of bracket and thick ass steel reamed out to a Rover taper?
And do Rover and Toyota use the same taper???
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  #22  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
And do Rover and Toyota use the same taper???
Land Cruiser is the same 1:10 (1.2" per foot).
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  #23  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:26 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
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Land Cruiser is the same 1:10 (1.2" per foot).
Good to know, thank you!!

So are there downsides to a Y-link steering setup like in the pic?
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  #24  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:30 PM
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If it were me, I would fabricate an extension to the arm and weld it on.

Are not the front arms longer than the rear? Something to keep in mind as you don't want to run out of steering box travel. There is not a lot of extra to spare.
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  #25  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
Good to know, thank you!!

So are there downsides to a Y-link steering setup like in the pic?
Mostly, I would think making it all strong enough.

I'm not a big fan of the whole front and low steering linkage myself. I would just see it getting bent ever two minutes.
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  #26  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
If it were me, I would fabricate an extension to the arm and weld it on.

Are not the front arms longer than the rear? Something to keep in mind as you don't want to run out of steering box travel. There is not a lot of extra to spare.
You mean the front "arms" on the knuckle?
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  #27  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
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You mean the front "arms" on the knuckle?
Yes.
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  #28  
Old March 11th, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Brett, you do realize that Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees use the same setup, right?

I'm confused why you are asking if it will work.
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  #29  
Old March 11th, 2015, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Brett, you do realize that Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees use the same setup, right?

I'm confused why you are asking if it will work.
Well Jeeps and whatnot are different vehicle and I prefer not to take things for granted. There are other things that work on Jeeps that don't on Rovers. Plus I'm getting conflicting reports on if it will actually work, which I guess I should expect.
I'm just trying to think this through all the way(with the board's help) before I jump in up to my neck.
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  #30  
Old March 11th, 2015, 04:03 PM
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You never to mention the reverse Ackerman problem. Are you okay with that?
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  #31  
Old March 11th, 2015, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
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You never to mention the reverse Ackerman problem. Are you okay with that?
Yeah I think I'm ok with that. What was mentioned to me is that Rover never really addressed Ackerman anyway. They used basically the same knuckles on D90, 110, and D1; which all have different wheelbases which effect the angle.
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  #32  
Old March 11th, 2015, 04:22 PM
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Well, yes, but they have positive ackerman so it is only a bit off. With the front arms being used, you will have reverse Ackerman, so there will be noticeable tire scrub on pavement in tight turns.
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  #33  
Old March 11th, 2015, 07:28 PM
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Brett, it sounds like your good but if you want you can stop by and take a look under the 110.
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  #34  
Old March 11th, 2015, 08:57 PM
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I modelled the steering knuckles at work to measure the Ackerman change.
I will post up the numbers tomorrow when I go to work.
I would like to do this as well.
Losing the Ackerman angle will negatively effect slow speed turning at full lock and maybe turning radius also.
Turning radius is pretty dismal already.
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  #35  
Old March 11th, 2015, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdansan View Post
I modelled the steering knuckles at work to measure the Ackerman change.
I will post up the numbers tomorrow when I go to work.
I would like to do this as well.
Losing the Ackerman angle will negatively effect slow speed turning at full lock and maybe turning radius also.
Turning radius is pretty dismal already.
Thanks Dan, I'd appreciate the numbers. What kind of effect on slow speed turning?

And thanks Bill! Sometimes I forget you're so close AND have a 110. :D
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  #36  
Old March 11th, 2015, 11:48 PM
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100% Ackerman allows toe out to increase as steering angle increases making the inside and outside tires track circles of different sizes but ideally around the same center point.
I don't know what percentage of Ackerman is built into the Rover steering arms.
For positive Ackerman with front steer (steering arms in front of axle) the steering arms would be angled outward from the swivel pin.
With negative Ackerman the inside tires is tracking a larger radius that the outside tire.
This creates scrub and slip of one of the tires that increases as steering angle increases.
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  #37  
Old March 12th, 2015, 05:19 PM
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I just realized I modeled the knuckle 180 wrong. The swivel location was on the wrong side of the steering pivot line and skewed my results.
Which makes sense now after holding my spares in my hand.
I thought the values I was getting were wrong.
I was right, I did it wrong. I will fix the models tomorrow and post the results.
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  #38  
Old March 12th, 2015, 05:44 PM
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See below. No fancy calculations required. Perfect Ackerman has the line of the steering arms intersecting at the rear axle.
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  #39  
Old March 13th, 2015, 10:55 AM
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Brett Fritzler
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the dialogue and information.
After consideration I don't think I'm going to make the change.
The only real reason to run the track rod up front is to make it easier to 3-link the front axle. I think that would be cool, but if I'm really honest with myself I don't see that happening.
Cheers!
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