Rewiring all rear lights - Electrical Issues - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 20th, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
Thats classic! Really? you just got a multi-meter.....make sure you read the instructions so you can quote it to us and provide pdf files ..lmao
Don't make fun. Did you ever figure out what the base idle is on a Defender, btw?

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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
scotch locks could be the issue. I would redo all the rear light pigtails if they look like that.
I didn't have any scotch locks in the back (but maybe there were at one time - good point) - there were some up front that I got rid of a few months ago when I removed the ARB. I re-ran all new pigtails in the back about a month ago - I cut back about 6" from that split in the wire on that particular set hoping to get any/all of the corrosion that may have grown in there, since the Atlantic british kit comes with about a foot of new leads. It didn't fix the problem.
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  #22  
Old September 20th, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Just remember im not a hobbyist..and have real world experience....just trying to help you out... Im not the one with a simple two wire power + ground circuit problem....i mean really this is automotive basics ..... Just because it's written doesn't mean it's true....ive never seen a book fix a truck....again being the nice guy i am my hand is always out
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  #23  
Old September 20th, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
Just remember im not a hobbyist..and have real world experience....just trying to help you out... Im not the one with a simple two wire power + ground circuit problem....i mean really this is automotive basics ..... Just because it's written doesn't mean it's true....ive never seen a book fix a truck....again being the nice guy i am my hand is always out
Dude I appreciate the help. This thread was started to find a good source for a rear wiring harness if you read the first post. You have come forward as a source for said wiring harness - how much?

Plus, these symptoms can mean any number of things - headlight switch contacts, ignition switch, faulty or corroded pigtails and connections, etc. Based on the items I had spares of, I checked those items first - there was improvement (both brake lights now work) but still not fully solved (tail and brake lights don't work when headlights are on).

The diagrams I was using to try to TRACK THE LOCATION of the grounds to check. If you know any other grounds I should check and their location, please let me know. Right now I'm only driving the truck while the sun is out. Sort of anti-vampire I guess.
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  #24  
Old September 20th, 2012, 12:18 PM
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See you be a little nice and not so cocky you'll get results .....lets get to it more likely the rear harness is done condensation has wicked up the harness causing high resistance what your experiencing is possibly the circuit searching for a good ground or power back feeding due to the resistance ...another thing is did you swap out the hazard switch? Alot of that circuit goes through that switch ... If its faulty or corroded will cause your issuses ..i have some trade secrets and tools If you really want to fix it i would be more than happy to help you.. call me your not that far from me as for $$ really the dealer gets 125+ hr so any less your making out unless you want some hack to fix it for pennies on the dollar
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  #25  
Old September 20th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Not sure when I was being cocky exactly - when I said I like to learn new things and that half the fun is doing the work myself or with others who have more experience with it than I do? You must have read into that too far, because I genuinely appreciate(d) your offer and have been talking to a customer of yours who is already having you do that work.

I don't recall if I've touched the hazard switch - I may have a spare though. I'll check into all the suggestions this weekend. Thanks!
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  #26  
Old December 15th, 2015, 12:01 PM
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resurrection! What did you end up doing horsey... because I am about to replace the rear loom as well as I am going LED and think its a pertinent move
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  #27  
Old December 15th, 2015, 12:37 PM
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I ended up just buying the 12" lead kits that RN and others sold and eventually replaced with LEDs and have not had any issues since then. The water getting into the lenses and bulbs (and staying there) was what was likely causing most of the issues, and I lucked out that the short/corrosion was isolated to one side and up near the lights so was easy to track down and replace. Haha all these years later it still cracks me up that Chris got bent out of shape when I asked what he'd charged others for the replacement looms/harnesses just so that I could get an idea of what it'd cost since none of the "trade secrets" were being offered up.
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  #28  
Old December 16th, 2015, 11:26 AM
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I am trying to figure out why these are routed through the chassis, has anyone gone and moved this wiring into the interior?

I realize aesthetics might be the #1 reason, got an estimate for the full harness for 100GBP for a new harness with a 4-6 week delivery time... Seems like I could easily just pull my harness and remake it for considerably less than that but looking for an experienced voice here.
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  #29  
Old December 16th, 2015, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
I am trying to figure out why these are routed through the chassis, has anyone gone and moved this wiring into the interior?

I realize aesthetics might be the #1 reason, got an estimate for the full harness for 100GBP for a new harness with a 4-6 week delivery time... Seems like I could easily just pull my harness and remake it for considerably less than that but looking for an experienced voice here.
We don't run them through the chassis - while they are well protected in the chassis, dealing with one faulty wire inside the run is a huge PITA.

There is ample room to run a well protected harness along the top of the frame next to the brake and fuel lines. Easier to secure when the body is off of course, but not impossible to retrofit. And £100 for a loom with the correct connectors isn't a bad price as good materials will set you back more than half that cost, and then add in your time.
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  #30  
Old December 16th, 2015, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
We don't run them through the chassis - while they are well protected in the chassis, dealing with one faulty wire inside the run is a huge PITA.

There is ample room to run a well protected harness along the top of the frame next to the brake and fuel lines. Easier to secure when the body is off of course, but not impossible to retrofit. And £100 for a loom with the correct connectors isn't a bad price as good materials will set you back more than half that cost, and then add in your time.
I guess thats just it, not sure the quality coming out of the wiring companies in UK. Could be good, but I could run expensive stuff through my own loom.

I am looking at connectors, they are all over the place, but all LED lights seem to require a connector added so I figured I might as well go ahead and buy marine 2 and 3 way waterproof connectors with leads.

Any advice on where to look for high quality, difference in price is negligible but amazon offerings are small gauge (which I realize is all you need with LED).

Welcome to WireBarn - Quality Wire Made in USA has a great selection of wire in multipacks, at 25FT runs, price is reasonable

and I am looking at these for replacing all connectors besides headlights"
http://www.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Water...CE6A8739EBHYF3

Any advice on gauge ect would be appreciated, I know its in the forum but with the infinityx1000 posts on this subject I figured I would try and get a quick answer
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  #31  
Old December 16th, 2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post

I am looking at connectors, they are all over the place, but all LED lights seem to require a connector added so I figured I might as well go ahead and buy marine 2 and 3 way waterproof connectors with leads.
All the LEDs I've seen come with the waterproof connectors as used on all 1994+ Defenders.
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  #32  
Old December 16th, 2015, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
All the LEDs I've seen come with the waterproof connectors as used on all 1994+ Defenders.
Currently my rig has crimp connectors which I just did a shit job of replacing when I wired in a trailer light plug.

To be fair they were just crimp connectors before but I at least ran heat shrink tubing over the lot of them and cleaned up a questionable install

http://https://www.wirecare.com/braided-sleeving.asp

Thoughts on this for wire cover?
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  #33  
Old December 16th, 2015, 12:54 PM
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I'm confused as to what you are getting at. When you buy new Defender LED lights, they have a waterproof connector. At the same time, you purchase the other side of the connector. The normal loom has soldered bullet connectors that these connect to. If you don't want the bullets, then solder splice and heat shrink with self sealing heat shrink.
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  #34  
Old December 16th, 2015, 01:12 PM
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Some of them do, some of them don't, the RDX kits don't have any connectors

I know people have put these on non NAS trucks so I guess I am looking for some input as to the best method to go since I need to hack up my wiring to accomplish this or run a new loom front to back.

Seems like most people are using the WIPAC kits currently since the RDX are generally not highly regarded.

While I am at it I need to replace my Fuse panel as well, still have the glass style box.
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  #35  
Old December 16th, 2015, 01:35 PM
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You don't want to be connectors with leads as that just adds a bunch of splices. You want a kit with the connectors loose for crimping onto the wires if you are making up your own.

Something common like Metripack or Weatherpack would make the most sense. I think the stock lights use Econoseal.
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