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  #1  
Old October 23rd, 2009, 08:42 AM
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D Cantrell
1997 D90SW
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Restore Chequer Plate

I pulled all the Chequer Plate of my 90, It was looking nasty and I had to do some paint repairs.... Anyway the budget is all but gone so powder coating them is out. And buffing them is too bling bling for the look im after but it will look better than a bead blasted finish...

So far I blasted them clean with fine glass, but now id like add the satin finish back to it. Any ideas on what chemical I can use to achieve this?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old October 23rd, 2009, 10:07 AM
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Scott
1997 D90 ST #1444
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I would just prime and paint them with a rattle can...

I repainted the set of black ones I had on my SW came out fine. Then recently, I took them off, stripped them and took them back to silver.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 10:59 AM
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Nick Vogel
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How well did it hold up? What would be the ideal process to get them to last the longest? I got a great deal on some OEM wingtops but really want to change them to black. I would have them powder coated, but dont want to mess up the felt on the bottom.
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  #4  
Old October 23rd, 2009, 11:04 AM
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Scott
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The original powder coat was faded pretty bad, which is why I decided to paint them. It held up fine, but since it was paint, it was pretty easy to touch up.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 11:37 AM
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Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90DRC
I pulled all the Chequer Plate of my 90, It was looking nasty and I had to do some paint repairs.... Anyway the budget is all but gone so powder coating them is out. And buffing them is too bling bling for the look im after but it will look better than a bead blasted finish...

So far I blasted them clean with fine glass, but now id like add the satin finish back to it. Any ideas on what chemical I can use to achieve this?

Thanks
Single color PC would run maybe $25 for both of those pieces. No more than $30 max. After a year you will be happy you did it. No paint in a can will ever hold up, especially if you ever have to climb up there.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 01:35 PM
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Nick Vogel
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$30? Ever place I called in Houston was quoting me shop minimum of at least $175!
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  #7  
Old October 23rd, 2009, 02:43 PM
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Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736
$30? Ever place I called in Houston was quoting me shop minimum of at least $175!
Wow, your getting straight boned!

My all of my panels were $100. My sway bar for a two stage was $40. My dash with sandblast was $50. this is pretty standard minus a few bucks for my discount. If you want to send them to me, I can have them done for $30-40 worst case. Shipping may poop on the deal for you. Not sure.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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Old October 23rd, 2009, 03:11 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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last time I did them here in Dallas it was about $50
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  #9  
Old October 24th, 2009, 10:04 PM
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D Cantrell
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Why bother using a rattle can?

Its not that difficult to paint with a catalyst hardened paint and it will last 100 times longer..

Time and the weather is really working against me I have to have this thing done in a few weeks... A fix I did find is use a Aluminum corrosion remover. I dulls the finish and looks like the original coating...

If time and weather cooperates I may just undercoat with POR 15 and top coat with a silver wheel paint I have... Bare Aluminum gets craped out here in the winter

Buck,

Here in New England PC is very expensive... In San Diego. The shop I used to use in El Cajon by the airport for my diff guards and other stuff I used to make only charged me 15 per.

I took my only pair left to get redone and the local PC shop wanted 95 plus 25 to blast...
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Old October 24th, 2009, 11:18 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Very interested to see the result of this rebuild. It sounds quite extensive.
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  #11  
Old October 25th, 2009, 11:09 AM
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Initially it was going to be more extensive but the weather and soon to be ex wife did not cooperate.... I have to get it rolling on its own by first snow.... Mainly it was a corrosion prevention and some core changes. I added some cool trick parts... Hopefully I can make it to winter romp this year if not a participant at least a passenger..
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  #12  
Old October 25th, 2009, 01:56 PM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Why not get them anodized?
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  #13  
Old October 25th, 2009, 08:41 PM
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Don Bunnell
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FWIW, I got some parts powder coated recently and it was $176 for the rear bumper, sway, enclosed hooks and a box of brackets for jump seats I'm installing. You guys know what the rear bumper looks like and has all some nooks and crannies. It looks like brand new so I think the price was far for NJ.

I'm surprised it costs so much in NH - I would think there would be a number of powder companies for motorcycles, farm equipment, trucks, etc that seem abundent up there. I was going to say check out MA but by the time you factor in fuel and time costs it's not worth it.

What about just leaving the chequer raw and then getting them done next spring?

I undercoated part of rear cross member and frame with POR-15. I have the chassis black on the bench and will do tha later this week or next week. I know a lot of people like the Waxoyl but I want to have smooth frame finish on the outside and then Waxoyl the insides of the tubes.
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  #14  
Old October 25th, 2009, 08:51 PM
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Ryan
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Don -- Where in NJ did you go? I got some sliders sandblasted & powdercoated at a place in Paterson a year or so ago.
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