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  #21  
Old July 1st, 2016, 07:47 AM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
Appears to be early 10 spline. Stick out will not clear alloy wheel center caps without a thick spacer. I'd seriously consider swapping in the DI axles as suggested earlier. It's an improvement all around. That's the plan for my '84 110.
Seriously. D1 axles have to be dirt cheap from a scrap yard.
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  #22  
Old July 1st, 2016, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by st0k3d View Post
What flange does this look like to everyone? The thick one? If it is, I guess I don't really have an option for alloys at all. I will just get Wolfs now and be done with it.

I will also see if I can apply the money I sent to LRI for seats or tire carrier or something if the wheels haven't left the UK yet.


Just keep in mind your wheel studs without spacers are not designed for alloys or wolf wheels which are ever so slightly thicker than regular steel wheels. The lugs will be a thread or two short of sitting flush with the stud. This is ok(somebody posted a report by the MoD showing the data or something) but I'm going to guess if axle end caps sticking out bothers you that you will be bothered by this, too.

My suggestions are get 1 ton rims that are 6.5" wide (130/NAS 110 rims) or swap the D1 axles which isn't tough or expensive.
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  #23  
Old July 1st, 2016, 09:35 AM
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Jafir Elkurd
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I think I paid $400 from a local junk yard for both axles out of a 1999 D1 with all of the arms and steering still attached. The vehicle was hit very hard, so a lot of that stuff was bent and no good, but they weren't really charging me for the extras anyway.
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  #24  
Old July 1st, 2016, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
Just keep in mind your wheel studs without spacers are not designed for alloys or wolf wheels which are ever so slightly thicker than regular steel wheels. The lugs will be a thread or two short of sitting flush with the stud. This is ok(somebody posted a report by the MoD showing the data or something) but I'm going to guess if axle end caps sticking out bothers you that you will be bothered by this, too.

My suggestions are get 1 ton rims that are 6.5" wide (130/NAS 110 rims) or swap the D1 axles which isn't tough or expensive.
1 ton wheels are hard to find. I have a feeling tracking down all the parts for a conversion is going to take a while. Especially since I have to do the back as well, if I don't want to use spacers. Might as well upgrade to vented front brakes and disc rear.

I want these tires on the truck the day I get it. I hate the way it looks right now. I will grab some Wolf's to hold me over. I will keep the boost for when I convert the axles. I will sell the spacers.

Ill run the lugs a couple threads short, that won't bother me really.

Now the question is what color Wolfs. So torn between silver or black.


------ Follow up post added July 1st, 2016 10:42 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
I think I paid $400 from a local junk yard for both axles out of a 1999 D1 with all of the arms and steering still attached. The vehicle was hit very hard, so a lot of that stuff was bent and no good, but they weren't really charging me for the extras anyway.
Wow that's it? Even with the diff's and everything?

I guess I will start collecting the parts I need to do the swap. I just need to buy Disco 1 front and rear axle assemblies? Any particular year ideal? Are the ratios the same in the diffs? From a manual or automatic truck matter?

thanks
Adam
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  #25  
Old July 1st, 2016, 09:47 AM
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I'd just buy the procomp steel wheels from 4wheel parts and have them powder coated.
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  #26  
Old July 1st, 2016, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st0k3d View Post
Wow that's it? Even with the diff's and everything?

I guess I will start collecting the parts I need to do the swap. I just need to buy Disco 1 front and rear axle assemblies? Any particular year ideal? Are the ratios the same in the diffs? From a manual or automatic truck matter?
Complete, with diffs and even the brakes.

Any year D1 could be made to work. I assume a non-ABS would be best, but that will be very hard or impossible to find. I used whatever was close because they are very heavy.
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  #27  
Old July 1st, 2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jafir View Post
Complete, with diffs and even the brakes.

Any year D1 could be made to work. I assume a non-ABS would be best, but that will be very hard or impossible to find. I used whatever was close because they are very heavy.
I just did a search, theres a ton of them within 50 miles of here.

The rear was complete bolt in too? Comes with calipers and stuff attached? Sorry for being naive about this, it is new to me.
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  #28  
Old July 1st, 2016, 10:19 AM
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Sure. The ABS rear has two brake hoses and the non-abs has just one with a T, but you can remove the "split" T or whatever you want to call it, and replace it with the T from the defender. That's what I did. If it's too rusty you can get a new T.

On the rear I left the ABS sensors and wiring in place for the time being, and I just zip tied them up out of the way.

For the front, I followed some advice here and cut off the sensor flush and re-install them with RTV. They interfere with the brake hose brackets that a defender uses, the brackets angle the hoses a different direction or something if I recall correctly, so I swapped the defender stuff over.

Also, for the front, up to a certain year the radius arms were thinner than what a NAS D1 uses, but your's might be new enough, i'm not sure. On mine, I made sure to get the radius arms, and I had to get an extra from Will Tillery because once was bent.
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  #29  
Old July 1st, 2016, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st0k3d View Post
Awesome, thanks for the advice.

If you have any of those axle and brake conversation kits available PM me a price. I wouldn't mind the upgrade and not having to run spacers.
I can't buy enough of them for customer projects. Always on the hunt.
Best advice find a pick and pull close to you or contact Paul Grant in Ct. Range rover lwb 93-95 or disco one axles will both work. With the front axle get the control arms as your early ones wont work with the later axle housing.
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  #30  
Old July 1st, 2016, 11:06 AM
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Couldn't you also just widen the steel wheels you have? Just seems crazy to me to swap axles for wheels
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  #31  
Old July 1st, 2016, 12:14 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
I think I paid $400 from a local junk yard for both axles out of a 1999 D1 with all of the arms and steering still attached. The vehicle was hit very hard, so a lot of that stuff was bent and no good, but they weren't really charging me for the extras anyway.
I bought a running D1 for $400. Kept a bunch of parts(including axles) and scrapped the rest for $200, and they picked it up.
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  #32  
Old July 1st, 2016, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I can't buy enough of them for customer projects. Always on the hunt.
Best advice find a pick and pull close to you or contact Paul Grant in Ct. Range rover lwb 93-95 or disco one axles will both work. With the front axle get the control arms as your early ones wont work with the later axle housing.


There's a whole D1 at a metal recycler over my way. I can stop in and ask about it if you need.
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  #33  
Old July 1st, 2016, 01:58 PM
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265/75 will fit the 5.5 rim no problem. Don't believe the hype.
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Present:
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  #34  
Old July 1st, 2016, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slorocco View Post
There's a whole D1 at a metal recycler over my way. I can stop in and ask about it if you need.
Dan I'm always looking for axles and steering, ie box, panhard bracket etc
Let me know. Right now I could use two front axles with panhard brackets.
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  #35  
Old July 1st, 2016, 02:52 PM
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Aren't the front 10 spline CV joints AEU2522s? The OP should definitely keep those as those are mighty in combination with 24/23 halfshafts....
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  #36  
Old July 1st, 2016, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
265/75 will fit the 5.5 rim no problem. Don't believe the hype.
That's what I was thinking the whole thread.

I have had 315's on a 7" and 285's on 6.5" Wolfs - both were fine.

And if you still felt unsafe just get the white Wolf/NATO wheels from Rovers North. A set of them should be little more than the 4 spacers.

Now if you wanted Disco axles for 4 wheel discs and 24 spline axles shafts (for future HD options) and possible LHD conversion then do the upgrade.
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  #37  
Old July 1st, 2016, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Dan I'm always looking for axles and steering, ie box, panhard bracket etc
Let me know. Right now I could use two front axles with panhard brackets.
I'll try to swing by if they're open. If they are closed I'll at least get you a phone number.
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  #38  
Old July 1st, 2016, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
That's what I was thinking the whole thread.

I have had 315's on a 7" and 285's on 6.5" Wolfs - both were fine.

And if you still felt unsafe just get the white Wolf/NATO wheels from Rovers North. A set of them should be little more than the 4 spacers.

Now if you wanted Disco axles for 4 wheel discs and 24 spline axles shafts (for future HD options) and possible LHD conversion then do the upgrade.

Ah I didn't realize I could stretch them on that far. I figured half inch was the limit. I ordered a set of black wolf from RN today. I'll run those until I switch the axles in a couple months. Should look tough.
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  #39  
Old July 1st, 2016, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by st0k3d View Post
Ah I didn't realize I could stretch them on that far. I figured half inch was the limit. I ordered a set of black wolf from RN today. I'll run those until I switch the axles in a couple months. Should look tough.
I think Wolfs look just right on the early 90/110's. I won't be surprised if you keep them long term., haha
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  #40  
Old July 1st, 2016, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by don View Post
I think Wolfs look just right on the early 90/110's. I won't be surprised if you keep them long term., haha


Agreed

285's on RN wolfs




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