Replacing NATO light switch - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 31st, 2015, 05:31 PM
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Henry Lambert
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Replacing NATO light switch

I successfully found the plug on the loom to install the civilian light switch.

The problem is that once I disconnect the NATO switch I lose the hazards and indicators.

I'm no electrician but I've tried using test light and multimeter to work out the issue but so far only found the permanent live.

I've dug deep on the forums and found plenty of people saying they managed this but no one saying how.

Anyone have any clues?
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  #2  
Old November 1st, 2015, 08:39 AM
mtsl500
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I have been researching this a bit, it's on the to-do list after
1.) Receiving the vehicle
2.) Registering the vehicle
3.) Driving the vehicle ... you get the point

I found the following circuit diagram, seems to be pretty straight forward to me hope it helps you (posted the link as the diagram is something like 1500x1100)

http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co...ircuitNewA.jpg


Also, if you're doing this and haven't installed a harness to add relays, might be a good opportunity ... everything I've read says you'll see a huge impact on the lighting as well as extend the life of any and all switches

Hope that's useful
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  #3  
Old November 1st, 2015, 09:27 AM
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Henry Lambert
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Thanks mate. Red90 on this forum has a very good circuit diagram for FFRs which has been useful.

Weirdly the wire colours in the diagram you posted don't correspond with my truck - do you know what year that diagram is for?

Either way I still can't workout why the NATO switch is necessary now that I've installed the civvy one.

Here's a bad photo of the wiring that goes into the NATO switch

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  #4  
Old November 1st, 2015, 09:29 AM
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Henry Lambert
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The image isn't clear but the wires are: brown, brown with white trace, red, blue, green with purple trace.
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  #5  
Old November 1st, 2015, 10:23 AM
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John B.
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The photo on the link above appears to be the circuit diagram for a series 3 lightweight, not a Defender.
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  #6  
Old November 1st, 2015, 10:25 AM
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What I would do.... Disconnect the switch and mark which wires are live. Plug it in and now check which circuits are live. One or more of them must be joined with the switch connected in the off position. Once you figure out which ones are powered by the switch, you can install a jumper(s) on the plug after disconnecting it.
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Old November 1st, 2015, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The photo on the link above appears to be the circuit diagram for a series 3 lightweight, not a Defender.
Appreciate the heads up, ordered the Military User Handbook and the Restoration manual to go with the workshop manual v8engine sent me, hope those help.

I'm trying to find the wiring diagram you have on here to bookmark that as well for this eventual undertaking
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  #8  
Old November 1st, 2015, 11:21 AM
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Henry Lambert
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Here's the diagram from Red90's site: http://www.red90.ca/rovers/Defender%...%20diagram.pdf

------ Follow up post added November 1st, 2015 09:25 AM ------

Thanks Red90. I thought I'd been doing that with the multimeter. I'll spend some more time with it because it should be relatively straightforward!
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  #9  
Old November 1st, 2015, 04:05 PM
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Henry Lambert
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Turns out just needed to bridge the brown to brown/white (permanent live to fuse box)
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  #10  
Old January 24th, 2016, 07:59 PM
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Hey I know this post was from a while ago but looking to do the same thing on my 87 MOD.

So replacing the NATO switch with a civilian switch is done by plugging in the new switch on the column and bridging the brown to brown/white (permanent live to fuse box)?

I have been trying to find more information on how to wire this but cant find to much as well.

Any other suggestions that people have found?
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  #11  
Old January 24th, 2016, 11:12 PM
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Henry Lambert
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That's how I solved it. But others didn't need to bridge the multi plug behind the NATO switch.
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  #12  
Old January 25th, 2016, 08:01 PM
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I have been looking at Red90s diagram and this looks like the connector for the light switch correct?
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  #13  
Old January 26th, 2016, 08:43 AM
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Never mind I realize now that that connector is for the Blackout lights.

I opened the steering column up but didnt find any open connectors that look like they would fit into the light switch.

Anyone have any other ideas where it can be or what to do if there isnt one?

Thanks
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  #14  
Old January 27th, 2016, 05:33 AM
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Some looms had the "civilian" bypass plug built in, some didn't.


If you don't have it, then as said above, link the brown/brown-white, which will give permanent feed to the hazards (and via the ignition, the turn lights and brake lights)


From the NATO plug, there will be 3 wires that feed the lights (rear tail lights, front side lights, then the headlights).... off the top of my head, without looking at a diagram, I'm sure the tail and side lights are thin red wires (you can find out, by fitting the NATO switch and with a multimeter test to see which ones get power when you turn the switch to S and T)


anyway, the tail and side will need joining together, and these will connect to the sidelight feed from the new civvy switch,, and the remaining headlight wire will go to the headlight cable from the NATO switch
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  #15  
Old January 27th, 2016, 08:21 AM
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Thanks Diesel_jim, very helpful.

I was talking with Johns_D90 and he recommended I make a plate to house the NATO switch similar to where his is on his Australian 110. So I took the switch apart and moved it, hopefully it fits, so now I have the best of both worlds, black out switch and open dash!

But now that I know I could wire up the switch maybe I will go back to the orignal plan...

Heres a picture of what I made
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  #16  
Old January 27th, 2016, 10:50 AM
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That's a really slick looking plate. Nice work.
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  #17  
Old January 27th, 2016, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRDMOD View Post
Thanks Diesel_jim, very helpful.

I was talking with Johns_D90 and he recommended I make a plate to house the NATO switch similar to where his is on his Australian 110. So I took the switch apart and moved it, hopefully it fits, so now I have the best of both worlds, black out switch and open dash!

But now that I know I could wire up the switch maybe I will go back to the orignal plan...

Heres a picture of what I made


Nice. Great idea!
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  #18  
Old January 27th, 2016, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
Nice. Great idea!
I was just the consultant, thank the Aussies. For anyone curious it is Blackout lights, LT95 Diff Lock, dash light dimmer.
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