Replacing my fuel tank - ROW / UK side mount - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 1st, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Replacing my fuel tank - ROW / UK side mount

So i could give you guys a long write up, but I found this one online and couldn't find anything on this forum - so i figured I'd get the link in here

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19112

In short that write up is pretty much spot on.

The one thing I found is the bolts were stuck on my front support bracket, so I just cut the bracket in half, removed the gas tank, then removed the bracket and welded it back together, simple fix.

You need to remove the front bracket in order to drop the tank, and even then it requires some kicking and yanking.

Took about an hr to get the old one out, gonna put the new on in tomorrow and will follow up with any additional info.


FWIW - my tank started leaking exactly in the spot described in that link, a new on from RN was about $300 shipped.


EDIT:
I just got an idea - I'm thinking why not remove the battery/battery box from the other side, put in a second fuel tank and relocate the battery under the hood somewhere... I'm sure I could find a place to fit a battery in that engine bay, theres loads of room.

anyone do this before?
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  #2  
Old May 1st, 2012, 09:08 PM
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I had a pair of alum tanks made a few years ago to replace the origional saddle tank & put a second under the battery side. I use a 2 way fuel & gauge valve to switch between them, works great & the motor doesn't even cough if you switch on the run

Here are a few pic's of them & the fuel filler I added to fill the second tank up.
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Old May 1st, 2012, 09:51 PM
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I was thinking have the second tank just pump into the first....

where did you put your battery and how did you mount it
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
I was thinking have the second tank just pump into the first....

where did you put your battery and how did you mount it
Made a box to go behind the tub bulkhead in the 90, now I'm rebuilding it again so have made a simple battery cradle for a pair of PC1500's. Same place as was in the tub... just not anymore
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 08:28 AM
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Looks like I'm getting lazy and am just gonna wrap up the single tank.... Thats why they made jerry cans right haha!


The battery box is on my list, when I cut the old one out maybe I'll get ambitous for this project.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Andy I really like those tanks you had made up. Do you still have the contact of who made those? or a drawing so I could get some made up? daniel. marcello @gmail.com
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
Andy I really like those tanks you had made up. Do you still have the contact of who made those? or a drawing so I could get some made up? daniel. marcello @gmail.com
Sorry.... not got his # now..... but I do have a very nice CAD drawing I drew for him to make them from

I feel tokens are in order
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 06:58 PM
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I'm sure those tanks were a pretty penny, the proline replacement is about $300 shipped. Obvisouly there are advantages to an AL tank, but depending on the price point it might make more sense to go with a steel OEM replacement..


Way I figure it, if the steel one i just took out was good for 25 yrs, Im ok with this one lasting another 25
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:08 PM
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Sorry not to pull away from your topic Adrian, but I was hoping to fit two 12 gallon tanks under the driver and passenger seats I just know the tanks have a small dent in the front corner to clear that frame piece. I'm wounding if I could dent in the other side for the driver side too.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:12 PM
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What dent are you talking about? Do you mean the angled corner? I dont think you'd be able to "dent" it in, its pretty stout material and about 2-3" of corner is "cut" off
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:40 PM
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What dent are you talking about? Do you mean the angled corner? I dont think you'd be able to "dent" it in, its pretty stout material and about 2-3" of corner is "cut" off
yup that angled corner that misses the frame outrigger. Does your have it on both sides? meaning you could use it under both the passenger and driver?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 08:40 PM
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The OEM tank will only fit on the one side, that's why I had the alum ones made by my buddy in the UK.

There also a larger for a bit more range and have both the corners angled to miss both the front & rear suspension mounts. I looked at using a OEM tank on the opposite side and it'll be a royal PITA to reshape it without using a sledge hammer !

You'll also need to add the mounts onto the rear bulkhead out rigger & get a front tank mount, grind off the welds, flatten it & bend it back the opposite way. Weld up & presto you have the opposite hand mount.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
I'm sure those tanks were a pretty penny, the proline replacement is about $300 shipped. Obvisouly there are advantages to an AL tank, but depending on the price point it might make more sense to go with a steel OEM replacement..


Way I figure it, if the steel one i just took out was good for 25 yrs, Im ok with this one lasting another 25
All depends if your buddy own's a race car shop & builds stuff out of alum all the time.... doesn't it
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Awesome looking work. A while ago some said that they had some tanks made up for about the same cost as OEM ones.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
All depends if your buddy own's a race car shop & builds stuff out of alum all the time.... doesn't it

Haha that would help!



As you mentioned, the tank I got only has the angled corner on one side. The lip or flange thats halfway between both halves is about 3 or 4 pieces of steel sandwhiched together, so bending them isn't an option.

Andy if you have CAD drawings could you email them to me as well? I have a friend who can TIG weld pretty well, and a neighbor with a sheetmetal shop. I'm thinking between the two of them I coul get something made up
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:47 PM
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Haha that would help!



As you mentioned, the tank I got only has the angled corner on one side. The lip or flange thats halfway between both halves is about 3 or 4 pieces of steel sandwhiched together, so bending them isn't an option.

Andy if you have CAD drawings could you email them to me as well? I have a friend who can TIG weld pretty well, and a neighbor with a sheetmetal shop. I'm thinking between the two of them I coul get something made up
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  #17  
Old May 4th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
FWIW - my tank started leaking exactly in the spot described in that link, a new on from RN was about $300 shipped.
Dave Bobeck did a fix years back and I had the same issue earlier this year.

Before you spend gas/tire money on a new tank, drill out the spot welds holding the skid to the fuel tank and remove it from the fuel tank.

If the rest of the fuel tank is in good condition then what you will most likely find are pinhole leaks in the bottom of the fuel tank where the skid meets the fuel tank. There is a cardboard mastic used by the factory to adhere the skid to the fuel tank. This absorbs water and rusts the tank from the outside in.

I had pinhole leaks. After cleaning and derusting the entire tank, I used 30 minute epoxy and fiberglass fabric and reinforced the bottom of the tank. I repainted the fuel tank and the skid, then riveted the skid back onto the fuel tank, then replaced the fuel tank into the truck.

It's been working like a charm ever since. It took about a week of my time, but only cost me $80 in chemicals/paint/parts to clean out and refurb the tank.

BTW - if you need to buy a new tank, British Pacific had them for $175 before shipping. If you're near them, I would give them a try first.

Ed
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Old May 4th, 2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Dave Bobeck did a fix years back and I had the same issue earlier this year.

Before you spend gas/tire money on a new tank, drill out the spot welds holding the skid to the fuel tank and remove it from the fuel tank.

If the rest of the fuel tank is in good condition then what you will most likely find are pinhole leaks in the bottom of the fuel tank where the skid meets the fuel tank. There is a cardboard mastic used by the factory to adhere the skid to the fuel tank. This absorbs water and rusts the tank from the outside in.

I had pinhole leaks. After cleaning and derusting the entire tank, I used 30 minute epoxy and fiberglass fabric and reinforced the bottom of the tank. I repainted the fuel tank and the skid, then riveted the skid back onto the fuel tank, then replaced the fuel tank into the truck.

It's been working like a charm ever since. It took about a week of my time, but only cost me $80 in chemicals/paint/parts to clean out and refurb the tank.

BTW - if you need to buy a new tank, British Pacific had them for $175 before shipping. If you're near them, I would give them a try first.

Ed
Great help, but i already splurged on a new proline tank from RN

After the prying and smacking I had to do to get the old tank out, I dont think i would have been able to "repair" it lol.

Its all in and works great, just took it out for a bit, filled her up and no issues whatsover. I'm planning some longer trips in the next year or two and the peice of mind of a brand new tank is worth the extra couple hundred for me..... not to mention it only took about 2 hrs total from start to finish.
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  #19  
Old May 4th, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Wow Andy those tanks look great. If its not too big of a deal would you also be willing to share CAD drawings with me? I need to do something with mine since it was half full of water and fuel and rather small. Thanks. jeffro3 at mac.com
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