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  #1  
Old October 8th, 2009, 04:23 PM
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Rich Campbell
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replacing front shocks...

Can anyone tell me step by step how I do this.


Thanks

Rich
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  #2  
Old October 8th, 2009, 04:39 PM
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Buy new shock towers if rotted at all, buy new retaining rings with 8 new lock nuts no matter what. Wait for these to arrive. Make sure you have a big pipe wrench or big channel locks or best pipe vice grips. Make use you have a 19mm (or is it 17mm) gear wrench.

1. Remove four screws holding little plastic covers on inner fenders.
2. Use 1/2in impact gun on full reverse to remove nut at the top of the shock
3. Curse step two when it does not work.
4. Grip shock with pipe wrench through the spring (wedge wrench against tire for leverage).
5. Remove bottom nut with gear wrench.
6. Curse step five when it does not work.
7. Sawzall off bottom nut.
8. Break four studs off retaining ring whilst trying to remove small nuts.
9. Sawzall off top nut.
10. Remove shock tower and shock.
11. Save used bushings and washers give to evilfij next time you see him
12. Making sure brake line is ok by turning wheel so caliper is closer into the frame, use jack between frame and radius arm to get spring extended to the point where you can remove the old ring with the aid of a prybar.
13. Insert new ring with aid of same prybar.
14. fit shock into tower.
15. Put tower into location.
16. Put bolts washers bushing etc. back on with lots of anti-sieze and waxyol on shock towers, ring etc.
17. Wait a while because it sucked so much
18. do other side.
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  #3  
Old October 8th, 2009, 04:54 PM
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Brad Harris
1994 d90 300tdi "Nola"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Buy new shock towers if rotted at all, buy new retaining rings with 8 new lock nuts no matter what. Wait for these to arrive. Make sure you have a big pipe wrench or big channel locks or best pipe vice grips. Make use you have a 19mm (or is it 17mm) gear wrench.

1. Remove four screws holding little plastic covers on inner fenders.
2. Use 1/2in impact gun on full reverse to remove nut at the top of the shock
3. Curse step two when it does not work.
4. Grip shock with pipe wrench through the spring (wedge wrench against tire for leverage).
5. Remove bottom nut with gear wrench.
6. Curse step five when it does not work.
7. Sawzall off bottom nut.
8. Break four studs off retaining ring whilst trying to remove small nuts.
9. Sawzall off top nut.
10. Remove shock tower and shock.
11. Save used bushings and washers give to evilfij next time you see him
12. Making sure brake line is ok by turning wheel so caliper is closer into the frame, use jack between frame and radius arm to get spring extended to the point where you can remove the old ring with the aid of a prybar.
13. Insert new ring with aid of same prybar.
14. fit shock into tower.
15. Put tower into location.
16. Put bolts washers bushing etc. back on with lots of anti-sieze and waxyol on shock towers, ring etc.
17. Wait a while because it sucked so much
18. do other side.


well done...
I think you did miss at least 8 steps of cursing and three steps of tearing the skin off your knuckles...
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  #4  
Old October 8th, 2009, 04:54 PM
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barry f
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Wow that is involved. I just ordered new springs and shocks for the 110 and was planning to do it soon. I only ended up ordering springs and not the retaining rings or nuts as they seem to look ok.

Anyone have any pics of the process for the front?
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  #5  
Old October 8th, 2009, 04:57 PM
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Odds are pretty good you will break at least one stud, but maybe with a cali car and some PB they will be ok.

Ron
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  #6  
Old October 8th, 2009, 05:04 PM
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barry f
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Ron if you were doing fronts and rears what would you order. My springs didn't go out yet so I can add to the order. I just picture doing this, breaking something then having to sit and wait for a part.
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  #7  
Old October 8th, 2009, 05:06 PM
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Two new heavy duty front rings and 8 lock nuts or nuts and washers or whatever. Also four spring isolators (if they make rear spring isolators for a 110).
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  #8  
Old October 8th, 2009, 05:27 PM
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barry f
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any links to spring isolators?

why do I need them?
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  #9  
Old October 8th, 2009, 05:36 PM
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Would you like me to fly out and do it for you too?



https://www.expeditionexchange.com/kit/

It is on this page, like I said I don't know if they make them for 110 width springs.
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  #10  
Old October 8th, 2009, 05:36 PM
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Marc
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I tink expedition Exchange has some options for isolators..(isolates road vibes better).
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  #11  
Old October 8th, 2009, 05:53 PM
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barry f
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actually yeah I would like you to fly out and do the work. You know I am going to call you when it's all apart anyway

Follow-up Post:

great link. I am going to get the Rover Genuine Parts Rubberized Shock Tower Securing Ring
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  #12  
Old October 8th, 2009, 06:35 PM
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Neil McCauley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
I tink expedition Exchange has some options for isolators..(isolates road vibes better).
Better make sure the rear springs push the truck up higher than the front before you mount them or else it'll ride funny.
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  #13  
Old October 8th, 2009, 06:47 PM
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barry f
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Was wondering that. I was thinking if I use the rubber shock tower securing ring in the front and the rubber spring isolators in the back it would be even.

Thoughts?
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  #14  
Old October 8th, 2009, 07:09 PM
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I'm sure that would be fine, probably not high enough to wreak any havoc on your drive or brake lines.
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  #15  
Old October 8th, 2009, 07:11 PM
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barry f
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Yeah it looks like a good way to kill road vibration. Not sure it makes a real difference though. Just one more thing to obsess about while I wait for my crap to be delivered.
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  #16  
Old October 8th, 2009, 08:05 PM
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Rich Campbell
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Shocks

Great post Ron! Think I will forget the shocks spend it on beer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Buy new shock towers if rotted at all, buy new retaining rings with 8 new lock nuts no matter what. Wait for these to arrive. Make sure you have a big pipe wrench or big channel locks or best pipe vice grips. Make use you have a 19mm (or is it 17mm) gear wrench.

1. Remove four screws holding little plastic covers on inner fenders.
2. Use 1/2in impact gun on full reverse to remove nut at the top of the shock
3. Curse step two when it does not work.
4. Grip shock with pipe wrench through the spring (wedge wrench against tire for leverage).
5. Remove bottom nut with gear wrench.
6. Curse step five when it does not work.
7. Sawzall off bottom nut.
8. Break four studs off retaining ring whilst trying to remove small nuts.
9. Sawzall off top nut.
10. Remove shock tower and shock.
11. Save used bushings and washers give to evilfij next time you see him
12. Making sure brake line is ok by turning wheel so caliper is closer into the frame, use jack between frame and radius arm to get spring extended to the point where you can remove the old ring with the aid of a prybar.
13. Insert new ring with aid of same prybar.
14. fit shock into tower.
15. Put tower into location.
16. Put bolts washers bushing etc. back on with lots of anti-sieze and waxyol on shock towers, ring etc.
17. Wait a while because it sucked so much
18. do other side.
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  #17  
Old October 8th, 2009, 09:20 PM
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It is really not that bad, you just need to ... ah ... be aggressive with it. I can probably do a front set in about 90min.
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  #18  
Old October 9th, 2009, 01:46 AM
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Dennis Lynch
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But you should really order the parts that Ron suggested. It sucks when you can't put it back together properly because of broken studs and shitty towers.
guess how I know.........
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  #19  
Old October 9th, 2009, 02:09 AM
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Gonna do my suspension soon...i'll need a spoon first to scoop the waxoil
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  #20  
Old October 9th, 2009, 11:04 AM
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John Crouse
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I borrowed a spring compressor from the local parts store and it made the installation a little easier.
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