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  #21  
Old October 9th, 2009, 12:36 PM
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Marc
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what size compressor?
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  #22  
Old October 9th, 2009, 04:39 PM
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John Crouse
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The one I borrowed had a big heavy bolt with hooks fixed on one end and on a sliding piece on the other. The hooks went around bends in the spring and then you tightened a large nut to pull the hooks togther and compress the spring. Looked like it would fit most car, light truck or SUV springs. See the attached picture.
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  #23  
Old October 9th, 2009, 05:14 PM
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steve
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you really don't need a spring compressor if you are going to change the springs.

If you take the weight of the front axle with a floor jack and remove front tire. Then jack up the same side with a highlift, just a couple inches (you could also use jack stands if it is easier for you). Now lower the floorjack which lowers the front axle, it will cause the spring to un seat and you can remove it.

if you are running longer springs you may need to use a bottle jack between the frame and axle to get force another inch of drop to get the spring out.

Watch your brake lines! If they are not extended you will have to remove the caliper. If you have not already notched the tab for the brake lines, this is a good time so you can remove the caliper with out draining the fluid.

BTW this works for the rear as well, but easier because of the lack of the central shock.
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  #24  
Old October 10th, 2009, 02:46 PM
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Eric Brown
1997 Arles SW
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So this might be a stupid question but...are changing the rear shocks, springs, mounts, etc... pretty much the same process? I plan to do everything at once. If its a lot different maybe Ron could post another step by step. Or maybe he could just fly out and do mine for me too!!
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  #25  
Old October 10th, 2009, 03:02 PM
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steve
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similar but easier because the shocks are outside the springs and the rear drops easier. just go for it, you got it.
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  #26  
Old October 10th, 2009, 04:40 PM
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barry f
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We might need a do it yourself shock day in socal
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  #27  
Old October 10th, 2009, 06:46 PM
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Eric Brown
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Thats not a bad idea. Where in LA are you located?
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  #28  
Old October 10th, 2009, 07:55 PM
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barry f
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I am in hermosa. Shoot me a PM we can meet up. Ordered springs, shocks, retaining rings, and bolts.
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  #29  
Old October 11th, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Rear springs are easy. The trick with them is to get the back end of the truck really high off the ground. I use really tall axle stands in front of the axle where the frame is lowest. I can do rears in about 45 min. Also, I would only disconnect the bottom of the shock as the top shock mount is known to sheer off (maybe 1/10 does, so if you live in CA you should be fine ).
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  #30  
Old October 12th, 2009, 12:45 AM
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barry f
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I would assume you disconnect both if you are doing new shocks with the springs. Bottom first, jack truck up, take the top off, then do the springs.
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  #31  
Old October 25th, 2009, 12:39 AM
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barry f
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Did the shocks and springs today. Replaced everything in the 110. Springs I went with genuine HD and for shocks I went bilsteins. Really had no major issues doing the job. It took me all day. I will post some pictures tomorrow. The truck is sitting so damn high now. My stock springs were so saggy and my shocks were ranchos. The truck rides so much better. I borrowed a spring compressor but didn't need it. I just used frame stands to hold the frame and had a jack under the axle. When it came time to remove the springs I let the jack out. My only issue was I bought new stud plates and the thread pitch changed from what was on my truck. No big deal except the new bolts that RN sent me were for the thread pitch that was on my truck. I had zero rust on the plates so I just reused them.
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  #32  
Old October 25th, 2009, 01:10 AM
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Nice work Barry. Congrats. I did not even get a phone call or email.
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  #33  
Old October 25th, 2009, 12:36 PM
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barry f
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Ron i am surprised you couldn't hear me cursing in PA

Follow-up Post:

Some pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryri...82612/sizes/l/ - truck is on an slight incline. Front really isn't higher
http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryri...82198/sizes/l/ - rear ride height before install
http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryri...38619/sizes/l/ - rear ride height after install
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  #34  
Old October 26th, 2009, 05:01 AM
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Neil McCauley
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You guys should check out the terrafirma shock tower stuff BP carries now. Real good prices.


Neil
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  #35  
Old October 26th, 2009, 09:59 AM
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Nick Vogel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user

Watch your brake lines! If they are not extended you will have to remove the caliper. If you have not already notched the tab for the brake lines, this is a good time so you can remove the caliper with out draining the fluid.

BTW this works for the rear as well, but easier because of the lack of the central shock.
Can you clarify? I didnt see a valve any where between the caliper, rubber brake line, and metal one.
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  #36  
Old October 28th, 2009, 09:25 AM
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Michael Bruzga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736
Can you clarify? I didnt see a valve any where between the caliper, rubber brake line, and metal one.
Who mentioned valve??
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  #37  
Old October 28th, 2009, 10:03 AM
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Skinny Pete
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dunno what you mean about the valve but for front axle work that requires caliper removal I just pull the bolts for the top swivel pin so I can take the flex line and caliper away without having to undo any brake lines. two easy bolts versus futzing around with flare nuts and flex hose ends and then having to bleed the brakes. your choice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736
Can you clarify? I didnt see a valve any where between the caliper, rubber brake line, and metal one.
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  #38  
Old October 28th, 2009, 05:32 PM
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barry f
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why do you have to mess with your brakes?
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  #39  
Old November 29th, 2009, 03:08 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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I'm getting ready to replace my springs...not very mechanically inclined...I've been reading all the threads on replacing the front springs. As far as the rear...do I need to undo the rear shock before I replace the rear spring or will it matter...thanks..probably a stupid ? j
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  #40  
Old November 29th, 2009, 03:41 PM
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John Crouse
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Yes, the rear shock needs to be removed or at least disconnected on one ed.
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