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  #1  
Old January 17th, 2013, 08:13 PM
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Replacing factory hardware...

Body bolts in particular. Anyone done this (besides a frame off?) My 130 has very little rust, at all. I have noticed some of the body bolts showing rust on the heads of the screws/bolts. I'd like to replace them with stainless hardware and was wondering if anyone had advice on where to look for replacements? Fastenal?

Is there anything more to look for when replacing them? I see some are Phillips head, some are set bolts with no notch. I enjoy digging into projects like this, and am hoping I don't eat my words once I dig into this one.

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old January 17th, 2013, 08:41 PM
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I believe tony brooks has a complete pdf listing on this site in his stainless hardware group buy thread. It's quite comprehensive and contains all the mcmaster carr part numbers.
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Old January 17th, 2013, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I believe tony brooks has a complete pdf listing on this site in his stainless hardware group buy thread. It's quite comprehensive and contains all the mcmaster carr part numbers.
Thanks, Ed.

Anyone have experience doing this? Unexpected obstacles?
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Old January 17th, 2013, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelbo View Post
Thanks, Ed.

Anyone have experience doing this? Unexpected obstacles?
You have to isolate stainless from aluminum or the aluminum will turn quickly to powder
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Old January 17th, 2013, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
You have to isolate stainless from aluminum or the aluminum will turn quickly to powder
Thanks.... Hence the nylon washers I saw in the kits, right? As long as the washers are present between on both sides, I assume I'm okay?

Thx
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Old January 18th, 2013, 01:24 AM
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I want. To do this as well. So me too <beavis laugh>
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Old January 18th, 2013, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelbo View Post
Thanks.... Hence the nylon washers I saw in the kits, right? As long as the washers are present between on both sides, I assume I'm okay?

Thx
Far from it. The nylon washers will generalyl help trap moisture in the joint which is the third component required to make a little aluminum eating battery.
Think about no metal to metal contact and liberal use of this http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor

Electrolytic corosion is no joke and I get SS fastemed rigs in the shop frequently that have had thousands of $$ in damage by well meaning owners (and shops.....that are supposed to be all "correct"etc).. SS has not been used for long in this application and I don't feel that it is a good use at all. Time is telling. Not saying dont do it, just use caution.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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Old January 18th, 2013, 05:46 AM
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In fact one of todays projects is to remove the rear door of a SW 90. All SS hinge screws from a "kit" (IDK who). All but two screws have friction welded (galled) two of them apparently during install as they are not even tight. They are fairly well covered in high temp (?) anti seize which really doesn't do squat in this situation.
This should take only a few minutes under normal circumstances. I'd be happy if I can get it done with no other damage in several hrs.
I know .....wah wah wah right.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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Old January 18th, 2013, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelbo View Post

Thanks, Ed.

Anyone have experience doing this? Unexpected obstacles?
Yes I did the full interior and exterior kit on my D90 from one of Tonys kits. I believe he sourced them from McMaster Carr. Took me a long time because I had several original bolts that were rusted and had to be drilled out. My side door hinges were a nightmare because of this. If the nut and nut holder clip on the inside is rusted and just spins you have to get creative because you can't get your hands in there. I would start spraying every bolt with PB blaster that you want to replace everyday until you start the project. And put a friend on standby for the hinges. Good luck!

Btw, I saw your old white D90 ST the other day. PRISTINE condition!
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Old January 18th, 2013, 07:42 AM
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If you can paint it after installed, however eliminating the bling factor, you take away the moisture component and reduce, not eliminate, the galvanic action. Also the better the ground, IE. connecting a aluminum panel to a bracket connected to the frame, the more you will have a problem with dis-similar metals. The steel bulkhead, B pillars are good choices for untreated SS. However the rear door hinges, as mentioned above, may not be as good due to the fact that an aluminum panel is sandwiched in between a steel backing plate and a steel, or cast, hinge.
Also all stainless is not created equal and always replace bolts with the same or greater strength rating.
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Old January 18th, 2013, 08:32 AM
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Man...

I'm glad I asked for the advice! I'm going to look into maybe having a steel hardware set zinc coated. To my understanding (which is slim), zinc is closer on the scale to aluminum, and will act as a protector. I'm going to do more research on this, but looks like stainless in out for me.

I don't care what the old timers (posters) say about this site... it's fantastic.



------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2013 08:34 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shep29 View Post
Yes I did the full interior and exterior kit on my D90 from one of Tonys kits. I believe he sourced them from McMaster Carr. Took me a long time because I had several original bolts that were rusted and had to be drilled out. My side door hinges were a nightmare because of this. If the nut and nut holder clip on the inside is rusted and just spins you have to get creative because you can't get your hands in there. I would start spraying every bolt with PB blaster that you want to replace everyday until you start the project. And put a friend on standby for the hinges. Good luck!

Btw, I saw your old white D90 ST the other day. PRISTINE condition!
Cool! I guess you saw it over at Rolf's? It was definitely a nice 90. Looking at the market on them... I left a lot of money on the table, but I paid the same for it, and it was needed in order to get my 130. Everyone ended up happy.
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  #12  
Old January 18th, 2013, 09:00 AM
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If you have a total boner for SS hardware (I will never use it on my trucks) then at lease use some Duralac or some similar compound to delay (not prevent) the onset of electrolytic corrosion.
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Old January 18th, 2013, 09:07 AM
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heck thats a good suggestion in general, I'm going to have to grab some of that!
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Old January 18th, 2013, 09:10 AM
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When I want to use stainless near aluminum I use clear rtv silicone on the alum sufrace as well as the stainless fastener. If you let the rtv harden on the alum surface before installing the fastener you have a barrier to keep out moisture
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Old January 18th, 2013, 09:20 AM
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Doug are you using any type of loctite when you do that? My first thought is that the bolt would back out...you know from when I run over parking blocks at the mall!
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Old January 18th, 2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
Doug are you using any type of loctite when you do that? My first thought is that the bolt would back out...you know from when I run over parking blocks at the mall!
Bill you have to use some sort of lube on stainless or the threads will gall. Tefgel is great and I use that on the boat but kind of pricey.
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Old January 18th, 2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
Bill you have to use some sort of lube on stainless or the threads will gall. Tefgel is great and I use that on the boat but kind of pricey.
I'll check that out. Thanks!!
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Old January 18th, 2013, 11:50 AM
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Another option would be to use armor coat bolts (also referred to a ultra corrosion-resistant bolts my McMaster Carr).
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Old January 18th, 2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jac04 View Post
Another option would be to use armor coat bolts (also referred to a ultra corrosion-resistant bolts my McMaster Carr).
That's what I'm looking for.

Thanks
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Old January 18th, 2013, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelbo View Post
Man...

I'm glad I asked for the advice! I'm going to look into maybe having a steel hardware set zinc coated. To my understanding (which is slim), zinc is closer on the scale to aluminum, and will act as a protector. I'm going to do more research on this, but looks like stainless in out for me.

I don't care what the old timers (posters) say about this site... it's fantastic.



------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2013 08:34 AM ------



Cool! I guess you saw it over at Rolf's? It was definitely a nice 90. Looking at the market on them... I left a lot of money on the table, but I paid the same for it, and it was needed in order to get my 130. Everyone ended up happy.
Yep, it was real clean. The engine compartment looked brand new!
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