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  #1  
Old March 24th, 2011, 06:53 PM
california
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Geoff M
97 D90 SW
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Replacing Belts and bonus question

So I have never worked on a car before in my life. I am enjoying figure things out but am really pretty useless as I start out. So far I have been amazed at what I have been able to figure out myself, with a lot of help from searching this board.

1. Recently I changed 2 belts. Successfully ridding myself of an annoying squeal. I had planned to replace all of them but the two on the right (alternator and ? see arrows) I had a hard time getting off. I loosened a lot of bolts and had no luck loosening the non-alternator belt. I figure it is a good idea to replace all these at once. Is that correct?

Any tips on getting these off?

2. Bonus Question:
When I got the truck the fan was not working. I found a melted fuse and connection (arrows in photo) When I replaced them the fan started working. Should I do more to find the original trouble that caused the melted connection and inline fuse?
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  #2  
Old March 24th, 2011, 07:48 PM
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Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by california View Post
1. Recently I changed 2 belts. Successfully ridding myself of an annoying squeal. I had planned to replace all of them but the two on the right (alternator and ? see arrows) I had a hard time getting off. I loosened a lot of bolts and had no luck loosening the non-alternator belt. I figure it is a good idea to replace all these at once. Is that correct?

Any tips on getting these off?
What did you loosen?

You will need to remove the water pump belt to get to the Alt and p/s belts

Yup, replace all of them at the same time.

p/s/ pump belt:
To change the p/s belt loosen the p/s bolts just enough such that p/s pump will pivot thus loosening the belt tension. When replacing the belt, wedge a piece of wood between the p/s pump bracket NOT the pump body and the engine block to provide tension and tighten the bolts.

Alt belt:
Loosen the tensioner bracket between the Alt and the water pump, this will loosen the belt tension...installation is the reverse.

Good luck...

Cheers...
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  #3  
Old March 24th, 2011, 07:56 PM
california
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Geoff M
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That helps. I think I did not understand I had to loosen the entire pump body.

So the wood will push the pump tight enough so that the belts are tight?

on the same topic (and since I have to take that belt off again...)

Do you have a trick to getting pulling down on the tensioner wheels to tighten the water pump belt? Or do you just lay under the truck and pull down with one hand and tighten the bolts on the tension wheel with the other hand?
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  #4  
Old March 24th, 2011, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by california View Post
on the same topic (and since I have to take that belt off again...)

Do you have a trick to getting pulling down on the tensioner wheels to tighten the water pump belt? Or do you just lay under the truck and pull down with one hand and tighten the bolts on the tension wheel with the other hand?
Tighten the tensioner pivot (AC and water pump belt) so that it is tight, but still can move if you tap it. Tap it into place to get the tension on the belt right, then tighten the cross bolt.

On the fan fuse:
Typically that means the fan blower motor is shot. The fuse controls the full speed function on the fan, without it you'll still have the lower settings. When the blower motor is running on full and then melts the fuse holder it means the fan motor is drawing too much and melts it down. The fan motors are NLA, but when the time comes you may be able to have it rebuilt.

When we do PS pump belts we pull the pulley off the PS pump. Those belts are really small and it makes it easier to get the belt on, then you set the tension as stated in the earlier post.
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  #5  
Old March 25th, 2011, 12:11 AM
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Geoff M
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That is helpful. Exactly the type of advice I was looking for. Since you guys have probably done this 100 times.

Bummer about the fan motor. I sort of figured something like that could be the case. Hopefully when it melts I can fix it somehow. I will search the site to see what others have done in the past.
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Old March 25th, 2011, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by california View Post
That is helpful. Exactly the type of advice I was looking for. Since you guys have probably done this 100 times.

Bummer about the fan motor. I sort of figured something like that could be the case. Hopefully when it melts I can fix it somehow. I will search the site to see what others have done in the past.
I have told you this over and over. Mike had told me the same thing about my AC. When I first got my 110 the AC fan only worked on high and that was it, the fans in front of the radiator were seized and the AC kept melting and blowing fuses. In the end I replaced the fan switch (really fun taking the whole dash apart to do), the relays, resister on top of the fan box, the fans on the truck and later on replacing the AC hoses and filling with r134 oh and the heater valve It still gave me problems and sometimes didn't want to turn on. If I had kept the truck I wanted to buy a second fan/heater box from a board member and have the fan and all the content rebuilt so I could swap one for the other.

The problem with the NAS fan/heaterbox is there is so much going into it unlike a 90 so taking it out is a real bitch. There are plenty of shops in LA that will do it but it is a costly job that involved NLA parts. I would look for a second fan/heaterbox to make perfect and wait for yours to crap out, then do the swap.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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Old March 25th, 2011, 03:17 PM
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Geoff M
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yeah Barry but cutting through the deep emotional damage you carry with regard to your climate control systems in your old 110 made it difficult to understand how it exactly applied to my truck. All the stamping feet, tears and hands waving around frankly scared me.

I agree with your idea about finding a heaterbox / fan, make it 100% and get it ready to swap.

What your talking about is that entire black box? everything we are talking about is in that thing?



anybody have one? Mike?
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  #8  
Old March 25th, 2011, 04:02 PM
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Yeah entire black box. You can't open it in place. Get a shop manual and learn about the insides. I am sure someone has one.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #9  
Old March 25th, 2011, 04:08 PM
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Yeah entire black box. You can't open it in place.
Yes you can. Thats how you change the heater core and such.



Yes, I have some take out units if you want one, all are used though.
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  #10  
Old March 25th, 2011, 04:14 PM
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barry f
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Damn opening in place. Didn't think there was room. Good to know for others for sure
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #11  
Old March 25th, 2011, 04:19 PM
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Damn opening in place. Didn't think there was room. Good to know for others for sure
It blows, but its doable. Otherwise things like changing the heater core and such would be stupid huge money.
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  #12  
Old March 26th, 2011, 12:48 AM
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Geoff M
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Originally Posted by ECR View Post
Yes you can. Thats how you change the heater core and such.



Yes, I have some take out units if you want one, all are used though.

This is good to know, thanks. Seem like I have to educate myself a bit as to the problem and what it would cost to go forward with dealing with a used one that likely has the same problems mine has.

Barry,
I have a shop manual.
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