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  #21  
Old November 24th, 2011, 01:18 PM
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Phillip
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Looks fine to me
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  #22  
Old November 24th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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mine leak too, probably due to pitting, i just keep them full of grease. it's worked for 6 years with np.
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  #23  
Old November 24th, 2011, 04:47 PM
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Awesome. Thanks guys. I thought so as well,but the engineer in me makes me think all things are bad.

Cheers,
Peter
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  #24  
Old November 24th, 2011, 10:15 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Sure do. Agree on all counts.
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer
Does anyone else have a garage computer lol? I dont know anyone else that does...but it just makes sense. Music, internet, forums, and not getting your nice machine all greased up....maybe its just me.
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  #25  
Old November 24th, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Jake K.
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That's not pitting...that's a factory blemish! Send those rusty pins back to George and tell him to give you your $$$ back. You don't need them. I bet you don't even need to shim your upper pins. Test your preload before you tear it down and see what the scale says. You may just need to fill your swivels with "one-shot" and repack your wheel bearings. Did you have crazy death wobbles before teardown?
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  #26  
Old November 25th, 2011, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverchef View Post
That's not pitting...that's a factory blemish! Send those rusty pins back to George and tell him to give you your $$$ back. You don't need them. I bet you don't even need to shim your upper pins. Test your preload before you tear it down and see what the scale says. You may just need to fill your swivels with "one-shot" and repack your wheel bearings. Did you have crazy death wobbles before teardown?
No death wobble, just wanted to do the bearings and I seem to make the job get larger. Got my shafts from Keith, wow. Those things are hardcore!

Yea the pins looked super, don't think I need them.

Factory blemish lol, good one!
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  #27  
Old November 26th, 2011, 03:03 PM
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questions round 2

A couple things with the project today:

1. caliper pot wont push back in to fit new pads. I noticed at first that one side was out much further than the other. Top right pushed back in with a c clamp, lower right will not. So I take it that means the caliper needs to be rebuilt or replaced?

2. Swivel pin preload. That write up I got was real good. But I got the 16lbs on the fish scale (one large shim) before I put the cv shaft back in and stub axle. It was a nice smooth pull, pretty easy to identify.
Now that all of that is assembled, it was up to 25lbs. So I put some shims back in, but the reading seems real spikey at 22ish and then more at like 12. There are 2 points (near full lock either side) where is seems to be peaking bad (sticky spots). Too much full lock?

So I put in the new shafts from Keith, do you think that they have a different resistance in them and will make a different reading? I am using brand new top pins and 4 shims as of now. Maybe drive it a bit and see what its like when things are broken in some?

Overall not a bad job to get into. Some things seem like they were thought out well when designed, some things not soo much lol.

Pete
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  #28  
Old November 26th, 2011, 06:31 PM
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If you replaced the pin did you replace the bearing/race? 15lbs is what I set mine with with the swivel empty, the CV should not cause much drag IMO. I leave the swivel seal "loose" when I set the preload. It is unusual that a "fresh" swivel would have any tight spots, mine was buttery smooth through the entire movement. I cleaned and greased the bearings also. Its not like a wheel bearing etc, and I wouldnt get to excited about it. WRT shims I started with all new shims added about 5 removed a couple added a few untill I was dead on 15lbs of pull. My steering is a lot tighter and doesnt "center" as well but I had 7lbs of pull prior to my rebuild and stupid amounts of shimmy.

With those pads I would install one side then compress pistons and install the other side and bleed the brakes at the end. I am a novice by all means but all of the above has worked for me and everything is still all happy about 800 miles later.
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  #29  
Old November 26th, 2011, 06:49 PM
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peter
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It was real smooth with out the cv shaft installed, very fluid. I did have the seal installed when using the fish scale...But I got a nice 16. I did put in new bearings for the swivel pins as well.

After I put everything back together and thought I'd test it again, it was really different. The cv added a bunch of resistance while pulling. And near full lock at either end there a spot that is more difficult but otherwise seemed fine. Not sure why, but that's all I can figure. I didn't test my pull before disassembly to get a baseline, but it was very easy to turn.

Thanks!
Pete
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  #30  
Old November 27th, 2011, 09:21 PM
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I took everything back down this evening and got the 1.5 ish kg with another shim. So....should be all good now. Geez it's not much pull...but one wouldn't think that much kg would feel like anything.
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  #31  
Old December 2nd, 2011, 01:46 AM
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bathroom caulk a common solution?

LOL. So after getting the drivers side all good I went into the passenger side tonight. Mostly event free. At first I was happy to see some fluid still in the swivel on this side. So after taking things apart and I get to the swivel seal...man its hard to get off. And only one of the plates on the back is there. Well ok, let's see whats going on. Well the ring came off and I saw this lol. and bent it up nicely too. hummmmm don't think thats stock. Also a nice bit of clear silcone on the bolts for the retained ring. Some one else's great idea looks like.

And we have pitting! So waiting on parts again. Ugh.

Pete
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