replacing 3.5L V8 rear main oil seal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 17th, 2008, 03:05 PM
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Charles Galpin
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replacing 3.5L V8 rear main oil seal

Can anyone confirm or deny that I need to pull the transmission to replace the rear main oil seal on a 3.5L V8? Mine's pissing pretty badly now, and the DEQ has moved it's status up to from "a bloody disgrace" to "environmental hazard".

thanks
charles
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  #2  
Old June 17th, 2008, 06:57 PM
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I don't know about a 3.5L, but on a 3.9L I believe the choices are to pull the motor or drop the tranny...


Keep us posted...

Cheers...
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Old June 17th, 2008, 07:22 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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You definitely have to pull it b/c it is behind the flywheel. You can pull the trans and transfer case together though.
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Old June 17th, 2008, 07:55 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ok thanks. Was secretly hoping it was a 2 piece that could be slide in from below with the oil pan and bearing cap off. Sucks to be me .

charles
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Old June 17th, 2008, 08:15 PM
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I've heard of stories where people cut the seal on top and try to get it in that way on series 2.25 motors but with some it still leaked. Only works on swivel balls apparently. It's a gamble at best.
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Old June 18th, 2008, 08:53 AM
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Sweet I'm not the only one to fail inspection this month.
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Old June 18th, 2008, 10:25 AM
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Well, one thing you can do is pull the pan and look up there to see what is really leaking. Usually it is actually the cross seals or crucifix seals leaking (same part but different people have different names for them); anyway, IIRC you can change those by just pulling the pan and bearing cap. You may want to pull the pan and take a look up there to see what is actually leaking before pulling the rest of it apart.
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Old June 18th, 2008, 10:39 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Tyler, nothing to do with inspection. It leaks so bad I have a circular drip line across my driveway into the garage

Andrew, if I remove the flywheel cover plate, would I be able to tell if its the cross seals? It's dripping badly enough that I can watch drops form as it idles. I have verified it's not coming off the back of the heads or anywhere else, but from inside where the bell housing meets the transmission.

I think I read on this board once that some manufacturers fix for leaks was a built in drip pan. Maybe I should just make a belly skid that doubles as a drip pan. Add a sump pump and I'd be all set. LOL.

thanks
charles
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Old June 18th, 2008, 11:51 AM
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just start carrying gallon jugs of oil. it won't hurt anything as long as you keep it topped off. easy enough to pull the front floors and propshafts, slide the trans back and do up the new seal. new clutch & t/o bearing while you are in there and you are back in business. there is no need to completely remove the trans from the car. much unneccesary work...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin

I think I read on this board once that some manufacturers fix for leaks was a built in drip pan. Maybe I should just make a belly skid that doubles as a drip pan. Add a sump pump and I'd be all set. LOL.

thanks
charles
Follow-up Post:

series rear main is split on top from the factory. that is the only way to get them on.

and you can't do them in situ even if you split them because the bearing cap is held in by the seal retainer which is only removeable with the flywheel and clutch off. so you have to split the gearbox from the engine.

chevy 350 and mercruiser/gm 3.0 rear main seals are identical and are a two piece and can be done with the engine and trans in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley
I've heard of stories where people cut the seal on top and try to get it in that way on series 2.25 motors but with some it still leaked. Only works on swivel balls apparently. It's a gamble at best.
did the latest round of swivel seals that way on my 109.
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  #10  
Old June 18th, 2008, 01:03 PM
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I didn't want to take the risk of leaking when I did my balls on my Series III so I just disconnected the steering rods and pulled the entire units on each side, bolted the seals back and put it back again.
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