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  #1  
Old August 9th, 2011, 09:43 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Repainting a D90

So my D90 has never been repainted and since it sat out in the sun a lot when owned by the previous owner much of the clearcoat on the car is coming off. I've noticed this on other Rovers of age, particularly on the hoods, and so I would also like to know what it is about Land Rover's clearcoats that makes them not last? Mainly I would like to know if there are any pointers anyone would like to give me regarding repainting a D90. I have experience in repainting steel bodied cars but not so much aluminum ones, are there any differences in applying the paint that I should be aware of? Is there a special kind of paint/primer I need to purchase. I plan on going with the original BRG, probably PPG. Lastly, there are some minor corrosion spots (around the rear corners and on the front/nose of the hood at the front corners) I believe it's from where the steel reinforcements rivet/etc. to the aluminum... the result is some small bubbles visible on the body and paint. The worst I believe seems to be right underneath where the roll cage mounts to the front fenders, right in front of the doors, the aluminum is slightly misshapen there. Can anyone give me any advice on what to do with those problem areas? Hoping I won't have to remove the front fenders or anything. I'm going to be replacing my front door hinges I think, they're too pitted to save and look good again I believe. And if repainting a D90 is something that should really be only carried out by a real pro (i.e. ECR) let me know; but then again I just don't have $1000+ to hand to some guy in a shop, I'd just rather spend the $300-400 on paint and do it myself. Thanks anyways you're advice is appreciated.
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  #2  
Old August 9th, 2011, 09:57 PM
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kkind of on the same boat with my 95 classic lwb, it was sold as british racing green, second owner had it painted white, it has been peeling for sometime showing the green.
two months ago, I was using a power washer to wash it and the left doors and quartel pannel lost the white paint to show some body work on the green.
so now I drive a two face car... left side is green right, top, front and rear are spotty white and green.
Im thinking of doing all the prep and sent it to maaco for a 300 $ job. just so it is one color..
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Old August 9th, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
I just don't have $1000+ to hand to some guy in a shop, I'd just rather spend the $300-400 on paint and do it myself. Thanks anyways you're advice is appreciated.
IMO, a cheap paint job is worse than old faded paint and a grand is likely to be just that.
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Old August 9th, 2011, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by grnrvrs View Post
IMO, a cheap paint job is worse than old faded paint and a grand is likely to be just that.
x2 a grand won't even cover the material costs,.....honestly.
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Old August 9th, 2011, 10:56 PM
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x3, I paid $800 for a paint job on my old disco. That was for cost. It still turned out like crap. A quality paint job is going to cost you at least $3k. Take it to a reputable body shop that routinely deals with high end cars. Call the LR dealership, Mercedes, Porsche, or whatever and ask who they send their cars to for body work. You'll hate a bad paint job worse than the current condition. Believe me...I did. I paid another several hundred dollars just to get another body shop that was reputable to clean up the cheap job i paid for.
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  #6  
Old August 9th, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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EWR:
I'm in the process of painting a 1975 Triumph TR6 right now, I've spent about $300 on some superior paint by PPG, not to mention the $150 spray guns, the $70 gallon of primer and thinner, hours of prep work including the masking, priming, the sanding b/w 400 and 600 grit. That's at least $520 of materials. Meanwhile body shops were quoting me anywhere from $2000-$2500 to do the entire job for me. It is not that expensive to paint a car yourself. You don't have to sacrifice a quality paint job in order to be cost effective if you are doing it right.
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Old August 9th, 2011, 11:46 PM
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If you can get quality paint for 300 and you have the skills/equipment/booth then, you have your answer. I just did/ had my 110 painted in pieces, color change and it took a lot of paint. There is a lot of surface area on a D, don't under estimate it.

If there is corrosion, you can 1) replace the panel 2) cut and patch 3) ignore it.

Good luck with your project.
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  #8  
Old August 10th, 2011, 06:48 AM
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Hmmmn....I paint probably a dozen Defenders / Series trucks a year and I've yet to get the materials down to under $1000 (usually more like $1200). All painted disassembled as they should be. The whole job comes in at least 6k, for the paint part.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #9  
Old August 10th, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Matt, how do you deal with the rivets?
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  #10  
Old August 10th, 2011, 07:00 AM
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As BMG, I just painted my Re-build Double Cab. It is white which is a pretty forgiving color. However I did paint the 90's top when I switched over to the NAS style top. It is green. Both turned out pretty well. I did both in the driveway, in the morning to get away from the afternoon bugs. As a kid I worked at a body shop to make extra money. He painted a lot of stuff out in the lot. A booth will give you a better dust free job but it you paint at the correct time of day, temperature, humidity you will do just fine doing it yourself. One thing I would suggest is to do a lot of coats so that if you get "orange peal", look, you can wet sand and then buff it out.
Prep work is the KEY when ever you are anybody else is going to re-paint any vehicle. That is one reason the Quicky Paint job companies do not have a good reputation. They have a tendency to paint everything and charge more for custom mixed colors. I went to the local Automotive paint supply company and got my stuff. I used a one stage paint and added the reducer and a high gloss hardener. I purchased a cheap spray gun, $14.00, from Harbor freight. It is by no means the best gun but did a pretty good job. Check the specifications on the guns to make sure that you do not have too much air pressure at the gun. Some of the more expensive guns do that themselves. I think I spent around $400.00 for everything when it was all said and done.
If you do not take care of those corrosion bubbles they will be back in a fairly quick fashion. You will be amazed at what damage has been done by the dis-similar metals. You will need to fill in the damaged metal. You have a bunch of options from Bondo to Red Lead. After using the filler and finished sanding you can use a dark color primer. It would be best to use the primer on the entire vehicle but it can get a bit expensive if you use a rattle can. You can use a primer in a large can but the inexpensive gun might not spray it. Always test the gun before spraying to make sure that you have a good pattern and the correct viscosity of the paint in the gun.
Re-painting is a lot of work to do it correctly, that is why it cost so much to get it done. You can do it yourself with a good outcome but the prep work is the key.
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  #11  
Old August 10th, 2011, 08:39 AM
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[QUOTE=kevkon;294829]Matt, how do you deal with the rivets?


The cappings and corners etc are generally coming off and getting galvanized, if it's painted capping's etc then the rivets get painted (the cappings still get removed and galvanized)
With the bonnet I paint the inside and re install the galvanized frame and then paint the outside so the rivets get painted.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #12  
Old August 10th, 2011, 09:59 AM
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I spent 450 just in materials to paint the seat box, floor panels, and tunnel to bulkhead filler piece. This did not take into account having the battery tray and tool box galvanized or the hardware needed to reassemble it. I did buy DuPont products and started with epoxy primer however I did not pay retail. 5 years ago I purchased a working body shop that had been in business since 1981 so I get a pretty good deal on products.

Throwing a Maco paint job on a 20-30k truck seems like false economy to me.
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  #13  
Old August 10th, 2011, 10:10 AM
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I found that a lot of cost differences comes from the level of sophistication of their equipment, insurance, taxes, disposal.
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Old August 10th, 2011, 11:11 AM
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maybe I should clarify I'm just interested in spraying the exterior surfaces, no seatboxes, floorpans, etc.
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Old August 10th, 2011, 11:32 AM
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The cost to do just the exterior side of my father spare tire engine hood was around $320. That was about half of what a bigger shop quoted me. From what I could tell they all (shops) worked from the same book (insurance) to work up an estimate. They cant just give you a figure for the one part or what ever have you. All I did was bring in the hood.
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Old August 10th, 2011, 11:39 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
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I think you need to take into consideration how you plan to use your 90. If you expect trail rash then a do it yourself job is fine. If you are painting with resale in mind then expect to pay for a quality job. For a cost estimate for a do it yourself job, I painted my Series IIa 88 (just the outside) with DuPont Urethane a couple of years ago for agound $375 in materials. As folks have said - prepwork is the key.
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Old August 10th, 2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
maybe I should clarify I'm just interested in spraying the exterior surfaces, no seatboxes, floorpans, etc.
That makes a difference. However, I have painted more than a dozen vehicles....300 for paint....I doubt it was "superior" as you mentioned. I've paid more than that for a gallon...

Whatever though, as others have posted the prep is EVERYTHING..... I have seen decent paint jobs that were done with PPG's lesser brand of OMNI.... but the prep work was spot on....so, take your time, and I'm sure it will look great. Good Luck!
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Old August 10th, 2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
maybe I should clarify I'm just interested in spraying the exterior surfaces, no seatboxes, floorpans, etc.
Only mentioned that as a comparison. The exterior of the vehicle will require more material than just the seat box.

In the end you'll get what you pay for.
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Old August 11th, 2011, 08:08 PM
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rob grentz
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how much paint does one need to paint a d-90? inside and out that is..??
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  #20  
Old August 12th, 2011, 09:01 AM
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I'm sure others who have done the entire truck can be more precise , but I just did the 2 front fenders and 2 ST doortops in AE primer and 3 top coats w/ HVLP gun and I went thru about a qt. Add to that the solvent, hardener, cleaner, fisheye eliminator, & reducer. Granted, there is more economy in doing more surfaces and at the same time.
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