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  #21  
Old August 12th, 2011, 09:30 AM
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A good 3 stage job will require some work.

If you are a $10B auto company with robots doing all the work and multiple climate and HVAC controlled booths, with all parts on an assembly line, you will be able to spray without any hand work.

In real life, you will have to wet sand and possibly buff each layer of a 3 stage (primer, base, AND clear) to the same level of finish you want in the final product. Most auto sprayers say inane things like "Don't wet sand the primer or basecoat." They're wrong. If you have the time, wet sand and buff every layer to a mirror finish that you can shave with.

I believe you could get the materials for a good 3 stage job on an entire defender (excluding stuff like the frame, spats and other internal ancillaries) for less than a thousand. Doing it yourself can save money. You can achieve a mirror finish with a $20 HF spray gun (I've done it before) it just takes time to get rid of surface imperfections.
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  #22  
Old August 13th, 2011, 02:39 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Thanks, good to hear some encouragement. I'm posting a pic of my TR6 I just painted myself just to show an example of my experience, I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, I went with a single stage deal, and hoping I'll have just as much if not more luck when I repaint my D90. I know the D90 doesn't need nearly as much body work as this car did, nevertheless I do appreciate any tips for my next project. For instance on the D90 my left rear quarter panel corner, right where the back and side panels rivet together, has a dent from when the previous owner backed into something. I imagine I'll have to straighten this out but after that I'm not sure if bondo is good for aluminum (?), I have a feeling it's not, maybe I won't have to use any there. Also does anyone know what the kind of paint LR used originally to paint these cars was made of? For instance my TR6 was originally done in acrylic lacquer, but I redid it in I think acrylic urethane.
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  #23  
Old August 13th, 2011, 05:52 AM
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Nicholas Orros
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BMGmotors, a question... Are you going to go with the original color (which is?) ?

Or something new? You have a soft-top so you may get out for under $1,000.00 USD.


Cool Thread...



Couldn't have come at a better time, as I just got a used 2004 Volvo V70 to replace my ailing Toyo Van, but she was a contender at one point haha... What I mean is, I had this crazy idea of restoring (and I almost did) a 1988 Toyota Cargo Van with absolutely no rust, just a lot of sanding. I couldn't agree with SORONOS more, he hit the nail right on the head.

In the attached pic, my friend who worked spraying for Maaco and myself did the van from start to finish in 44 hours (basically friday night til monday morning straight with sleep/food breaks but nothing else) and used SHERWIN WILLIAMS 7000 Series paint & clear coat. Couple/Few coats we'll say.

Soronos is right, you really need to spend about a thousand... And JUNKYDDOG11 is totally right because you'd need a good amount of paint to paint this truck right. That's why he has a price of $6k and a higher-end paint place in Tallahassee named Roslund's quoted me $7500 for high end Glasurit and removing the stock safari roof rack.

And to the original poster, I really liked the single stage Triumph... For that kind of money it is a great job. Just depending on what you want to do with the vehicle and your budget, etc. For me, I'm getting to a stage with my Defender where I don't get to go to many rally's and there's not much of a D90 community around here so I'm thinking of painting it and banging out a couple of dents and making it 'like new' in a sense. I took this sheet-metal shaping class in Sturbridge, MA from a guy called Wray Schelin and I learned a lot about straightening sheet-metal and aluminum. I want to strip mine down and repaint it from scratch.
I really like the Defender Rough edition that I think they're releasing in Germany that is white with a black roof and black wheels. So I'm going to attack mine hopefully within the next 9 months, and go with a Glasurit paint, black top and TRY to source those freaking black wheels I saw (actually in another post here) ... I have an INEST AWATA HVLP Sprayer that I haven't even used yet. We did a pretty good job with my buddy's equipment at Maaco that weekend, but what a shitty filtered booth, the owner is such a scumbag it's disgusting. I'm going to be better up hanging thin visqueen and a light fan.

In the end if you can get good some good coats of paint & clear and get it on the car without a lot of DIRT, you're good. A drip here or there can be buffed.


I will definitely be checking this thread out more.
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  #24  
Old August 13th, 2011, 09:24 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Yes the original British racing green metallic.
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