Removing the Steering Wheel - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old October 3rd, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
I'm officially a fan of the wheel puller approach but the puller bolt holes are pretty small and fine threaded - I wonder of the kit has the right size. Can you check Greg?
Charles,

My wheel puller will work. I have used it several times on a stock D90 steering wheel.

Greg
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  #22  
Old October 4th, 2007, 08:03 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Cool, maybe we can just do it real quick next time we have a 101 wrenching party.

charles
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  #23  
Old October 6th, 2007, 10:30 PM
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John Crouse
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D110 Steering Wheel

Hey Andrew. I'll sell you my old one cheap if I can get the new one on this weekend. How's $35 sound?
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  #24  
Old January 16th, 2011, 09:15 AM
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Steve Bartley
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So- I read through this thread to figure out the best method to remove my steering wheel- and after a few hits with a hammer...i opted to for buying a steering wheel remover. Of course....after I opened the package... I realized that the bolts were the wrong size. (typical). A few hits of PB Blaster and two hits on either side of the wheel with a hammer - popped right off.
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  #25  
Old January 16th, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Dana Hammersley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuffer View Post
It's not a good idea to hit two steel hammers together. Since they are both hardened surfaces they often break into sharp pieces moving at high speed.
You must work for OSHA lol
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  #26  
Old January 16th, 2011, 11:16 AM
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barry f
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I made my own puller. Total ghetto but a piece of flat bar metal. Drilled two holes. Put it over the center. Tightened a bolt through each hole and it came right off. Of course I didn't put The wheel back on straight but that is a different issue.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #27  
Old January 16th, 2011, 03:59 PM
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Steve Bartley
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dang it

I think I can rig something up for the one I bought, it was only $16, so Im not heart broken. While I was at it i took the column apart and found out that the headlight switch that I just about ordered was perfectly fine, the retaining nut popped off. It works good as new now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I made my own puller. Total ghetto but a piece of flat bar metal. Drilled two holes. Put it over the center. Tightened a bolt through each hole and it came right off. Of course I didn't put The wheel back on straight but that is a different issue.
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  #28  
Old November 12th, 2011, 01:16 AM
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Brett
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where did i go wrong...

my wheel will not move. wd40. double-hammer with knees technique, smacking the life out of the back with rubber hammer, crazy juggling in every direction... nothing.

sadly my "build your own ghetto pullers" skills are clearly not as strong as barry's.

i tried to make my own puller... three of them; all documented in the attached picture.

granted, the first one was a bit optimistic, but v3 was pretty strong... but no movement at all, just trashing of my ghetto pullers.

before i go buy a real puller, or break out the sawzall... any other words of wisdom?
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  #29  
Old November 12th, 2011, 09:51 AM
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barry f
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Amazingly ghetto. Why bother with the center bolt?

Mine was a flat piece of metal with two holes. Just cranked bolts through each hole into wheel with the center of the plate over the main wheel bolt. Do it slowly, alternating tightening and the wheel will pop
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #30  
Old November 12th, 2011, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Amazingly ghetto. Why bother with the center bolt?
the only right sized bolts i had for the puller-holes were philips-heads, which would be hard to crank... and i was feeling too lazy to run to home depot. figured the center-bolt would mimick a puller-design... doesn't seem like it should need THAT much force though... i'll go get some hex-heads and try again...
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  #31  
Old November 12th, 2011, 02:36 PM
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barry f
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Without the hex heads it won't work. Some people don't need the puller but I have never been able to remove one without it
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #32  
Old November 12th, 2011, 05:39 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Without the hex heads it won't work. Some people don't need the puller but I have never been able to remove one without it
Loosen the big centre bolt but don't take it right off. grad hold of the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, rock the steering wheel whilst pulling firmly upwards. Leaving the centre bolt on prevents you smacking the wheel into your face when it suddenly breaks free. Never failed me. I do have a home made puller and it does have a centre bolt that pushed down o the column. If the wheel is really stuck I'd use the puller and pull too.
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  #33  
Old November 13th, 2011, 02:02 AM
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Brett
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done. took some lump-hammer persuasion in addition to a barry-style "two-bolts and a plate puller".
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  #34  
Old October 15th, 2013, 09:33 PM
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Chad Manz
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What size are the bolts needed to thread into the steering wheel?
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  #35  
Old October 16th, 2013, 04:06 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azarmadillo View Post
What size are the bolts needed to thread into the steering wheel?
M6 I think.
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  #36  
Old October 16th, 2013, 04:37 PM
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Chad Manz
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I got lucky and the first bolts I tried fit. If anyone wants to know the size, I'll check them next time I'm at the hardware store.
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