Removing Front Timing Cover '97 D90 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 16th, 2014, 08:04 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Removing Front Timing Cover '97 D90

Hey so I am trying to remove my front timing cover to inspect my oil pump and install a oil pump rebuild kit which I already have. I am to the point where I am about to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Can anyone tell me if I really need the special LRT-12-030 to remove the pulley bolt and which direction (i.e. counterclockwise) it comes off in?
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  #2  
Old May 16th, 2014, 08:16 PM
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Oil pump rebuild on a gems engine ?

Crank pulley bolts will usually come of with a good impact capable of 400ft lbs or so. Never had one not come out.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 08:32 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Oil pump rebuild on a gems engine ?

Crank pulley bolts will usually come of with a good impact capable of 400ft lbs or so. Never had one not come out.

Ya, I've been having issues with my oil light staying on especially on really cold starts. New oil pressure sender too.

------ Follow up post added May 16th, 2014 07:35 PM ------

Does the crankshaft pulley bolt come out clockwise or counterclockwise? Just want to make sure I'm torquing it the right way.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 09:03 PM
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Counter clock to remove
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Old May 16th, 2014, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
Ya, I've been having issues with my oil light staying on especially on really cold starts. New oil pressure sender too.

------ Follow up post added May 16th, 2014 07:35 PM ------

Does the crankshaft pulley bolt come out clockwise or counterclockwise? Just want to make sure I'm torquing it the right way.
Bummer. Have you tried pulling the pan ? I had a 96 disco (same engine) where the light was flickering and there was some very fine varnish flakes on the oil pickup screen. I hit it with carb cleaner and dissolved it and cleaned out the pan and never had another issue. Another thing to do is pull a bearing cap or two and plastigauge them.
Stuff is available everywhere including Vatozone.

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
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Old May 16th, 2014, 11:25 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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well after many hours I finally got to see that there is nothing visibly wrong with the oil pump gears or the gear retaining plate. So I'm still wondering what is causing my oil light to stay on for up to 1 minute or more on cold starts. Guess I'll put my new gears anyways, and re-install everything tomorrow.
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  #7  
Old May 21st, 2014, 12:07 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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So to follow up; I replaced my oil pump gears with the new version from AB and thoroughly cleaned the inside and outside of the timing cover. I wondered about the possibility of an issue with the pressure relief valve; I started to try and remove the valve but it was pretty stuck in there. I proceeded to check that the valve was operational and not stuck by pushing it in and out with a screw-driver like object so I knew that was not the issue. Packed the oil pump gears with lubriplate engine assembly lube and refit timing cover/water pump/fan/radiator/sump and filled with new 10/40 synthetic. Started the engine and took a couple seconds for the oil light to extinguish so it could prime, started a second time and the oil light extinguished in a second or less. Now every time I start the truck the oil light goes off in at least a second.
I had done quite a bit of research online on various Rover V8 oil pressure issues which led me to expect either some cracks in my oil pump gears or dislocated timing cover locating pins; and I didn't find either of those.
I noticed some score marks and wear on the old gears and retaining plate but certainly not cracks in any of the rings. I was surprised to find no fracturing of the outer ring because my oil light would stay on for up to 20-30 seconds sometimes. One shop even told me that my Mahle oil filters were somehow causing the issue and suggested OE LR filters as well as some Lucas additive. Could it be that the wear alone on the old gears caused the pump to drain oil more easily after long periods of sitting causing almost a 'no prime' situation when I started it again next?
Anyways glad I got that figured out.
Here's a picture of my engine with the oil pan removed for your enjoyment.
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  #8  
Old May 21st, 2014, 12:23 AM
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your problem was more likely an old timing cover gasket than the gears. The lack of a seal between the block and pump cover allows the pump to lose its prime. Don't ever put RTV on this gasket.
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Old May 21st, 2014, 12:30 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf View Post
your problem was more likely an old timing cover gasket than the gears. The lack of a seal between the block and pump cover allows the pump to lose its prime. Don't ever put RTV on this gasket.
I have a new 4.6 with my original 4.0 timing cover and I think the mechanic who did the swap replaced the gasket. I noticed the new gasket came with an rtv-like substance on one side of it. Why do you say do not put rtv on this gasket?
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Old May 21st, 2014, 06:56 AM
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It can create voids around the oil seal and you lose prime.
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