Removing fender dents - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old March 11th, 2010, 11:26 AM
aosias's Avatar
aosias
Status: Offline
Alexandra
1995 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,348
Registry
Removing fender dents

I have dents in each outer fender that I have been trying to get removed. The paintless dent folks so far won't touch them. One I can understand, the other doesn't seem that hard to fix. I've been to one auto body shop and it was pricey- even if I did the remove/replace.

The one from the right fender is hard to see, it's bent but there is no crease or paint damage. I really just want my flare to fit correctly on this fender. The left fender paint is damaged.

Any ideas on removing either of these? My initial thoughts are to remove the right outer fender and beat it from behind with a rubber mallet. Or to pull on it with the fender attached to the truck. I'm not expecting perfect results, just some improvement.

Thanks,
Alex
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TCO_020710_592.jpg
Views:	249
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	25676   Click image for larger version

Name:	TCO_020710_589.jpg
Views:	225
Size:	49.2 KB
ID:	25677  

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old March 11th, 2010, 11:41 AM
GYM's Avatar
GYM
Status: Offline
Gary
97 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: West Coast
Posts: 1,062
Quote:
Originally Posted by aosias View Post
The paintless dent folks so far won't touch them.
Why is that? ...because it is aluminum?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old March 11th, 2010, 11:52 AM
aosias's Avatar
aosias
Status: Offline
Alexandra
1995 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,348
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by GYM View Post
Why is that? ...because it is aluminum?
I believe so, they just say they can't get them out.

he round one with the paint damage I can see would be hard to get out but it's not like they are going to ruin the paint. The bend in the right fender I would think they could do. Especially since the flare is off.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old March 11th, 2010, 12:06 PM
woldd90's Avatar
woldd90
Status: Offline
Scott
1997 D90 ST #1444
Site Team
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 5,329
Call your dealer and find out who they use... It can be done, it just takes time.

I would go to harbor freight and pick up their body hammer kid for $25.00 and take the outer fender off and work on it yourself.
__________________
Scott

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old March 11th, 2010, 12:29 PM
FlaD90's Avatar
FlaD90
Status: Offline
Tom
1994 ST D90
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: West Palm Beach, Fl, USA
Posts: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by GYM View Post
Why is that? ...because it is aluminum?
Garth is correct, it only stretches and will never get back to original shape like regular sheetmetal.
You can however get it close, but then fill it with body filler.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old March 11th, 2010, 12:53 PM
Oxcart13's Avatar
Oxcart13
Status: Offline
Mark M
D110
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 393
Alexandra - call Larry or Lisa at Arapahoe Collision & Mechanical. They've pulled dents on two of my Defenders, and several others that I know of. Mark
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old March 11th, 2010, 01:35 PM
TDI Guy's Avatar
TDI Guy
Status: Offline
Randy
2015 LR4
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,573
Registry
they will compound out.....
__________________
Legend in My Own Mind.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old March 11th, 2010, 03:41 PM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
Buy two new fender skins for $120 each and have them painted. Or, take the skins off and take them to a body shop.

The skin metal is very soft. You might even try picking up a cheap hammer and dolly set from Harbor Freight and massage the dents out. It's not that hard.
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old March 11th, 2010, 03:56 PM
TDI Guy's Avatar
TDI Guy
Status: Offline
Randy
2015 LR4
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,573
Registry
When front outers get dented, I just replace them... Like Jonathan said. Its cheaper
__________________
Legend in My Own Mind.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old March 11th, 2010, 04:31 PM
KevinNY's Avatar
KevinNY
Status: Offline
Kevin Buckley
1973 coiler
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Guilderland,NY
Posts: 1,460
I just paint over the dent.
__________________
'73 SeriesIII coiler,"The Goat", Daihatsu 2.8TD,Santana,Ashcroft,ARB's,etc., now SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old March 11th, 2010, 07:59 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,624
Registry
I just leave the dents My daughter added a new one this weekend - if I had been anal and fixed the others I'd be pissed. Instead I smile
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old March 11th, 2010, 10:07 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Actually, if anyone could find the pics of Trevor's yellow 109 ( the rear right tub was pushed almost 10" as well as the rear corner panel) and this is how it looked after it was corrected and repainted.

All done with Heat and old fashion body work, it did not crack, and was streched back to perfect smooth finish
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	tubfixed.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	69.8 KB
ID:	25685  
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old March 11th, 2010, 10:19 PM
aosias's Avatar
aosias
Status: Offline
Alexandra
1995 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,348
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I would agree. Just leave it. Unless you are the type to armor-all the tires, then just replace the skins.

-Jeff
Not the tires, just the dash and Armor All is gross, have a much better dressing for my truck

Thanks for the ideas. I am leaning towards getting the right one out myself and getting a new left outer skin and having it painted. Should be easy enough.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old March 12th, 2010, 12:17 AM
jaygoss's Avatar
jaygoss
Status: Offline
Jay Goss
'60 Series II Station Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 363
There's a place in Louisville called SVC- or SBC. They apparently are very good at aluminum repairs and do a lot of work for Land Rover Flatirons.
__________________
1960 Series II 88" SW
1994 D90 ST Arles Blue (sold)
1963 SIIa SWB (sold)
1971 SIIa SWB (sold)
2000 Disco SII (sold)
1995 RR Classic SWB TWR edition (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old March 12th, 2010, 01:18 AM
crown14's Avatar
crown14
Status: Offline
Verticalscrote
Volkswagen Super Beetle
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: 44 Nas Row, Inter Net, USA
Posts: 3,285
Registry
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old March 12th, 2010, 01:42 AM
ajh
Status: Offline
Andrew J. Hutton
1993 Defender 110 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 735
You can also get the outer wings in GRP now which is a lot more dent resistant.
__________________
--

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Parts & Accessories Imported Weekly

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Like us on Facebook for a discount on parts!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Handmade Soap ideal for Mechanics!
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old March 12th, 2010, 01:42 AM
Davis's Avatar
Davis
Status: Offline
Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,500
The place in louisville is SVC--they do great work. I would always recommend them. When I built my 90, I (like a lot of you) wanted to do everything myself so I learned body work in general and then aluminum body work. Big dents, small dents, you name it, my used panels had them. You can definitely work body panels--similar techniques as steel in that you can use a hammer and anvil, but different techniques in how the aluminum reacts. Unlike steel, you don't "pop" dents out the same, oil canning is different, when working steel you can ease and relax it and even shrink it and that just doesn't work with aluminum. You can absolutely hammer aluminum, but you do it softer as anytime you hit it, you thin it so there is no "shrinking" dents per se, but you can relax them close to shape. I even removed a few. I cracked one spare piece to see how to crack it, but other than that, I never cracked a panel. My usual technique was to slowly work it back into close shape and then use aluminum filler (All metal) to smooth it the heck out and then prime/paint. I tried heat/dry ice and that works for some particular situations but very few and it is more of an art. Large sections of panel, like your door panel, don't try and be a hero---trust me that those are the worst. You try and work them but every thing you do makes them thinner--hence more material and they end up doing the push-in one way, pop-out the other thing--very frustrating. Good luck correcting that one, Einstein. Don't overwork aluminum. It does not like high heat. It does not forgive being hammered hard--at all. It can be filled--if you are close, fill it and sand it down. All you dentless guys--yes, you can remove them, but not with a hammer--more like a heavy palm of your hand on the inside and your other hand on the outside (can be anvils too) and relax it with human power--works MUCH better. My best repairs have still been with my knuckles in leather gloves. Couple panels attached. If you have particular questions, just PM me. The front dent is a gonner--push it out close, fill , move on. Personally, I would leave it and paint it something really cool with an air-brush.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Prep and paint 001.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	107.9 KB
ID:	25687   Click image for larger version

Name:	new paint2 001.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	25688  

Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old March 12th, 2010, 04:25 AM
rovertrader's Avatar
rovertrader
Status: Offline
Dale
Tithonus 110, D-90, 109 S/T 5-door
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Marshville, NC USA
Posts: 4,625
Alex- just an fyi- buy the blanks and cut the holes for the cage. NAS outers = $350+/- and blank $120... I would buy a spare set, leave these as they are til it drives you nuts, then replace them both after they are really beat up. Don't think the dents won't happen any more, 'cause they are aluminum after all.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old March 12th, 2010, 08:01 AM
ajh
Status: Offline
Andrew J. Hutton
1993 Defender 110 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 735
There are more varieties but $90+shipping gets you something that will bounce back a bit if hit.

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFE...ir_intake.html
__________________
--

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Parts & Accessories Imported Weekly

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Like us on Facebook for a discount on parts!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Handmade Soap ideal for Mechanics!
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old March 12th, 2010, 10:26 AM
aosias's Avatar
aosias
Status: Offline
Alexandra
1995 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,348
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertrader View Post
Alex- just an fyi- buy the blanks and cut the holes for the cage. NAS outers = $350+/- and blank $120... I would buy a spare set, leave these as they are til it drives you nuts, then replace them both after they are really beat up. Don't think the dents won't happen any more, 'cause they are aluminum after all.
At the nuts point. I just did the seat trims and have been cleaning the paint for literally 2 months. I think I have it as clean and shiny as I can for a D90 that has been out of the garage. It's really starting to look good again. Just waiting on the new rear bench trim and to repair some holes in the dash front switches the PO installed. Finish the SS hardware, install the AC (2 years later) and I should be able to leave it alone! HA- I doubt that.

These and the corner piece are the last of the exterior. Bumper, tire carrier and light bar should be back from PC next week. When I looked at RN they showed the NAS D90 for $129 + shipping- I guess that is the blank. I would assume the paint shop would be able to cut the cage holes based on the old panel correct? I'm not too great at cutting holes, boards, things that involved a saw tend to be measure 5 times and cut 10 times. I haven't taken the fender off, just the flare so I wasn't sure if it was one big hole for the cage or 4 smaller holes just for the bolts.

Alex
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
vin

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing LH wing / Fender on '83 for bulkhead footwell repair... turbodave Defender Technical Discussions 5 May 25th, 2009 04:16 PM
removing dents from d 90 doors ttrover Defender Technical Discussions 8 February 5th, 2007 03:17 PM
D90 Passenger Front Fender (patch) ToyCrusher Wanted 4 February 25th, 2005 10:24 AM
Original Front Left flat black plastic fender McIntosh Wanted 3 January 18th, 2005 10:55 PM
Removing LE Checker plate - Need help removing killer adhesive JimC Defender Technical Discussions 4 December 6th, 2004 07:24 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:58 AM.


Copyright