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Removing Faulty Ignition Switch - It's STUCK

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switch vin
33K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  Shagey71  
#1 ·
My ignition switch fell apart into multiple pieces inside my dash. It looks like the glue inside failed when the temperatures hit 105+ degrees a few weeks ago. The only piece still left inside the key/steering-lock cylinder is the metal base to the ignition switch. I have tried everything: small needle nose pliers, a long flat head screw driver, etc. It just seems confusingly STUCK in there.

I have already replaced the ignition switch with a new one, and reconnected all of the ignition switch wires to the new piece. I can start and drive the car by undoing the steering lock with the key in the ignition, and turning over the new ignition switch with a flat head screw driver to turn it on. I have to wear pastel-colored shirts so that people don't think I'm stealing the car.

I have removed the small screw that secures the ignition switch to the key/steering-lock cylinder, so it is not that.

pics of the new ignition switch vs. what I saw when I took out the dash to replace:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showpost.php?p=231832&postcount=22

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Pic 1) A picture of what I saw when I unscrewed the dash. This is the ignition switch plug that failed.
Pic 2) A picture of what was left of the base of the ignition switch. All of the plastic you see has since fallen out of there, so all I am left with is the stuck metal base of the ignition switch.

COULD HAVE BEEN SUCH AN EASY FIX.
 

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#6 ·
Yup, 180 from the one you can see.
I never try to do those in the car. I drill the safety bolts and remove the entire column lock assmebly. In the long run it takes way less time than dicking around in the tight space behind the dash.

Don't let the little silver key-way thingy on the end of the ignition lock fall down in the dash, and don't forget to put it back in (it goes in the place where you are using the screwdriver now).
 
#7 ·
Thanks again, Mike.

Yeah, this would have been much simpler had I just been able to get the shear bolts around the steering column out with a punch or stud extractor (or drilled them out) and worked on this out in the open. Hopefully I won't have to be back in here any time soon.

Do you always replace them with shear bolts again for anti-theft? Everything in there is built for anti-theft, but it's pretty funny how easy it was to get the truck going with a phillips head and a flat head screw driver.
 
#9 ·
If you can't get power to the truck to use a dremel a small hacksaw could probably be used to slot the head.
 
#11 ·
yay- I finally got to try my hand at this job.
I did the Dremel method...cut some slots in the heads of the shear bolts to fit a flat screwdriver.
The hacksaw method renders the bolts unusable.


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#12 ·
#21 ·
My truck came to me with a jumper wire to a momentary SPST toggle mounted to the dash frame. You could start the truck without a key, but you couldn't steer it ...:facepalm::question:question

Now I'm wiring in the V8 trying to decide what to do for IGN/RUN / ACCY / STRT circuits off of the current setup, or replacing the whole thing with the $300+ v8 unit. I may use the current ignition just as a steering lock and power lockout, then run a push-to-start relay bank off of the back of a MUD console or something...