Removing Door Hinges - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 2nd, 2008, 04:21 PM
everglades
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Nando Zorrilla
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Removing Door Hinges

How do you remove the lower door hinge from a D90. I have new hinges painted and ready and got the door off, but no idea how to get to the back of the hinge bolts.

Are there captive nuts on the back?
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  #2  
Old April 2nd, 2008, 04:29 PM
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Dennis Lynch
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Unscrew them. Yes, there are captive nuts on the back
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  #3  
Old April 2nd, 2008, 04:53 PM
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Nando Zorrilla
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Any tips or tricks? No screw on my truck has ever come off without breaking.
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  #4  
Old April 2nd, 2008, 05:10 PM
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Paul Dandini
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Impact Driver with the proper size screw bit.
I think it's a #4 Pozidriv
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  #5  
Old April 2nd, 2008, 05:17 PM
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Dennis Lynch
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I took the correct size screwdriver and clamped a vise grip on to it. Then I put the screwdriver in the screw and pushed in on the screw as hard as I could. Then with the vise grips, I try to rotate the screw out. It worked for me.

Good luck.
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  #6  
Old April 2nd, 2008, 09:11 PM
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Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynchee
I took the correct size screwdriver and clamped a vise grip on to it. Then I put the screwdriver in the screw and pushed in on the screw as hard as I could. Then with the vise grips, I try to rotate the screw out. It worked for me.

Good luck.
I used the same trick. Hard part was replacing the captive nuts behind (without dropping them). One's still down there somewhere...
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  #7  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 12:52 AM
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evilfij
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Take the #4 posi or whatever it is and put it in a half inch air gun. Push as hard as you can and hit the trigger and pray.
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  #8  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 02:11 AM
minorthreat
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Lance
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I took a small ratchet w/ a 1/4" drive and put a 1/4" socket on it. Then I put the #4 Pozi bit in there and cranked away w/out much trouble. PB blaster beforehand helped.
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  #9  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 06:44 AM
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Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest
Hard part was replacing the captive nuts behind (without dropping them). One's still down there somewhere...
I thought I was the only one.
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  #10  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 07:01 AM
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Paul Dandini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest
I used the same trick. Hard part was replacing the captive nuts behind (without dropping them). One's still down there somewhere...
If I recall, I think I tied thin string to the captive nut and was able to pull it back up when/if it fell.
When the bolt was screwed in the string was cut.
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  #11  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 09:08 AM
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Will
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmd
If I recall, I think I tied thin string to the captive nut and was able to pull it back up when/if it fell.
When the bolt was screwed in the string was cut.
Now that's smart!
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  #12  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Chris Snyder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmd
If I recall, I think I tied thin string to the captive nut and was able to pull it back up when/if it fell.
When the bolt was screwed in the string was cut.
Mm I did that after I dropped the first one in there
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  #13  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 01:03 PM
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Robert Bees
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Dumb question, but I thought a 'captive nut' was one that was fixed on the other side from the bolt so that it didn't fall off ? Am I missing something ?
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  #14  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 01:27 PM
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Will
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They're sometimes called caged nuts.
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  #15  
Old April 3rd, 2008, 11:55 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Yeah, it uses square nuts that fit inside a sort of J-nut. It basically just clips around the sheet metal of the bulkhead like a U-nut or J-nut but it holds a separate square nut rather than the bolt screwing directly into the clip.
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  #16  
Old April 4th, 2008, 03:17 AM
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Paul S.
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Use PB Blaster penetrating catalyst first to soak the bolts and wait a while. Let it do the work for you. #4 pozidriv on a socket was all I needed and mine were rusted really bad.

I also have a cage nut stuck down there somewhere as well. I bought one of those magnet retractor thingies, but only after I had the hinge back on. Screw it, its there for good.

I bought the MUD UK stainless kit from EE. Any idea why they would go with different thread spacing as opposed to the original? Could have just used the cage nuts that were there anyway if they were the same.

P~
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  #17  
Old April 4th, 2008, 03:58 AM
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Jim Cheney
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When I've put stainless kits together, I've gotten 5/16" bolts because 8mm in the correct length for the doors is hard to find (costly), and I couldn't find 8mm stainless in pozidrive at all. 5/16 is within hundredths of 8mm, and the only difference is thread pitch, so if you replace both the nut and the bolt, then it works great.

If its a DIY, order both 5/16 bolts and 5/16 square nuts and just change out the nuts in the stock "j" retainers. Its better to order the ones for the door a bit long and cut them off. I also like to use nyloc nuts on the door side.
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