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  #1  
Old May 28th, 2008, 07:00 AM
D90DRC
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D Cantrell
1997 D90SW
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Remove Inner wheel arches

I'm trying to preserve my rapidly rusting D90... I want to get the inner wheel well tubs galvanized. How difficult is it to remove the tubs? It looks like once the eyebrows are off there are 2 lover nuts and 4 screws that hold it in place. I also noticed a few bolts holding brackets washer bottle on the inner. I dont want to rip the wings and bonnet off. That being said will it be able to be removed with relative ease?

Thank you
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  #2  
Old May 28th, 2008, 12:01 PM
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Mark McDonough
66' IIa, 95 D 90 300 Tdi, 94,98 D1
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Inner Fender Bolts

I didnt remove the inner fender arch but just chanced out the inner fender mounting hardware w/ stainless. and yes, 4 screws and two inward facing bolts/nuts. There are mounts to the plumbing bolted to the fender from inside as you mention. Bring it over or swing by if you want to check out the hardware I used on the 300 Tdi. Brentwood, NH

Mark
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  #3  
Old May 28th, 2008, 12:22 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Um, the inner fender wells are factory galvanized...
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  #4  
Old May 28th, 2008, 12:51 PM
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Mark McDonough
66' IIa, 95 D 90 300 Tdi, 94,98 D1
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Galvanized

Ever see a galvaized boat anchor after 10-15 years of use? After 10-15 years of salted up New Hampshire roads coupled with regular driving sand blasting it's more a surprised that anything is still there resembling a fender well. I think I saw some residual factory galvanizing left on mine- under the bolt washers. The NE is just a tough place to be just to keep these things from rusting away all together.
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Old May 28th, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Waxoyl?
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  #6  
Old May 28th, 2008, 01:05 PM
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Mark McDonough
66' IIa, 95 D 90 300 Tdi, 94,98 D1
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Waxoyl

I'll be curious what D90 DRC replies with regarding Waxoyl but I've had no luck with it. After having my 66 IIa restored at teh 4X4 Center in VT see; http://www.the4x4center.com/Restorations%20Diesel.html , everything was Waxoyl'ed. In some applications I think the product may have some level of prevention where conditions are'nt so severe. Another contributing factor w/ these trucks, in this particular environment, is the design of things like door frames that basically act as a salt water trap until a hole rusts through from the inside. Brand new doors, treated with Waxoyl took all of 6 months (August-Feb) to show rust to the point of loosing paint of the outer surface of the door sills. That time of year though, thats all they needed. Now I just run the 66 in the better weather- too hard to keep up w/ otherwise.
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  #7  
Old May 28th, 2008, 02:44 PM
Eric Siepmann
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Eric W. Siepmann
1997 Defender 90 SW
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Waxoyl'd mine when I got the truck. No rust whatsoever. Chicago winters and salt conditions don't vary that much to those in the Northeast. Galvanize the ones you got then Waxoyl them and you should be fine. Just use the exterior frame protection - the black stuff. It also helps immensly if you wash your truck frequently to remove salt.

Worst case is that you need to replace the wells. No big deal.
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Old May 28th, 2008, 03:00 PM
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Steve Maietta
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waxoyl is good on salty spray / water, but up in VT (lived for a while there) and neighboring NH, with the miles of dirt roads and sand in the (long) winters, waxoyl would get blasted off pretty quick in a fenderwell. Maybe a thick rubber coating? Rhinoliner?
~steve
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  #9  
Old May 28th, 2008, 04:31 PM
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Scott T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Siepmann
It also helps immensly if you wash your truck frequently to remove salt.
If you can take the time to wash it, try using some of this stuff it works really well at removing the salt. We used it on our boat years ago, great stuff!
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  #10  
Old May 29th, 2008, 11:02 AM
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D Cantrell
1997 D90SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark McDonough
I didnt remove the inner fender arch but just chanced out the inner fender mounting hardware w/ stainless. and yes, 4 screws and two inward facing bolts/nuts. There are mounts to the plumbing bolted to the fender from inside as you mention. Bring it over or swing by if you want to check out the hardware I used on the 300 Tdi. Brentwood, NH

Mark
Hi Mark,, I too have the Stainless thing doing... If you need any SS button heads I have a ton of it left over from my shop days... Ive seen you cruise by Im in Exeter

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Waxoyl?
Waxoyl the trouble with stuff like Waxoyl is it will hold the salt and grime in and potentially cause worse damage. As for me I prefer to use industrial coatings like Powder coating and Gal....

I may use a similar product to Waxoyl to coat the nuts and bolts, I used a similar type protective coating when I was in the Navy it was called Proctonone pardon the spelling

I also have used PAM before... Spray the engine and wheel wheels down with PAM and the end of the trail fun you can hoses it off easy... It works for that nasty red clay found in the SW and Baja

As for up here the NE roads are brutal Salt and gravel mix does wonders...

After I finish restoring the damage from the last 3 winters I'm parking my 90 next winter when the roads are salted....
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