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  #1  
Old March 28th, 2005, 01:16 PM
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remove front diff?

Whats the easiest way to remove the front diff?
I've been told two ways.
1. remove the hubs, pull axle out.
2. remove the entire swivel assembly, pull axle out.
Which is the better way to go? Or is there another way better still?
Downsides?
tnx
-scott
'94
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  #2  
Old March 28th, 2005, 04:56 PM
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It is quicker to remove the hubs, spindles then just pull the axles out. I did it with no problems. The swivel housing bolts to the axle tube suck to remove and you have to do them with an open end wrench. It takes forever.
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  #3  
Old March 28th, 2005, 09:10 PM
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If you have a BFH and a 14mm gearwrench and are STRONG I would do the swivels.
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  #4  
Old March 29th, 2005, 06:21 PM
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If you don't need to strip dow the swivels I'd undo the 7 bolts that hold the swivel on'you can even get away without draining the brakes down. nyou do need to hve eaten at least 3 shedded wheats for breakfast because tje swivel assembly is a bit heavy and rather difficult to manage
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  #5  
Old April 1st, 2005, 09:22 AM
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If I remove the swivels, I'll probably have to undo the brake lines, and deal with hook up and bleeding them. Right?
OTOH going the other way, I'd need to acquire one of them special sockets for the hub bolt, and make sure I dont over/under tighten that bolt when reassembling. But I get to check/repack the bearings this way.
Hmmmm...
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Old April 1st, 2005, 09:43 AM
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remove the calipers & use a coat hanger & hang them from the shock tower!! Don't remove the line.
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  #7  
Old April 1st, 2005, 09:43 AM
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Scott Jimmy and I both have the socket. And you really don't need a Torc wrench, you just have to kinda feel it out, thats how I do mine and my truck has never lost a wheel or burnt out the bearings.
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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Old April 1st, 2005, 05:28 PM
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Unhappy [cough!]

Having lost a wheel while driving in town 2 weeks ago I decided it was time for a torque wrench instead!
(123euros...geeeeez!)


Hey,is this about removing diff or swivel housing?
I'm interested in both but swivel has priority at the mo (need to change the seal).

I will happily take note of any clever suggestion and tip to make job easier
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  #9  
Old April 1st, 2005, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoloco
If I remove the swivels, I'll probably have to undo the brake lines, and deal with hook up and bleeding them. Right?
OTOH going the other way, I'd need to acquire one of them special sockets for the hub bolt, and make sure I dont over/under tighten that bolt when reassembling. But I get to check/repack the bearings this way.
Hmmmm...
Both methods require you to remove the brake calipers. As stated, just un-bolt calipers (two bolts) and hang out of the way while leaving hoses attached. The caliper bolts should be torqued properly. They are meant to be quite tight.
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  #10  
Old April 2nd, 2005, 07:03 AM
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Hi John,
calipers will not be the major issue I think


I'm spreading on different forums

you see!

2 weeks to have the EP00 for swivel housings...sob...I'm waiting still,nothing until Monday...
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  #11  
Old April 2nd, 2005, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
And you really don't need a Torc wrench, you just have to kinda feel it out, thats how I do mine and my truck has never lost a wheel or burnt out the bearings.
Yeah, but you have to know what you are feeling for. If you never done it - its kinda difficult.
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Old April 2nd, 2005, 03:20 PM
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At the swivel you do not have to touch the brakes.
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  #13  
Old April 2nd, 2005, 05:31 PM
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I agree about not having to do anything to the brake lines or brakes if you unbolt the enitre swivel pin assembly at the flange. After unbolting, pull the entire assembly out a bit so the axle ends clear the differential, and have at it. Have a support handy on which you can set the rather awkward swivel pin/brake/hub assembly so you don't strain your brake lines. I just replaced my front differential with an airlocker using that method and had absolutely no problems. Enjoy.
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Old April 2nd, 2005, 05:37 PM
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Scott when do you plan on doing this?
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #15  
Old April 3rd, 2005, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
Scott when do you plan on doing this?
Yesteday. But it was raining and I decided I had had enough water dripping onto my face after getting the rear drive shaft hooked up and a couple bolts for front and the skid plate undone (need to figure out how to get a couple buggered bolts dealt with too). No garage this time.
Since I'm now jobless with nothing to do during the week, was going to probably attack this on Monday. But, I'm open to suggestions...
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  #16  
Old April 3rd, 2005, 09:56 AM
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The buggered bolts are a pain, I normally try and hammer a socket on them but you know this, vise grips, and maybe some penatrating oil to help. I was just wondering as we are getting close to hour zero before the big trip. I was goning to say I could help today but I just saw I need to do a bit more work on mine before I can call it a weekend.
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #17  
Old April 3rd, 2005, 11:23 AM
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I still think its alot quicker removing the rotors and spindles. All the bolts can be done with a rachet or air tools and it goes quick. WIth air tools, I had one side un done with the axle pulled in 20 min. It was like a NASCAR pit stop. lol
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  #18  
Old April 3rd, 2005, 12:40 PM
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Minor clarification. The buggered bolts hold the skid plate up. Need to get that out of the way before the diff will come out easily. I was still underneath the the truck (with water dripping in my face). Havent gotten to the the wheels yet.

Mike, you offering your wiz bang socket for me to borrow? Thanks for the offer to help get me going, but it looks like yous got some work ahead of you still. Or you may be riding passenger again.
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  #19  
Old April 4th, 2005, 08:56 AM
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Going via the hubs, do I need some replacement lock washers that lock the hub bolts?
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  #20  
Old April 4th, 2005, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoloco
Going via the hubs, do I need some replacement lock washers that lock the hub bolts?
best to change them scott,northeast british parts just up the road in concord about a $1 each
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