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  #21  
Old April 4th, 2005, 04:30 PM
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Mike Hammond
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I just hammer them flat. Watch the pennies....
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  #22  
Old April 5th, 2005, 10:45 AM
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Scott
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Now time for the dumb noob questions.
I've got the wheel off, removed the two bolts holding the brake calipers to the hub. How to I get the calipers off without breaking the brake line?
The rubber brake line comes in and gets bolted to a braket then the metal line goes down to the calipers. If I undo this (where it bolts to the braket or where the rubber line joins the metal one), will this open up the brake system?
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  #23  
Old April 5th, 2005, 11:49 AM
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You should have enough play in the Hardline to pull the caliper off and tie it to the spring with a coat hanger or bungee.
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #24  
Old April 5th, 2005, 12:45 PM
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Mike Hammond
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If you undo the bolts that hold the bracket in place the caliper is then free to move without putting stress on the metal brake lines. Oil will leak from the swivel housing when you undo the bolts that hold the bracket . Once the bracket is free if you turn the holes in the bracket into slots you won't have to fully remove the bolts in the future.
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  #25  
Old April 5th, 2005, 01:09 PM
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Scott
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Hippert - just what I was looking for. Thank you!
Its lunch break - got the 1st axle out (I'm hoping I didnt bugger a seal getting it out). Now for the other side, and then the diff. Putting all this stuff back together is going to be interesting.
Mike (other one), I tried briefly to loosen those bolts, but they were in good. I've managed hopefully without stressing the metal brake line too much using the above. Might look into that next time, when I've got less on my mind and more wrenching under my belt.
This wind is driving me crazy, blowing oil all over the place! I need a garage. Or a tent.
tnx folks. we'll see how much longer before I holler for help again
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  #26  
Old April 5th, 2005, 01:24 PM
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My metthod is to put a bottle jack under the lower swivel pin and hold it up lightly when removing the upper swivel pin/bearing bolts to remove the brake line support. This stops the swivel housing from dropping and possibly damaging the swivel seal.
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  #27  
Old April 5th, 2005, 06:27 PM
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That's a good plan. those parts are pretty heavy when they're all bolted together
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  #28  
Old April 6th, 2005, 07:23 AM
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Well, I got everything out yesterday, diff swapped out new one in, got the axles back in just before dark (I'm a bit slow, but dont forget I'm a noob). Today need to put the hubs back, bearings greased, fill up with oil and I'll be in business.
I'll probably have questions on the bearings or hubs later after I get started...
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  #29  
Old April 6th, 2005, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
That's a good plan. those parts are pretty heavy when thy're all bolted together
?? What is with the roll eyes?? When you remove the upper pin bolts to remove the brake line support, the swivel housing drops. This puts the weight of the swivel housing onto the swivel seal. By supporting the housing, you ensure that the seal is not damaged. It is a stupid design to use the swivel pin bolts to hold the brake line, but that is another story.
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  #30  
Old April 6th, 2005, 01:35 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
?? What is with the roll eyes?? When you remove the upper pin bolts to remove the brake line support, the swivel housing drops. This puts the weight of the swivel housing onto the swivel seal. By supporting the housing, you ensure that the seal is not damaged. It is a stupid design to use the swivel pin bolts to hold the brake line, but that is another story.
'cause those parts are heavy. and all the oil leaks out. Then there's grief over the state of the drive.........
Suporting it with jack is a fine plan. why didn't I think of that when I was pulling the front diff
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  #31  
Old April 6th, 2005, 01:53 PM
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Finally got all the bits and pieces put back together. Right now I'm not sure if the hub bolt is too tight, just right or not tight enough.
I tightened all I could with the tools I had. The hub just started to stiffen when turning it. Loosened and redid it (while spinning the hub) and then backed off a smidge. Put the rest of the bits and pieces in. Now I just need to hook up the prop shaft, fill up with oil and time for test drive.
Thanks folks.
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  #32  
Old April 7th, 2005, 03:23 AM
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Mike Hammond
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If the wheel rotates freely and there's no detectable movement when pushing/pulling the wheel when it's off the ground then it's just right
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