Relocating Warn 8274 solenoid pack? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 25th, 2008, 05:39 PM
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Relocating Warn 8274 solenoid pack?

Since I have the winch off while the bumper is getting refinished I am changing the oil in my 8274 and thinking of moving the solenoid pack to under the fender. If I go get new cables made at the welding supply shop to reach from the solenoid pack to the motor would there be any issues in them being 3 feet long instead of the 6 inches they are now? I know the solenoid pack grounds through the bracket and thus motor so I would be sure to add a good ground to the new bracket.
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  #2  
Old February 25th, 2008, 05:42 PM
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I dont think you would have an issue.. I've seen plenty of people relocate their packs. I cant imagine the 8274 would be different??
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Old February 25th, 2008, 06:18 PM
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I was thinking upgrading to one of those Albright waterproof solenoids might be nice too.
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Old February 25th, 2008, 08:38 PM
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I moved my solenoid to under the seat in the battery compartment. No issues. Just use the correct gauge cable. I think I used 2 gauge.
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Old February 25th, 2008, 09:10 PM
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Good idea, I have nothing in there now. Battery is still in the series position. Perhaps I could put it in the tool tray under the center console as alternatively. Then I could run the controller plug out the seatbox by the hand brake.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 06:41 AM
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Other than taking something simple and making it more complicated no worries moving it. I am alarmed however at some of the routing of power to winches that I see come into the shop as well as the wiring for the controls. Huge potential for shit going bad.

I've relocated the solenoids and controls on my own rigs as well as many customers, and at this point nothing makes me happier that to have all that stuff mounted (or as much as possible) OUTSIDE the truck.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 08:48 AM
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C'mon Matt, why simplify things?
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Old February 26th, 2008, 11:23 AM
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8274 and Albright solenoids pack bolted to the wing lip inside and no troubles so far
(touch wood)
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Old February 26th, 2008, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
Other than taking something simple and making it more complicated no worries moving it. I am alarmed however at some of the routing of power to winches that I see come into the shop as well as the wiring for the controls. Huge potential for shit going bad.

I've relocated the solenoids and controls on my own rigs as well as many customers, and at this point nothing makes me happier that to have all that stuff mounted (or as much as possible) OUTSIDE the truck.
My battery is already under my seat, so whether I wire power to the front bumper or wire the solinoid to under the seat, it's all the same thing. There were no extra wires. I see your point if the battery was located in the engine compartment and you wanted to put the solinoid in the cab. Wiring the solinoid into the cab also makes my winch more secure because there is no constant power to the winch out front. I knew a guy that had some vandals jump the power leads on his winch and did some serious damage when they ran the winch cable over the top of his rig to the back!
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Old February 26th, 2008, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
If I go get new cables made at the welding supply shop to reach from the solenoid pack to the motor would there be any issues in them being 3 feet long instead of the 6 inches they are now?
None whatsoever, technically, as long as you size them correctly. That said, if you aren't having problems, you may want to reconsider. The cost of copper has skyrocketed in the past year, about double what it was a year ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep Rescue
My battery is already under my seat, so whether I wire power to the front bumper or wire the solinoid to under the seat, it's all the same thing. There were no extra wires.
Ummm....3 wires (Field one, Field 2 and Armature) instead of one = extra wires.


Quote:
Wiring the solinoid into the cab also makes my winch more secure because there is no constant power to the winch out front. I knew a guy that had some vandals jump the power leads on his winch and did some serious damage when they ran the winch cable over the top of his rig to the back!
A disconnect under the bonnet or in the cab would have prevented that. Doesn't really have anything to do with where the solenoids are located. You just want your disconnect in the feed line between your battery and the solenoid pack.
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  #11  
Old February 26th, 2008, 12:04 PM
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The other reason I am doing it is to get the solenoid pack out of the way of intercooler airflow. Small difference but it all helps. I dropped the winch motor off at my local auto electric guy to recondition today as well.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 01:01 PM
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Tom: I have two wires going to my winch from my solenoid under my seat - power and a ground, same as if the winch solenoid was located on winch.
I think it's all opinion based on which is best of course. I had never remoted a solenoid to the cab on my previous vehicles, but it actually simplified my wiring.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
The other reason I am doing it is to get the solenoid pack out of the way of intercooler airflow. Small difference but it all helps. I dropped the winch motor off at my local auto electric guy to recondition today as well.
Very valid point, and I wasn't inferring that moving solenoids around was a bad idea....just that doing it right is a good idea. You would be shocked to see some of the half ass things I see in the shop. I do like simplicity though.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep Rescue
Tom: I have two wires going to my winch from my solenoid under my seat - power and a ground, same as if the winch solenoid was located on winch.
Interesting, no idea what sort of winch motor would be wired like that. But Kevin's is a Warn 8274 so the motor takes 3 wires plus ground.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist
Interesting, no idea what sort of winch motor would be wired like that. But Kevin's is a Warn 8274 so the motor takes 3 wires plus ground.
My guess is that is because mine is a permenent magnet type.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
Very valid point, and I wasn't inferring that moving solenoids around was a bad idea....just that doing it right is a good idea. You would be shocked to see some of the half ass things I see in the shop. I do like simplicity though.

Here you can see the intercooler setup with the temporary bumper while the Rockware is out for a hot dip.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 02:33 PM
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Hi Kevin,

It is common to mount the control pack under the "bonnet" in the UK and Australia. You will need to replace the 3 motor cables, use at least 2 gauge wires to prevent voltage loss. I mounted the control pack to the inner fender on the driver side, I used 1 gauge battery cables and 2 gauge motor cables.

With the control pack under the hood you will not have access to the remote control plug, so order a WARN part number 14867. This is a 2 foot long extension that will allow you to relocate the plug out side the engine compartment. I have mine mounted next to the driver side head light.

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Old February 28th, 2008, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outfield
With the control pack under the hood you will not have access to the remote control plug, so order a WARN part number 14867. This is a 2 foot long extension that will allow you to relocate the plug out side the engine compartment. I have mine mounted next to the driver side head light.
Don't know the age of Kevin's winch (I think the newer ones have a different connector), but my 8274 controller connection is a very common 4 pin trailer socket. A lot cheaper than ordering anything from Warn
For what they charge for that kit, it would probably be cheaper to cut off the the one that's on the controller and convert it to something common.
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Old February 28th, 2008, 09:19 PM
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You nailed it Tom. Mine was made in 1978 and has the 4 pin socket, under 10 bucks at trailer supply places and I don't need to change my controller.
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Old April 2nd, 2008, 08:42 PM
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Got my bumper back on and the solenoid pack moved. I had new cables made at the welding supply shop and made a simple bracket to mount the pack using a bumper bolt so it is well grounded.
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