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  #1  
Old May 9th, 2009, 02:25 AM
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Redline Water Wetter

Have any of you guys tried it? Does it work? My water temp has been running a little hot lately and I have heard some good things about it. Just wanted some more opinions.

Thanks, Buck
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  #2  
Old May 9th, 2009, 07:23 AM
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It works, and works well. Not a good bandaid though if something else is lacking......used to run cool, or has something changed?
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  #3  
Old May 9th, 2009, 09:13 AM
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A very good product, actually works better with very little or no antifreeze also.
I have used it for a long time now...in all my trucks.
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  #4  
Old May 9th, 2009, 12:30 PM
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The way to do it is to switch to distilled water only (no antifreeze) and then add it. I have used it in several of my vehicles over the years during the summer but never in any of my Rovers (never needed it).
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Old May 9th, 2009, 12:37 PM
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I would do a full flush and refill with BMW blue coolant first and see how the temp is. Every vehicle I have put that coolant in has run considerably cooler than with conventional coolant. I have always suspected that they have some version of water wetter already in the formula, but I am just basing that off my experience with it's added cooling effect.
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Old May 9th, 2009, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
It works, and works well. Not a good bandaid though if something else is lacking......used to run cool, or has something changed?
Used to run at 190, now sits at 200 to 210 all the time. No idea why. I recently blew apart my fan shroud, so I figure that perhaps a couple blades have been missing for a while. I figured cooler is better anyway, why not try it.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
The way to do it is to switch to distilled water only (no antifreeze) and then add it. I have used it in several of my vehicles over the years during the summer but never in any of my Rovers (never needed it).
Is there enough rust protection and pump dressing in the water wetter to compensate for no coolant? I'm no expert, but I heard that running low coolant can cause issues given enough time. I don't have to worry too much about freezing, but a little. Once it got to 8 degrees on the lake bed.
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  #7  
Old May 10th, 2009, 07:47 PM
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Id like to hear a little more on this BMW coolant.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
I would do a full flush and refill with BMW blue coolant first and see how the temp is. Every vehicle I have put that coolant in has run considerably cooler than with conventional coolant. I have always suspected that they have some version of water wetter already in the formula, but I am just basing that off my experience with it's added cooling effect.

Whats considerably cooler?
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  #8  
Old May 10th, 2009, 07:54 PM
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David, I use it on my Tdi. I noticed a difference right away under load when its really hot out. Prob about 5+ deg cooler... ITs better then nothing and woth the few $ at auto zone..
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  #9  
Old May 10th, 2009, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
Id like to hear a little more on this BMW coolant.

Follow-up Post:

Whats considerably cooler?
I suspect that it is the same as the Land Rover G48 coolant that is used in the '03-'05 Range Rovers. This is a guess based on the fact that it is also blue, and is only specifically used in that engine that is borrowed from BMW. I don't really know anything more about it to be honest, but its about half the price of the LR G48 stuff, its blue in color & both vehicles that I put it into ran cooler with it in there than they did previously. I don't know the exact temp difference as I don't have a digital gauge, but both used to run with the needle dead center, and both now run with the needle about 1/8" left of center. They never move either, except in one case in the jeep, heavily loaded, at high alt. in the mountains on a 98 degree day when the needle moved up to the middle again (it's original place before the BMW stuff).
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  #10  
Old May 11th, 2009, 10:31 AM
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Your viscous unit is probably dead. These engine need very little air flow. The viscous units die regularly. When it is hot, take a roll up newspaper and try to stop the fan. If it stops, the unit is dead.
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  #11  
Old May 11th, 2009, 10:40 AM
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don't mean to hijack the thread but what should the hose(top hose on radiator?) temperature be on a 3.9 when the gauge is in the middle?

my brother 94 has had this overheating issue for a while now and i've replaced everything. radiator, thermostat, sender, water pump, head gaskets, fan clutch. the problem is better but it still happens especially, under load. I measured the top hose of the radiator with an infared gun and it was at 180-190 when the gauge was slightly towards the red. Bottom hose was around 155-160. This in the norm?
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  #12  
Old May 11th, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Update...according to our parts manager, it is exactly the same as the G48 LR stuff, just in a different bottle and far less expensive. Apparently the LR stuff is up to $72/gal!
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  #13  
Old May 11th, 2009, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Your viscous unit is probably dead. These engine need very little air flow. The viscous units die regularly. When it is hot, take a roll up newspaper and try to stop the fan. If it stops, the unit is dead.
I'll try that but I doubt it. Fan literally blew into pieces my last trip out. I only found about 4 blades on the ground and 8 were gone. I think that maybe the fan was in pieces before that. I replaced the fan this weekend. The clutch seemed okay but I will check it out. I have been really hard on it this year, I think it could have let go during KOH.

I got the water wetter so I will let everyone know how it works. I also reduced the coolant to about 25-30% I am guessing.
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  #14  
Old May 11th, 2009, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
don't mean to hijack the thread but what should the hose(top hose on radiator?) temperature be on a 3.9 when the gauge is in the middle?

my brother 94 has had this overheating issue for a while now and i've replaced everything. radiator, thermostat, sender, water pump, head gaskets, fan clutch. the problem is better but it still happens especially, under load. I measured the top hose of the radiator with an infared gun and it was at 180-190 when the gauge was slightly towards the red. Bottom hose was around 155-160. This in the norm?
Do your self a favor and get a real temp gauge. Get a VDO with the proper sender so you can read the real temp. !90 is normal
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  #15  
Old May 11th, 2009, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
Do your self a favor and get a real temp gauge. Get a VDO with the proper sender so you can read the real temp. !90 is normal
Agree. Although after getting my VDO, I now know my rig is running slighty hot (couldn't tell for sure with the stock guage). Figuring out why is on the to-do list now.
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  #16  
Old June 26th, 2009, 01:27 AM
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Just wanted to let everyone know that the water wetter with about 25% coolant didn't do a damn thing for me. Zero change in temperature over last trip. Snake oil.
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  #17  
Old June 26th, 2009, 06:56 AM
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Ive been running the entire container and water. I cant tell a difference.
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  #18  
Old June 26th, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
I suspect that it is the same as the Land Rover G48 coolant .....(it's original place before the BMW stuff).
Guessing I have to go find a BMW dealer? Or can you get it at a parts store?
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  #19  
Old June 26th, 2009, 11:08 AM
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A couple of things..... the less viscose the coolant, the quicker it will absorb and release heat. So if your running 50/50 coolant-water, cut back on the anti-freeze. Before I changed over to the 300Tdi, my '97 4.0 had overheating problems too. I resolved the issue by hot wiring the AC fan (through a relay) to a dash switch, for additional air flow. I wish LR had placed the factory A/T cooler at the radiator level to take advantage of the air/fan flow to help cool down the auto trany fluid rather than below the radiator where it works poorly (if at all) while wheeling.
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  #20  
Old June 27th, 2009, 02:36 AM
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If it is not the fan clutch then either blockage or poor pressure would be things to check. If the rad has corroded inside then it may not flow like it should, and if the water pump is dying same result. Now, I would love to hear a good empirical way to measure the flow rate through the rad/block if anyone has a good idea.

Have you tried doing a full system hot-water flush for 10-15 minutes including draining the block with the plugs on each side? If you have been running Dexcool there is a change that sludge formation has reduced the flow rate.
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