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  #21  
Old April 9th, 2009, 12:37 PM
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Cellulararrest wrote:
"The "proper" way to reset codes is to disconnect the ECU, turn the ignition on until you hear the ECU relay drop out, shut the ignition off and reconnect the ECU. Resetting the code that way just erases the displayed code and leaves any others that may be in the ECU (while will display with ignition turned back on)."

OK - I admit - I am OK at fixing things around the house, BUT I am a mechanical bonehead when it comes to cars/engines- short of changing my wheels and a few other small fixes. BUT I know I have to get better to owe an older Land Rover - and this is the perfect vehicle to learn on. Especially with this great helpful web page.

From everyone's opinion, It seems to make sense to reset this code - to see if it comes back for real - and to see if there are other codes that come up. Then I can look at fixing the problem, when I know I really have one.

I found my ECU. It looks like there is one huge black rectangular cable that hooks into it, with a release on one side of the cable.

Questions:
1) How long til the ECU 'drops out' and what does that mean? You hear it drop out?
2) Does this plug come out and go in easily, or do I have to be real carful and are there prongs or connections that could break (I am thinking of the old printer cable connections).
3) Anything negative about unplugging this ECU that I should know about???

THANKS EVERYONE!

Flagg
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  #22  
Old April 9th, 2009, 01:14 PM
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Hans Haase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flagg

I found my ECU. It looks like there is one huge black rectangular cable that hooks into it, with a release on one side of the cable.

Questions:
1) How long til the ECU 'drops out' and what does that mean? You hear it drop out?
2) Does this plug come out and go in easily, or do I have to be real carful and are there prongs or connections that could break (I am thinking of the old printer cable connections).
3) Anything negative about unplugging this ECU that I should know about???

THANKS EVERYONE!

Flagg
You need to push down on the release tab, and tilt that side out first. The other side of the connector hooks under a tab, so it won't come straight out, it has to be tilted out one side at a time. Re-installing, you do the hook side first and tip it back in.

Your idle speed settings will get wiped out when you reset the ECU, so expect a high idle speed when coming to a stop for a while, until it re-learns everything.

-Hans
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  #23  
Old April 9th, 2009, 01:54 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Just so you can read it from the expert himself: http://www.snhlr.org/forums/showpost...9&postcount=12

But yes, when you turn the ignition on with the ECU unplugged you will hear a "click" after a few seconds.
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  #24  
Old April 10th, 2009, 03:09 PM
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OK.........I did it! It did not go quite by the book........I followed the instructions and here is what happened.

1) Unplugged ECU

2) Attempted to start engine. It would not turn over.........just "RrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrr". I tried it three times- not believing I could not even do this simple test. I never heard any relay click or 'drop out'.

3) I figured it 'was' running fine and the only thing I did was unplug that ECU.

4) I plugged the ECU back in.

5) It stated immediately

6) The check engine light was now OFF. I ran around the car and checked the code. #02 - which I remembered as meaning I was good to go. I let it idle for about 7 minutes.

7) I shut the engine off, waited about 10 seconds and started it back up. NO check engine light. No code being displayed. I let it idle for another 5 minutes. Revved the engine a few times. No check engine light.

I guess I will see if it comes back when I drive it around again.

Thanks for everyone's help on this page. I would never have even known how to check for where the code was without you guys. I would have taken it to a Land Rover shop and just told them the check engine light had come on............

If there is really nothing wrong, and it was just a fluke that that light came on, you guys probably saved me a couple, few hundred dollars.

I will report back if anything happens as I drive it around for the next few weeks.

THANKS!!!!!

Flagg
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  #25  
Old April 10th, 2009, 05:23 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Next time don't try start it to clear the codes. Just turn the ignition to the "on" position, where it sits while running. Otherwise your all set. If it keeps happening you can try to troubleshoot but for now you should be all set.

charles
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  #26  
Old April 10th, 2009, 07:47 PM
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HA!

Shows you what a mechanic I am. All the instructions say "ignition on", yet I blindly tried to start the engine. Lucky it worked. Next time I will try to follow instructions!!!!

Flagg
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  #27  
Old January 18th, 2010, 09:30 PM
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Hey,

Well it has been over 10 months but yesterday I had my check engine light come on again. Same conditions: Did not drive the truck for a few days. Then drove it about 20 miles in damp conditions. Parked for 3 hours or so. Went to go home and the check engine light came on when I started it to go home. It is really strange how the conditions are so similar, because I clearly remember the day when this happened last time because of where I was going.........

So I did the procedure on this thread with no problem. Code 44 - Lambda sensor A - left bank - AGAIN. After the ECU trick there was no fault. I will see what happens when I drive it tomorrow.

Funny it is the same sensor. Funny it was the same conditions. If that code keeps coming back I will have to look into replacing the Oxygen sensor I guess. Any connections between the conditions and the oxygen sensor????

It was GREAT to search for this tread - see the date I posted it - and know what to do this time! I also replaced a tail light bulb today. I am by NO MEANS a mechanic.......but it was a good feeling to feel like I knew what I was doing today.

Thanks everyone,

Flagg
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  #28  
Old January 19th, 2010, 06:54 AM
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Bill Adams
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Check your connections

First a short lesson on why you have oxygen sensors. The engine needs a method of knowing whether the mixture is too rich or lean. It does this by "sniffing" the exhaust. The oxygen sensors will report a change in the amount of voltage required to keep them hot. They only come into play when the engine has warmed up beyond the computer's initial warm up enrichment phase. This is usually 5-10 minutes after startup. If either sensor fails, the ECU senses this and throws a code. The failure of the sensor can mean a loss of a catalytic converter if left unrepaired long term.

First try simply unplugging and reconnecting the sensor. Often it may be a small amount of corrosion that causes the problem. Otherwise, spend the bucks and put in a new set.
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  #29  
Old January 19th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Stop going to wherever it is you went those times!

J/K
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  #30  
Old January 19th, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Charles - your suggestion made me laugh.

Bill - thanks for the education, cause I really had no idea what the O2 sensor did. Hummmm..........no check engine today. With the same code happening twice, I probably should get the O2 sensor checked out.

But wouldn't the the fault happen all the time if I had a problem????

Flagg
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  #31  
Old February 15th, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Hi,

Check engine light came on again yesterday. I have to go through the same procedure again outlined on this tread. I will see if it is the same thing again. This time it has been about 13 months........Right now I have a childseat installed and it is cold. I will get to it, but it may be a couple weeks. I bet it is the same thing. Truck seems to be running great.......

---------------------

QUESTION:
My sister has a 1998 Discovery. She has the check engine light come on. Is there a place that she can easily see the code read out and unplug the ECU, or are things all different on a 98 Disco.

(I know that this has nothing to do with Defenders - but I KNEW someone on this page would know the answer)

Thanks,
Flagg
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  #32  
Old February 15th, 2011, 12:45 PM
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Scott Y
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Your 95 D90 has an ODB system and the 98 Disco has an OBD II system. The OBD II specs were developed, among other reasons, to allow for generic, non proprietary diagnostic systems. The OBD systems tend to be all proprietary. For OBD II systems, you can go down to the local auto parts place like Checkers, Autozone, etc, and purchase a code reader. I seem to recall that they start around $100 or so. Usually these readers allow you to clear the codes without disconnecting the battery or ECU. There should be a generic port for you to plug the reader into (on my 2003 Disco it is below and to the right of the steering wheel.

In my 2003 Disco II, we frequently get a CEL. Every time to date, it has been the gas cap. (oh yea, with OBD II there are more sensors and, therefore, potential faults). To date, I simply have tighten the gas cap and disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes. Disconnecting the battery has the same effect of disconnecting the ECU from its harness.

On my 95 D90, I routinely get CELs (about once every 4-6 months). All have been reset by disconnecting the battery. Since the CEL doesn't relight right away, I can only suspect that they are intermittant faults, maybe caused by a ECU to sensor communication dropout, tired electrons, or whatever. I did get a TPS error off and on for about 3 years. Eventually, the TPS gave up and I replaced it.
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  #33  
Old February 15th, 2011, 03:18 PM
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Have your sister go to autozone/advanced auto/whomever and they will read/clear the OBDII codes for free.
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  #34  
Old February 16th, 2011, 04:09 PM
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THANKS GUYS! I will pass the information along to her, and get to work on my own check engine light.

Flagg
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  #35  
Old March 5th, 2011, 09:22 PM
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Ok.......one of the kids threw up in the Defender on the way to the doctor........
- Bad news: Had to clean that up
- Good news: Defender is easy to clean, and I now had to remove that car seat so I could get to the ECU.....

Same code: 44

Should probably just get that O2 sensor replaces as this is the third time. But if they keep happening over a year apart it does not seem urgent. Did the routine and check engine light now OFF.

I am going to see if come right back on in the next several days of driving.

Flagg
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  #36  
Old March 5th, 2011, 10:46 PM
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If the truck runs fine I would not change the 02 sensor, the sensors are kind of expensive and the CEL is not coming on that frequently. Lucas wiring, stray voltage, who knows, but if you were running too lean or rich you would know from other symptoms, such as stumbling, hesitation fuel smell after shutdown or high fuel consumption. JMO
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  #37  
Old March 9th, 2011, 08:16 PM
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Hey Joe................for now I probably will not do anything. The light is staying off - and the truck is really running great.........Thanks for the advice.

Flagg
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  #38  
Old June 28th, 2011, 07:30 PM
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Guys,

Today Check engine light came on again. Code #44 AGAIN. This time it has been less then 4 months.

I did the procedure and it is currently off. I think I am finally going to get those Oxygen sensors on my to do list for the defender..........

Flagg
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  #39  
Old July 2nd, 2011, 09:31 AM
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One thing you could try-if you don't know how to or don't care to check the voltage from the O2 sensor, is swap the O2 sensors, if you get the CEL again and it is code 45, then it is probably that sensor.

But I would not randomly change that sensor until i did a little troubeshooting.

Some people say change both if changing one, but depends on how much cash you can spend at one shot.
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