Rebuilding the spare tire carrer: stainless? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 20th, 2010, 04:43 PM
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Rebuilding the spare tire carrer: stainless?

I decided to rebuild the spare tire carrier before we move to Colorado. It was starting to rust and I wanted to take care of it while it was still serviceable. I pulled the carrier off and dismantled it, removing all of the bushings and hardware, and then sent the pieces off for media blasting and powder coating. Now I'm going through all of the hardware and ordering new bits from McMaster and I'm wondering if I can go stainless for this stuff. Most of the hardware is Grade 8.8 M4 and M6 hex heads but there's also a 110mm M10 hex head in there.

This stuff is bearing the load of a 285/75 tire on an ANR4853 wheel. Definitely not light but then again, it's not a driveshaft bolt or anything. Is it okay to use 316 stainless steel hex heads for this project?
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  #2  
Old June 20th, 2010, 04:46 PM
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I would not use stainless on the big bolt that hold the bottom of the cage on (the 110mm 10m) some people think it is a non-issue (SD cages now ship with stainless bolts) but the rest I have stainless on my red truck with no apparent issues.
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Old June 20th, 2010, 06:48 PM
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Look up Bumax fasteners in Mcmaster. They are a high strength stainless. Limited size selection, so might not match, but great stuff when it works out.
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  #4  
Old June 20th, 2010, 09:29 PM
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I went ahead and went with stainless for everything except the big 110mm bolt.

I will post some pictures of the rebuild progress when it gets back from the powder coater.
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Old June 20th, 2010, 10:23 PM
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Chris, the SS will not last a year. Even the harden steel ones only last a few years with a big tire before they start rattling and driving you crazy. Replace the bronze bushings and get new steel bolts. I would also avoid the powder coating if you have not already done it. It looks real nice but will not hold up to in a place that salts it's roads. If you can, have the unit hot dipped and then paint and you never worry about it again. I have already been down this road and having it dipped is the way to go.

Best of luck
Scott
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Old June 20th, 2010, 10:48 PM
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I installed stainless for every bolt on the spare tire carrier (except the hinge pins that run through the bushings) in 2004 and everything has been fine since then. I even used it for the big 110mm one going through the crossmember. No troubles, no rust.
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  #7  
Old June 21st, 2010, 12:17 AM
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Scott, I'm not to worried about about the rattling. My tire carrier didn't rattle much. Most of the noise came from the rear door hinges which I haven't yet been able to source replacements for. As for the powder coating, if it craps out on me, no biggie. I'll pull it again and galvanize it or buy a Mantec. I held off on galvanizing because I was concerned that they would drill a bunch of drain holes in it and weaken it. Plus, I was concerned about the zinc getting into the tubing where the bushings sit and having to be ground out before I could press new bushings in.

Jim, that's good to know. I may pick up a SS version of the 110mm bolt with my next McMaster order.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 08:08 AM
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Hey Chris, I lived on Cape Cod for years and hot dipping every part of the rover was a must before it just rusted off in front of your eyes.

You do need to drill small holes in the tube to let the galvy run our but no more than 1/4". As for the bushings, leave them in and fill the hole as well as the grease nipple hole and cover the threads with red RTV. You can just knock out the bushings when they come out.

As for the door hinge, they are from a series rover. Just a bolt with a bronze ball and you can pick them up at any rover supplies for a few bucks.

Jim, I love SS bolts and use them where ever I can but have not had good luck when I installed them in a high stress area. Maybe I'm just to hard on my stuff

Cheers
Scott
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Old June 21st, 2010, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverx View Post
Jim, I love SS bolts and use them where ever I can but have not had good luck when I installed them in a high stress area.
When using stainless, use hardened stainless. 300-series austenitic stainless steels will just bend and become quite wobbly.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 01:20 PM
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I usually end up using the 18-8 stuff since that is available in most of the sizes the Rover needs, but I prefer 316 when the size is available and the fastener will be visible. The 316 costs almost twice as much but is noticeable nicer when put side by side.

There are lots of fasteners for the tire carrier, and you can transfer the load to a couple of them if you don't have the thing all adjusted, but since the hinges are held to the body & crossmember by a bunch of bolts, so there is plenty of chance to get them all nice and snug and then bolt the carrier to the door. Just setting the thing up carefully will eliminate most of the rattles, then adjusting (or replacing) the rubber buffer will pretty much finish the job.
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  #11  
Old June 21st, 2010, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Scott, I'm not to worried about about the rattling. My tire carrier didn't rattle much. Most of the noise came from the rear door hinges which I haven't yet been able to source replacements for.
My door rattled so I replaced with this. You will probably need to order two

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...i-iia-iii.aspx

no more door rattle
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Old June 21st, 2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmityD90 View Post
My door rattled so I replaced with this. You will probably need to order two

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...i-iia-iii.aspx

no more door rattle
Thanks, that looks like the one.

On another note, I went to pick up my parts today at the powder coaters and was pretty disappointed with the results. There was large amounts of pitting where the rust was. They said that they couldn't get all of the corrosion out with the media blaster. Now I'm wishing I had tried building an electrolytic deruster. There was also a lot of bubbles, outgassing I presume. I had them sand it down and re-coat it so I'm stuck waiting for a few more days. I'm $260 into this and I wish I had just bought one of the Mantec tire carriers.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 11:20 PM
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They couldn't get all the rust out? That's a terrible excuse! Now, the powder coat won't cover any surface imperfections at all and any place where the corrosion left pits in the metal will definitely show, but if there were bubbles and stuff in the finish then that is on them.

If the final result isn't doing it for you, you can have them strip it again, take it away, and fill the imperfections in the metal with High-Temp Lab-Metal. The stuff is a PITA to stir, but works great, and you can PC over the top of it.
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  #14  
Old June 21st, 2010, 11:52 PM
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Yeah, that's pretty much what they suggested. I wish they would have told me this before we put the powder coat. Now that it's been coated and re-coated, I think I'm just going to be unhappy with it. If it starts rusting again after the Colorado move, I'll try the Lab-Metal or just say screw it and buy the Mantec.

This may be a new record for money invested in a stock tire carrier.
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