Rebuilding the Drop Arm Ball Joint - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 16th, 2011, 04:00 PM
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DNinety
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JP
1984 Ninety 200TDI
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Rebuilding the Drop Arm Ball Joint

Has anyone done this recently? I ordered the part and got it 90% assembled before I realized that my Britpart package didn't include a part that is listed in the workshop manual. Item #4 - the retainer that fits under the dust cover. I swear I didn't lose it, I dumped all the parts straight from the package to a bowl on my workbench.

I also noticed that the one I was replacing didn't have this piece either, so I'm wondering if it's unnecessary, or perhaps the workshop manual is wrong. Can't really see what it is 'retaining', as the arm is secured by the housing below....
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  #2  
Old March 17th, 2011, 02:18 AM
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Tony Sims
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I did mine a few months ago. I see the retainer you're talking about in the manual, but there was no retainer on my old joint, and none in the new kit. My kit was from Bearmach, so it seems the aftermarket is in agreement.

On a side note, it took me 2 hours with penetrating oil, a torch, a punch and a hammer to persuade the top cup out. I was ready to cut the drop arm off and replace it with the Disco version.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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  #3  
Old March 17th, 2011, 11:08 AM
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Thanks for the confirmation - makes me feel a lot better. The top cup - first it took me a few minutes to realize it was still stuck in there, then about an hour to 'coax' it out. Other than that, nice little project that had a big payoff. It really tightened up my steering.
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  #4  
Old March 20th, 2011, 09:01 AM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Is there really any advantage to rebuilding them vs just swapping on a D1/RRC drop arm and using an easy to change TRE instead? The D1/RRC ones are common enough.
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  #5  
Old March 20th, 2011, 03:17 PM
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Tony Sims
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If you swap to the Disco drop arm you have to do something about the steering damper, as the Disco front link doesn't have a mount for the damper. You can swap to a Disco tie rod, or clamp/weld a mount to the front link.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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  #6  
Old March 20th, 2011, 03:19 PM
ajh
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Ah right, I'd forgotten about that, easy enough though. Just doing a number of RHD->LHD conversions and looking for ways to bring down some of the costs and make them easier to grab off the shelf parts for.
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  #7  
Old March 20th, 2011, 07:09 PM
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I did the Disco swap.

Rovertym has a clamp setup.....I also swapped in their HD drag link. You wouldn't need the bracket for the chassis mount. That is for the Disco's......your D90 has it already.

http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/vm...lizer-Kit.html

The drop arm ball joint is a PITA that I've only wanted to do once.......never again.
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  #8  
Old March 31st, 2011, 01:19 PM
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I rebuilt the drop arm on the 85 110 soft top we have, needless to say the proper tools mean all the difference in the world. A ball joint separator is key.
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  #9  
Old March 31st, 2011, 03:06 PM
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Tony Sims
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Velardi View Post
I rebuilt the drop arm on the 85 110 soft top we have, needless to say the proper tools mean all the difference in the world. A ball joint separator is key.
The easiest way to separate a simple ball joint like the one on the drop arm is with two hammers. Place one hammer face against the side of the joint, and strike the joint on the other side with the other hammer. I have never had this fail, it never damages the taper pin or dust boot, and it usually only takes a couple good whacks to pop the joint loose.
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Quote:
[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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