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  #41  
Old September 7th, 2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Has anyone tried the cheaper CHRAs coming out of China that you see on ebay? I'm curious if anyone has real experience.
I rebuilt my turbo with the eBay parts and it works beautiful. I had ordered a new turbo from Turner in anticipation of not liking my rebuild but I didn't see the need to use it. Just be sure to mark the nut, the axle, and the turbine and leave it in the exact position when you assemble it.
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  #42  
Old September 7th, 2015, 05:21 PM
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if the vanes hit the housing, which it looks like they do, it needs a new bush/bearing. The vanes touching the housing quickly ruins them.
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  #43  
Old September 7th, 2015, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
All they are gonna do is take it apart and put in a new CHRA.
Not sure who "they" are but when I rebuilt turbos nothing was replaced (other than a rebuild kit which had seals, fasteners, etc.) unless they were out of spec.
We cleaned everything up, polished the turbine shaft, mic'd everything to make sure it was within spec, balanced the turbine shaft/wheel and the compressor wheel, then reassembled it.
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  #44  
Old September 7th, 2015, 05:58 PM
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The allowable play specs are 0.020" lateral and 0.004" axial. You are certainly way past that.
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  #45  
Old September 7th, 2015, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tribe View Post
I rebuilt my turbo with the eBay parts and it works beautiful. I had ordered a new turbo from Turner in anticipation of not liking my rebuild but I didn't see the need to use it. Just be sure to mark the nut, the axle, and the turbine and leave it in the exact position when you assemble it.

Ok good to know that this is something worth considering!

------ Follow up post added September 7th, 2015 06:48 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
if the vanes hit the housing, which it looks like they do, it needs a new bush/bearing. The vanes touching the housing quickly ruins them.

The small amount of wear on the housing isn't something I should be worried about though?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The allowable play specs are 0.020" lateral and 0.004" axial. You are certainly way past that.

Kind of what I figured but I thought I would ask since I have no experience.
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  #46  
Old September 8th, 2015, 11:12 AM
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Any recommendations re who to send one to?
Clay, I have not read the whole posting just the first one, Scott at united diesel does such job.
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  #47  
Old September 8th, 2015, 11:52 AM
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You should definitely worry about wear on the housing. And wear on the compressor/exhaust wheels.
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  #48  
Old September 8th, 2015, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
Clay, I have not read the whole posting just the first one, Scott at united diesel does such job.
thanks C$. I had Scott take a look and give me a quote. He was pricey @ just under $800 and zero guarantees. Scott's a good dude, this he admits isn't something he can control costs on.
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  #49  
Old September 8th, 2015, 12:12 PM
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I have a new original garret turbo that I would sell for the same dinero that I paid for at Turner

Edit: oh but this is for a 200tdi Disco. I'm not sure what you have...
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  #50  
Old September 8th, 2015, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tribe View Post
I have a new original garret turbo that I would sell for the same dinero that I paid for at Turner Edit: oh but this is for a 200tdi Disco. I'm not sure what you have...
thanks, I'm actually running a 300 but pulled the trigger on a new Garrett as well.
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  #51  
Old September 8th, 2015, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
You should definitely worry about wear on the housing. And wear on the compressor/exhaust wheels.

Any tips to tell what's acceptable. Is some light wear from the blades ok?
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  #52  
Old September 8th, 2015, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Any tips to tell what's acceptable. Is some light wear from the blades ok?
Well...I mean, to be perfectly honest, zero is acceptable. You should never have any wear on the blades, and the turbos should be rebuilt before the bushings are so blown out that the impellers hit the housing.

Strictly speaking, if the blades wear, two things change:

1. The airflow (and pressure) for a given RPM decreases. That is, the turbo must spin faster to make as much airflow at a given pressure.

2. The dynamic balance of the turbo changes, and the CHRA must be rebalanced.

Depending on the level of wear, the turbo might be able to be spun faster to compensate.

If the question is, "Hey can I just run my turbo even though it's slightly f'd up?" then I will say it's like anything else. You can run it until it presents a problem that cannot be overcome. You can spin the turbo faster and harder and run the bearings so out of round that the lifetime is cut in half or even less. You can run it until the blades start grinding away at the housings so your engine is constantly ingesting powdered metal. You can adjust your wastegate until it is sprung so tightly that the exhaust housing cracks and splits from being too hot.

But you can't pretend that it's not F'd up
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  #53  
Old September 8th, 2015, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Well...I mean, to be perfectly honest, zero is acceptable. You should never have any wear on the blades, and the turbos should be rebuilt before the bushings are so blown out that the impellers hit the housing.

Strictly speaking, if the blades wear, two things change:

1. The airflow (and pressure) for a given RPM decreases. That is, the turbo must spin faster to make as much airflow at a given pressure.

2. The dynamic balance of the turbo changes, and the CHRA must be rebalanced.

Depending on the level of wear, the turbo might be able to be spun faster to compensate.

If the question is, "Hey can I just run my turbo even though it's slightly f'd up?" then I will say it's like anything else. You can run it until it presents a problem that cannot be overcome. You can spin the turbo faster and harder and run the bearings so out of round that the lifetime is cut in half or even less. You can run it until the blades start grinding away at the housings so your engine is constantly ingesting powdered metal. You can adjust your wastegate until it is sprung so tightly that the exhaust housing cracks and splits from being too hot.

But you can't pretend that it's not F'd up
I think my question didn't come across too clearly, I'm certainly not going to be running this turbo as it. It seems my bearings and blades are no longer good. It also appear the blades have done some scoring on the housing nothing crazy but a little scoring none the less.
So if I was to go buy a new CHRA and drop it back in the housing, will the little bit of scoring on the housing where the blades contacted them be a concern?

This is more should I invest in a whole new turbo or will a CHRA be enough?
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  #54  
Old September 8th, 2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
I think my question didn't come across too clearly, I'm certainly not going to be running this turbo as it. It seems my bearings and blades are no longer good. It also appear the blades have done some scoring on the housing nothing crazy but a little scoring none the less.
So if I was to go buy a new CHRA and drop it back in the housing, will the little bit of scoring on the housing where the blades contacted them be a concern?

This is more should I invest in a whole new turbo or will a CHRA be enough?
No one on a forum can answer that question for you. The distance between the housing and the blade tips is meant to be a tight one and any wear on either means decreased performance. someone with a micrometer will need to determine how much the housing has worn.
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  #55  
Old September 8th, 2015, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
No one on a forum can answer that question for you. The distance between the housing and the blade tips is meant to be a tight one and any wear on either means decreased performance. someone with a micrometer will need to determine how much the housing has worn.
Ok thanks was just trying to determine if it was something that needs to be carefully taken into consideration or not. It seems like it does.
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  #56  
Old September 8th, 2015, 04:19 PM
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nm...Uncle Doug said it best.
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  #57  
Old September 8th, 2015, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
1. Upside: A new CHRA/wheels in a worn compressor housing is much, much better than having worn wheels in a worn housing.

2. Downside: Depending on how badly the compressor housing is worn, the turbo will have to spin faster to build the correct amount of boost, or if the wear is bad enough, won't build enough boost at all. You'll figure this out when you do the CHRA swap.

Bottom line: There is no specification for how much the compressor housing can be worn. It just shouldn't be worn at all. You have to make the decision on whether or not the result is acceptable. You will not know a priori whether or not the result is acceptable and I doubt anyone here can offer a guarantee.



If the CHRA/wheels are cheap, it's worth a try. At the worst you can find a new compressor housing for cheap.
Ok I think this clears it all up for me...for know. Thanks guys!
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  #58  
Old October 7th, 2015, 03:58 PM
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So I've got myself a new turbo a genuine garrett (minus the horns) and have removed the old horns from the old turbo. They were a real struggle to get out but they slide into the new turbo with no problem.
How tight should these fittings be? Should there be some sort of exhaust sealant put in there first? Obviously I don't want it to leak.....
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  #59  
Old October 7th, 2015, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
So I've got myself a new turbo a genuine garrett (minus the horns) and have removed the old horns from the old turbo. They were a real struggle to get out but they slide into the new turbo with no problem.
How tight should these fittings be? Should there be some sort of exhaust sealant put in there first? Obviously I don't want it to leak.....
This is what I plan to use. Congrats on getting the horns apart, not simple I'm sure.

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  #60  
Old October 7th, 2015, 04:37 PM
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This is what I plan to use. Congrats on getting the horns apart, not simple I'm sure.

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Ok one of my friends suggested that as well. I guess that will be the way to go.

Still wondering though how tight these should be before sealant.
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