Rebuilding early front axle - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 19th, 2016, 04:07 PM
Naplm00
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Matthew
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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Question Rebuilding early front axle

Well I have a shot cv and worn stub shaft on opposite sides of the truck. So time for a full rebuild. Need help figuring out what I need.

Was going to get :

DA3167 x2
AEU2522 x2
DA3190 x2

I also need the front axle rear hub seal, better than britpart quality and the locking tab washers for the stub axle nuts that retain the bearings.

I'll get the bearings locally.

Does this cover all of what I'll need? I want to replace everything both sides from half shaft out. Including the axle tube seal.

My chrome balls are shot both sides (rust)


Anything else I'll need for this job? Just got new drive flanges
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  #2  
Old September 19th, 2016, 04:18 PM
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I would find a used disco or RRC axle in good shape personally.
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  #3  
Old September 19th, 2016, 04:19 PM
Naplm00
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That would be the easy way out, but I'd rather rebuild new



Edit: also just stripped and painted this one
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  #4  
Old September 19th, 2016, 05:15 PM
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If your 83 is a ten spline truck, the 24 splines of a RRC/D1 should be plenty of incentive to make the switch.
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Old September 19th, 2016, 05:17 PM
Naplm00
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Na I'm a 24 spline with AEU2522 upfront already... Its a 110 with a sals rear on drum
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  #6  
Old September 19th, 2016, 05:44 PM
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Good man. Nothing wrong with the early axle.

Replace the brake pads of course.

Might as well do some new rotors while you're in there, if your current ones are wearing down. I found new Brembos on eBay for $70 for the pair.

If you're really particular about your truck like I am, you could do like I did and pull the entire tube and have it media blasted, then etch it and paint it with Eastwood Chassis Black Xtreme. I also did new bushings on all suspension and steering links while I was in there.
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  #7  
Old September 19th, 2016, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I would find a used disco or RRC axle in good shape personally.
The later axles are a big downgrade. Crappy little CVs joints and weaker bearing setup. Early axles are much better. All you need is a nice diff and 24/23 halfshafts and you are good to go.
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  #8  
Old September 19th, 2016, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Na I'm a 24 spline with AEU2522 upfront already... Its a 110 with a sals rear on drum
You should have a 10 spline diff. Early axles are 10 spline at the diff, 23 at the CV and 24 at the drive flange.
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  #9  
Old September 19th, 2016, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You should have a 10 spline diff. Early axles are 10 spline at the diff, 23 at the CV and 24 at the drive flange.
Ah good point, but for the rebuilding I'm doing, I only need to be worried about from the swivel ball attachment point on out.

When I move to lockers I'll upgrade the shafts and the diff guts
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Old September 19th, 2016, 06:04 PM
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how about some new brake rotors while you're in there?

new wheel bearings (not sure if that was already on your list.)

new lock washers (or lock nuts)

It looks like the other kits pretty much cover everything.
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  #11  
Old September 19th, 2016, 06:06 PM
Naplm00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
how about some new brake rotors while you're in there?

new wheel bearings (not sure if that was already on your list.)

new lock washers (or lock nuts)

It looks like the other kits pretty much cover everything.
My rotors are good, pads just a few months ago. Yep got the lock washers on the list, and I'll get bearings locally Timken set37.
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  #12  
Old September 19th, 2016, 06:52 PM
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My suggestion. Use an OEM RTC3511 for the hub seals instead of what comes with the kit. They are a better designed seal than FTC2783 or FRC8221.

When you are installing the swivel ball to the axle, there is one bolt that is the "dowel" bolt and is slightly larger. Just make sure you notice so that you get one on each side and not both on the same side.
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  #13  
Old September 19th, 2016, 07:18 PM
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Nice, good info here. It's on the list now
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  #14  
Old September 19th, 2016, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
My suggestion. Use an OEM RTC3511 for the hub seals instead of what comes with the kit. They are a better designed seal than FTC2783 or FRC8221.

When you are installing the swivel ball to the axle, there is one bolt that is the "dowel" bolt and is slightly larger. Just make sure you notice so that you get one on each side and not both on the same side.
Another thing to note is that when you drive in RTC3511, make sure you drive it all the way down until the seal hits the supporting ledge on the inside of the hub. The first time I ever replaced the RTC3511 seals, I merely hammered the seals in to be flush with the top of the hub. Big mistake.

This caused the seals to tear within a few miles and I had a huge swivel grease leak.
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  #15  
Old September 19th, 2016, 08:24 PM
Naplm00
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This is the seal that "retains" the rear bearing correct? Goes on the back side of the hub/disc carrier?
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  #16  
Old September 19th, 2016, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
This is the seal that "retains" the rear bearing correct? Goes on the back side of the hub/disc carrier?
Yes. The drive flange makes a nice seal driver.
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