Rebuilding a R380? And inoperable transmission - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 9th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Rebuilding a R380? And inoperable transmission

How hard is it to build a transmission and how many fancy tools do you need? Is this something that can be done fairly easily but just takes some time? Any good writes up on how to do it?

It's an assumption that the transmission needs to be re-built but it won't move. Went to downshift driving uphill, couldn't get it to go in any gear. Pulled over and then was able to get it to run through the gears, got it in first and took off, made it to 4th and then it wouldn't shift again, coasted off the highway to a stop. Tried to disengage the transfer case- split my hand incision open, cussed a lot, it didn't budge. Fiddling with that did let me run through the gears stopped- motor off. Turned on motor put it in first- went nowhere.

Had it towed, wouldn't roll of the truck. BIG man was able to disengage transfer case and get it to roll.

Rebuilt transmission with less than 50 miles. It was leaking a ton the night before and has since stopped. There was a puddle on the tow truck for the 30 minutes it was up there. Can't tell but think the leak is actually motor oil and not transmission fluid.

Clutch seems to be fine- resistance when you depress it and returns. Can't imagine it's the clutch- which is a new HD clutch with less than 50 miles.

Thanks,
Alex
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  #2  
Old March 9th, 2012, 09:48 AM
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Sounds like your hydraulic fluid escaped and your clutch isn't working. The resistance you are feeling on the clutch pedal might be just the spring.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 09:51 AM
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There were a few grinding noises prior to the lack of function. Not sure if that is users error- been a while since I drove a manual.

What color is hydraulic fluid and where under the truck would that leak from? Have two significant puddles I can inspect in the driveway- one is kind of dead center- rear main seal area and the other is near the front left wheel.

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Sounds like your hydraulic fluid escaped and your clutch isn't working. The resistance you are feeling on the clutch pedal might be just the spring.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Check the level of your clutch master. If it's empty or near empty, you have your answer.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Full.

Kind of a grey color to the fluid is that normal?
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  #6  
Old March 9th, 2012, 10:29 AM
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The clutch I believe takes brake fluid and the tranny takes cherry juice.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Greyish color means it isn't clean, but being full it means that it didn't all leak out either. Oh well, I was hoping for your sake that it was just a clutch master/slave issue.

Looks like the problem could be more serious than that.

Brake fluid is almost clear. ATF from the transmission should be red. They should feel and smell different. Now if somebody put 90 wt gear oil in your transmission instead of ATF (or an appropriate substitute), that could cause a problem.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 11:27 AM
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Could this be a symptom of the transmission being low/out of fluid? How's the engine oil level - thats easy to check.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 11:30 AM
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I'll check engine oil next. But- for my own education what does the engine oil level have to do with the transmission? Will low to no oil make the transmission not work?
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Old March 9th, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Might help determine what's leaking
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  #11  
Old March 9th, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Sucks this is happening with a brand new trans with 50 miles. Is there a reason you are asking about tools instead of screaming @ the person who sold/installed the trans ?

------ Follow up post added March 9th, 2012 11:34 AM ------

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I'll check engine oil next. But- for my own education what does the engine oil level have to do with the transmission? Will low to no oil make the transmission not work?
It doesn't @ all.
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  #12  
Old March 9th, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
Sucks this is happening with a brand new trans with 50 miles. Is there a reason you are asking about tools instead of screaming @ the person who sold/installed the trans ?
It's taken almost 12 months to get the truck to this point (Tdi conversion and some accessories installed)- do you really think screaming will get it fixed?

Just curious about the level of skill required for the task so I can gauge how long it will take to get it fixed. The entire driveline/motor has been re-built at this point. You would think this truck would be running perfectly- not inoperable.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 11:49 AM
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I would certainly think it should be running perfectly. Perhaps a little peer pressure by revealing who did the work might spur them on to better service?
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  #14  
Old March 9th, 2012, 11:50 AM
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How long was the time estimate to do the conversion?

I would think it has to be more than a seal to lose all the fluid at once.
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Old March 9th, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Transmission and transfer case were rebuilt elsewhere. I think I put more miles on the truck yesterday after it was delivered than were put on it prior to delivery.

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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
How long was the time estimate to do the conversion?
Estimate was 3-4 months from when they took the truck. Motor, transmission, and transfer case were at the shop at the same time that they picked up the truck- last April. And twice as much as the high end of the estimate.
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  #16  
Old March 9th, 2012, 12:24 PM
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You need a giant socket (37mm or something like that -- cost me a small fortune to find one), some gear/bearing pullers (don't ask how I do these things), and that is about it. There is something you are supposed to buy to hold it all in place when you turn the big nut, but the impact gun and some rags in the gear made it ok for me. You should also have a [whatever you call the thing that measures stuff on a dial when the end is pushed in which name currently escapes me] with a mount for it.

Been like eight years since I did one. The Land Rover overhaul manual is pretty good for the R380. You can find a pdf of it online easy enough. Harder than an LT230, but not hard in any particular sense.

It is probably something stupid (did you fill the transmission before driving off) or easy like a sticking clutch release or improperly blead slave cylinder etc.

When the truck is off can you shift through all the gears ok?
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  #17  
Old March 9th, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Well if it took 4 times as long as estimated that will give you an idea of time frame it will take for it to be corrected by them.

Sounds like you should take it elsewhere and charge it back to them.
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  #18  
Old March 9th, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Transfer case moves freely-low to high. Goes into 1,2,3,5. Won't go in 4th or reverse. Engine oil level is fine.
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  #19  
Old March 9th, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Have seen transmissions have problems with the front seal leaking after a rebuild. The seal pops back in its housing and since the transmission has an oil pump it pumps all its fluid out. Not a good idea to drive a transmission with no oil in it. Hope it was something simple like that and things go back together soon for you.

So do not drive it without having the transmission fluid level checked. Usually the fluid is red in color.
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  #20  
Old March 9th, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Like Ron said - you want the overhaul manual which you can download from here:
http://www.roversclub.org/html/articles.html

I just finished rebuilding the disco version of the R380 last week and you can use a 1.25" socket instead of the intended 32mm which may be a lot easier to find. Impact gun works fantastic. You'll also want a bearing puller, gear puller, a press and a little creativity and patience since you won't have all the special tools listed in the manual. A dial indicator and magnetic base w/ arm is needed to check clearances as you re-assemble.
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