Rear Wishbone Ball Joint Assembly, Tie Rod End & Drop Arm Ball Joint Rebuild Kit - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 5th, 2011, 02:11 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Rear Wishbone Ball Joint Assembly, Tie Rod End & Drop Arm Ball Joint Rebuild Kit

In the process of replacing the ball joint (RNS 072) that links the rear wishbone/trailing arms to the top of the rear differential... Through my recent experiences I can see that what I thought would be a fairly easy job to get done on a Saturday afternoon is actually quite a pain in the ass that will have to be completed on a Sunday (if I'm lucky). Anyhoo I got the rear ball joint assembly and its receiver out from under the D90 and then found it near impossible to get the actual ball joint assembly out of the cast iron receiver that assembles the two trailing arms together oh so nicely. So I would like to know if anyone has done this job and how they got the rear ball joint out of the receiver and also how to press in a new ball joint assembly. I've found through my searches on the internet that apparently the ball joint assembly is specially pressed in to its position with some sort of pressing tool I would like to add that I don't have alot of real heavy duty tools like pressing tools, just sorta a bunch of wrenches. I do have a ball joint separator which I feel will benefit me in my near future... maybe.

- Also about to install a new tie rod end and drop arm ball joint rebuild kit and get the whole thing realigned.... don't think I'll actually have time to install the new tie rod cause I can't seem to unscrew it from the rod, unless someone has some sort of magical method they used to do this, ha. My old tie rod end seems pretty stuck in place, possibly due to rust on threads (D90 was originally in FL and before that up north). Blaster might do the trick but doubtful. Unless any helpful tips in that department, I am taking the truck to local Firestone in the morning to get aligned and maybe will just have them deal with tie rod end and drop arm ball joint rebuild kit (which also looks like trouble) but will still keep an open mind to suggestions. I feel kinda bad about dropping my baby off at a Firestone but I do notice a lot of Rovers coming and going from their shop so I guess they must know how to deal with them.

-Suggestions on the rear trailing arm ball joint assembly would be appreciated (but if none will ask Firestone if they can get old ball joint assembly out of the receiver thinking they probably have the proper tools)

-Suggestions on Tie Rod End and Drop Arm Ball Joint Repair Kit will be appreciated as well since that might save me some money in labor cost.
Thanks for any input, sorry I wrote a novel on y'alls forum but I'm sure glad it's here.
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  #2  
Old June 5th, 2011, 07:38 AM
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Chris Hinkle
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You definitely need a press for the rear a-arm ball joint - 20 ton or better. Soak front ball joint in Kroll.
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  #3  
Old June 5th, 2011, 09:19 AM
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Baird,
Do you have the green ST I see around the tollway and lovers? I have had the Firestone there swap out my radiator a few weeks back.
Good luck.
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  #4  
Old June 5th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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ive head of people loosening the rear ball joint nut the driving in reverse and slammming on the brakes .... this may pop it out
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  #5  
Old June 5th, 2011, 10:22 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Reese,
Yep that's me.
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  #6  
Old June 5th, 2011, 11:18 AM
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Mike Hammond
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A fly press will get the ball joint out, cut the tabs that the M8 bolts go through off first. Probably won't have one in your garage though I don't. The fly press will push the new one in too.

A good thump on the taper on the axle usually gets the taper free. 4lb lump hammer or heavier is good for this.

Tap the threaded area simultaneously from opposite sides a couple of times, this usually rattles things loose on track rods and drag links. Follow with some localised heat, (propane torch) if it doesn't free off first time.

Drop arm kit is best fitted with the drop arm off the steering box. Getting the drop arm off can be challenging to say the least. I have, on occasion, admitted defeat and taken the truck to the Land Rover garage to get them to remove it.
Sometimes it's impossible to get the thing to stay tight.
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Old June 5th, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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1.) Okay so the tie rod end replacement was a success.
2.) Drop arm ball joint repair kit was mostly a success but did not remove the drop arm from the steering box. Also could not get the entire assembly to squeeze down tight enough to get the circlip back in place so did not install the spring, maybe will install later but the thing seems tight enough for now. I tried compressing the ball joint repair kit under the weight of the car with a stick some blocks of wood and a couple shims but did not work. Did not also replace the race as I can't imagine that it would be terribly worn, basically just the rubber boot was bad on mine the entire joint seemed fine.
3.) Re-assembled rear Aframe old ball joint, will have to take it out another day and get it pressed out and the new one pressed in by some proffesionals.

The alignment went well but the mechanics said the rear wheels seemed to be slightly out of alignment, nothing I've ever noticed but they said the rear wheels seemed to pull slightly to one side (dog tracking? the terminology they used) any ideas to remedy this or is it just typical D90 issue. I've never really noticed this imperfection while driving but maybe someone has some suggestions. Thanks for y'alls input.
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  #8  
Old June 6th, 2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
impossible to get the actual ball joint assembly out of the cast iron receiver that assembles the two trailing arms together oh so nicely.
Forged steel.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 11:39 AM
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On the drop arm ball joint, I used a big "C" clamp to squeeze it all together so I could get the snap ring in. It is a PITA, but without the spring you are going to get some play.

Regards the rear alignment, make sure the trailing arm nuts are fully tightened. If yes, then live with it. The sheep farmers at Solihull who weld the chassis have never been paragons of accuracy. Why do you think most things that bolt to the frame have slots for bolts instead of just holes?

------ Follow up post added June 6th, 2011 04:41 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
...a fairly easy job to get done on a Saturday afternoon...
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  #10  
Old June 6th, 2011, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
1.) Okay so the tie rod end replacement was a success.
2.) Drop arm ball joint repair kit was mostly a success but did not remove the drop arm from the steering box. Also could not get the entire assembly to squeeze down tight enough to get the circlip back in place so did not install the spring, maybe will install later but the thing seems tight enough for now.
You really need the spring, there'll be a lot of play in the steering without it. Use a G clamp and a socket to squeeze the joint up tight then insert the circlip.
Always save the rubber boots from track rod ends, for some reason the rubber always lasts longer than the rubber gaiter that comes with the drop arm kit and they're the same size.
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  #11  
Old June 16th, 2011, 11:19 PM
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Replaced all 3 my ball joints today and the pitman ball too. Here's a couple of links that really helped. I used the socket method to press the upper cup out and in. I bought the ball joint puller from Harbor Freight Pt# 99849, works great without damaging the boot or having to beat the hell out of the housing. Did the job without removing the pitman arm.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14338

http://www.reedx.net/landrover/maint...nkbj/index.htm
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  #12  
Old June 17th, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Great links Dennis- thanks!
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  #13  
Old June 17th, 2011, 02:30 PM
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That's a great link. One one Land Rover I owned I drilled and tapped the bottom plate to take a grease nipple.
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Old June 25th, 2011, 07:46 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Okay so I have tried everything y'all suggested. Can not get the spring in the drop arm ball kit compressed enough to fit the circlip in its slot. I've tried using a jack with extensions and a socket and even jacking up the truck and then letting it down to put the weight of the vehicle on the socket to compress the spring, nothing compresses it enough. I am wondering if perhaps Rovers North could've sent me the wrong drop arm ball kit, maybe the one they sent me is for later Euro-Spec Defenders. Can anyone tell me if part no. RNS084 is the correct repair kit for an NAS D90?
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  #15  
Old June 26th, 2011, 07:51 AM
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Holy shit dude......no offense but perhaps you should stick to whatever it is you do for a living and hire this out before you hurt yourself.
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  #16  
Old June 26th, 2011, 05:18 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Did the top ball seat get properly seated in the drop arm?
Is the O ring hanging up somewhere?
I hate to think of the forces the steering box is being subjected to with the weight of the truck being lowered onto it
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  #17  
Old June 26th, 2011, 11:48 PM
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Tony Sims
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Are you absolutely certain you got both halves of the old socket out of the arm?

There's no difference between US and ROW Defenders as far as the drop arm kit.
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  #18  
Old June 27th, 2011, 11:20 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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yes I did mostly everything it said to do in the url on the thread above:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14338
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  #19  
Old June 27th, 2011, 01:59 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Can you get the arm off the steering box?
It's 1000 times easier if you can.
I'd strip the ball joint & seat kit back down, clean everything up, and start assembly again.
Check the upper seat goes in square and all the way in.
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