Rear wheel bearings: "while I'm at it" list? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 23rd, 2013, 01:20 PM
MonLand
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Rear wheel bearings: "while I'm at it" list?

Apparently, I should listen to my gut feelings more than I do and I now need to replace the rear wheel bearings (well.... Since one failed, I'll do the other side as well).

While I take care of this, anything else I should consider doing? Only items I can thing of are the brake components (check rotors, replace pads, clean/lube pistons).

Anything else that comes to mind (to check/replace/etc)?
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  #2  
Old September 24th, 2013, 04:36 PM
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C'm'on, no hint? Fine.... Anything I should be careful with? Anything different than for the front wheel bearings? I assume it'll be as easy.
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  #3  
Old September 24th, 2013, 04:49 PM
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Replace the seals while you are in there
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  #4  
Old September 24th, 2013, 05:08 PM
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If you're doing the bearings, make sure you swap the races out as well. From there, check the rotors to see if the thickness is in spec (basically just an excuse to use a cool micrometer) , as mentioned, change the seal. Might as well do rear pads and change out the brake hardware including the mounting bolts. Bleed the system too. Not sure how long it's been but since you got the axles pulled.. you could pull the diff and reseal to the housing... and since you now have the driveshaft off- well you might as well change the U joints..

you know how this goes..
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Old September 24th, 2013, 05:17 PM
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Yes, race, bearings and seals will be replaced for sure. Pads very likely. Rotors: depends on specs but unlikely (truck has less than 100K. I always thought that race and bearings had to be replaced together.

Not sure I was planning on taking the diff out.... It was pulled before my time (i.e. a little more than 10 years ago) and does not seem to leak.... I'll lube the U-joints though, of course, that's easy and I do it often!

Fluid wise, I'll be replacing oil in the axle (I'm pretty sure I've done it recently, but....) and the brake fluid (which badly needs to be flushed).
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  #6  
Old September 24th, 2013, 06:11 PM
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Just do the bearings (inner & outer) and axle seal...everything else if it ain't leaking don't touch it!

This will help with the bearing race (if you don't have one):
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Be...ring+race+tool
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  #7  
Old September 25th, 2013, 10:55 PM
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That was definitely the inner bearing..... Even Timken bearings can die.... Must be that Made in France stuff! the outer one is dying too but still ok.

I don't remember having issues removing the bearing when I did the front before... Since the bearing is so hammered onto the stub axle it's not moving, any idea how not to scratch it when I cut it? Any technique you guy recommend?

Apparently, I was due for brake pads. That's the only good news so far!
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #8  
Old September 25th, 2013, 10:57 PM
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I had a badly mauled race basically fused to my stub on my last truck...I ended up getting a spare stub from Will.
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  #9  
Old September 25th, 2013, 11:07 PM
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Run a bead of weld on the race, it will crack and should slide off with a light tap with a hammer & chisel
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  #10  
Old September 26th, 2013, 12:43 AM
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I would get a new stub. That is what I did with my disco. I did get the old race off the old one with a grinder with a cut off wheel and then a dremmel to get it very thin (but not cut all the way through) and then chiseled the side so it split (parallel to the race not perpendicular).
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  #11  
Old September 26th, 2013, 07:40 AM
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Loic, also pick up a couple of these "new style" hub nuts and swap out the double nut/lock washer setup if you still have it. They are available on both sides of the pond with the UK side obviously being cheaper until you add shipping.

http://www.paddockspares.com/rfd1000...-xa159807.html
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  #12  
Old September 26th, 2013, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
Loic, also pick up a couple of these "new style" hub nuts and swap out the double nut/lock washer setup if you still have it. They are available on both sides of the pond with the UK side obviously being cheaper until you add shipping.

http://www.paddockspares.com/rfd1000...-xa159807.html
I've been intrigued by these, any feedback on them-past the fact that it looks like a good way to not have to F with the nut/washer/nut setup.
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  #13  
Old September 26th, 2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post
I've been intrigued by these, any feedback on them-past the fact that it looks like a good way to not have to F with the nut/washer/nut setup.
We pretty much all use them...the only negative is you don't have to fumble with all the nuts and washers everytime you pull it apart! Just slap this nut on, torque, and stake it...and you're good to go.
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  #14  
Old September 26th, 2013, 10:32 AM
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What do you meen by "stake it"?
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Old September 26th, 2013, 10:38 AM
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What do you meen by "stake it"?
Hammer it flat, or use a punch to stake it so it doesn't move/rotate. The stub has a flat spot/indentation on it.
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  #16  
Old September 26th, 2013, 10:39 AM
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There is a flat spot on the stub (and if you are paying attention you install the stub with it on top). Once the nut is tight you take a chisel and flatten the flange on the nut at the flat spot. It stops the nut from vibrating loose. With the old style nut you had to bend the washer over the flat areas of the nut.
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Old September 26th, 2013, 01:22 PM
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I swear I bought replacement bearing in the past 12 months at the same time I got the seals and whatnot.... Anyway, picked up 2 timken bearings this morning (with 2 coming tomorrow with the brake pads) and stopped by the dealership to get the proper replacement joint washers (paper gaskets; yes, I could have used something else, I know... But that worked for many years! ).

I'll attempt to cut what's left over of the bearing tonight. My welding setup (gas-less) would likely throw too much stuff around, but I love that idea!

Looks like I should be able to drive the truck tomorrow night! MAR is still looking good for me!
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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  #18  
Old September 26th, 2013, 01:27 PM
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I have to go to a school thing at some point tonight but if you can work around it you are welcome to come by and I can help (have gas welder and decent vice etc). I might have a spare stub too but I think it needs sleeving iirc. Worst case I have a parts truck here if we need to grab a stub until you can replace it.
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Old September 26th, 2013, 01:31 PM
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I have a brand new stub here I believe, if you wanted to bum it for your repair and replace at a later date.
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  #20  
Old September 26th, 2013, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I would get a new stub. That is what I did with my disco. I did get the old race off the old one with a grinder with a cut off wheel and then a dremmel to get it very thin (but not cut all the way through) and then chiseled the side so it split (parallel to the race not perpendicular).
Well... That was not the plan, but after grinding for the past two hours I just just realized that the bearing somehow fused with the stub.... Not sure what the stub should look like but I don't like the look if this one! Time to hit vendors I guess!
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