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  #1  
Old April 18th, 2015, 08:20 AM
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rear wheel bearings

ive got quite a few wheel bearing/hub repairs under my belt by now. i have only had to readjust the bearings a few times.

the rear wheel bearings on my classic are always working themselves loose, both driver and passenger side. it has a detroit locker and two piece axles. i have never heard of people having issues with bearings and the locking differentials . i converted from 10 to 24 spline years ago, i dont recall having the wheel bearings working loose until the detroit a couple of years ago. i used hubs and stubs from a 96 disco
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  #2  
Old April 18th, 2015, 09:55 AM
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it must be because you went the cheapfuck route

I've never had an issue with ARB differentials
I did have a loose rear caliper yesterday though.
I repacked all the bearings on the Tdi LWB a few months ago and somehow the rear caliper worked loose and was rattling.


When you say they get loose--do you have to retighten the hub nuts?
Did the wheel/hub assembly feel wobbly-is that how you knew?

.
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  #3  
Old April 18th, 2015, 09:59 AM
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Are the hub nuts working loose? Are you folding the lock washer correctly?
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  #4  
Old April 18th, 2015, 10:13 AM
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I dont cheap fuck the hubs and brakes. I guess the hub nuts are working loose and yes to the locking washer. I am having to tighten the hub nuts as tight as I am can and they are still getting loose. Im going to replace the bearings and races today TBD....
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  #5  
Old April 18th, 2015, 10:24 AM
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If the nuts are physically held in place with the lock washers how can they loosen?

Are you torquing per spec?
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  #6  
Old April 18th, 2015, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
If the nuts are physically held in place with the lock washers how can they loosen? Are you torquing per spec?
Because the tab washer is a stupid design. I thought there was a new design you can upgrade to but maybe I am wrong.
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  #7  
Old April 18th, 2015, 10:34 AM
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sounds like a race might not be properly seated. If bearings are dis colored then possibly too much wear from either contamination or over tightening, but less likely. Detroits shouldn't matter in the slightest.
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Old April 18th, 2015, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Because the tab washer is a stupid design. I thought there was a new design you can upgrade to but maybe I am wrong.
In what way? With the washer folded tight over both nuts how does anything move?
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  #9  
Old April 18th, 2015, 12:14 PM
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For that nut, see here. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ken-30756.html
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  #10  
Old April 18th, 2015, 12:46 PM
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Phillip, I've only ever used the old style 2 nuts/lockwasher system

Tighten the first nut and slightly loosen 2-3 times to seat the bearings.
The last time, I tighten the nut then back it off just slightly, put the lockwasher on, put the 2nd hub nut on and tighten.
Then fold the lockwasher in on the 1st nut, and out on the 2nd nut.
Never had one loosen. /#fingers-crossed-now


.
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  #11  
Old April 18th, 2015, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Phillip, I've only ever used the old style 2 nuts/lockwasher system

Tighten the first nut and slightly loosen 2-3 times to seat the bearings.
The last time, I tighten the nut then back it off just slightly, put the lockwasher on, put the 2nd hub nut on and tighten.
Then fold the lockwasher in on the 1st nut, and out on the 2nd nut.
Never had one loosen. /#fingers-crossed-now


.
thats what i have always done. Ive done probably a dozen over the years and have only had two excluding these cause me trouble.
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  #12  
Old April 18th, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Think I'll check mine after reading this. I have a Detroit and just finished the White Rim Trail @ Canyonlands UT, a 100 miles of some pretty rough but mostly level trail.
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  #13  
Old April 18th, 2015, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
thats what i have always done. Ive done probably a dozen over the years and have only had two excluding these cause me trouble.
So what exactly is happening? Are you saying the bearings are loose, but the nut have not moved or are you saying the nuts are moving?
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Old April 18th, 2015, 06:58 PM
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The old design is such a old design. I've seen 1970 cars with better designs for wheel bearings

I have RFD100000 on all my solid axle trucks and haven't had a loose bearing yet. Before using RFD100000 they would come loose a lot.
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  #15  
Old April 18th, 2015, 07:01 PM
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For those that are having bearings come loose, are you replacing the lock washer? I've seen them get worn out allowing the nuts to rotate.
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  #16  
Old April 18th, 2015, 09:57 PM
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i replaced the entire hub and bearings, i reused the grease seal. will report back with findings. i hate that fucking lock washer, going to order the new style nut.

on another note when did land rover change the drive flange bolts?
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  #17  
Old April 18th, 2015, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
For those that are having bearings come loose, are you replacing the lock washer? I've seen them get worn out allowing the nuts to rotate.
They are not supposed to be reused.
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  #18  
Old April 19th, 2015, 12:24 AM
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I've reused plenty. And been running Detroits a decade. I basically do what Jeff B. says , I wheel in very rocky Colorado and I don't have loose bearings, so my guess is something else is up...
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  #19  
Old April 19th, 2015, 04:38 AM
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You say you did a conversion from 10 spline rrc to 24 spline disco. I recently did the same and found that the disco stubs use a different style of spacer than the rrc. Do you recall swapping in the thin, keyed washer during your conversion? It goes between the outer bearing and the first nut.
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  #20  
Old April 19th, 2015, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
You say you did a conversion from 10 spline rrc to 24 spline disco. I recently did the same and found that the disco stubs use a different style of spacer than the rrc. Do you recall swapping in the thin, keyed washer during your conversion? It goes between the outer bearing and the first nut.
IIRC I reused the washer from the 10spline stub axle.. ilI'll order those when I order wheel seals. The passenger side hub felt "good" so I left it alone. Thanks for mentioning that, I figured I had my bases covered with the stub/hub
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