rear vibration on 110 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 12:02 PM
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rear vibration on 110

Under load I've had a rear vibration for a while now and want to address it. My 110 has a RTE 3" lift w cranked fronts and a double cardon GBR shaft, but stock trailing arms and shaft in rear. Does anybody with a 3" lifted 110 have a double cardon rear shaft to manage vibration, or would cranked trailing arms likely solve my issue?
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  #2  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Under load I've had a rear vibration for a while now and want to address it. My 110 has a RTE 3" lift w cranked fronts and a double cardon GBR shaft, but stock trailing arms and shaft in rear. Does anybody with a 3" lifted 110 have a double cardon rear shaft to manage vibration, or would cranked trailing arms likely solve my issue?
You shouldn't need a double cardon in the rear as you have plenty of length. I was running 5" of lift with no driveshaft changes. You can change you pinion angle slightly with some adjustable trailing arms (RTE and a few others), or maybe check your U joint - which sounds like the issue.
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  #3  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 12:35 PM
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Mark, I don't think that cranking the trailing arms inherently does anything to affect driveline geometry. The crank in the arm affects how much travel is left in the frame bushings for droop.

I believe that for driveline geometry what matters is how long the center-to-center length of the arm is. More length = less pinion angle.

I'm not entirely sure that changing the rear pinion angle would solve the vibration problem, however...
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Pinion angle is off due to lift. Longer springs and stock trailing arms force front of pinion to lft up. The RTE arms come with spacers to lengthen the geometry and correct the angle.
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 12:50 PM
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so rte arms should fix prob doug? no new driveshaft needed?
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 12:55 PM
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so rte arms should fix prob doug? no new driveshaft needed?
Yes. That shaft is so long I don't see you being in double cardon territory.
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 01:00 PM
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you need picture two, you probably have four. Because of the ball joint on top of the diff, as you push down the diff with longer springs the short stock arms force the pinion angle @ the front to lift up. Doesn't take much to get a vibration. Lift/longer spring results seem to vary widely from truck to truck. What causes a vibration on one doesn't on another. My 110 had no vibration but ate u joints despite frequent synthetic greasing. I had OME 2755's and a 1 inch spacer in the rear.
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
How old are the U-joints? It might be worth pulling the rear shaft to inspect /replace them, and go for a test drive without it to make sure that is where the vibe is coming from.

-Jeff
I check ujoints for play everytime Im under vehicle, but will check again
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  #9  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 01:30 PM
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Maybe pull the driveshaft off and have it rebalanced. My Tom Woods was out of balance when I first got it. Chased a vibration for six months until it was suggested to me to get it balanced. Did the trick.
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jrose609 View Post
Maybe pull the driveshaft off and have it rebalanced. My Tom Woods was out of balance when I first got it. Chased a vibration for six months until it was suggested to me to get it balanced. Did the trick.
That WAS plan A, but I don't want to throw money at the problem without a consensus.
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Old June 3rd, 2013, 01:53 PM
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The pinion should be parrellel to the output on the t case. RTE links fix this with spacers
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Old June 5th, 2013, 08:27 AM
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Where does the A-arm extension fall into in all of this?
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Old June 5th, 2013, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by nuclearmonkey View Post
Where does the A-arm extension fall into in all of this?
A arm would be the pivot point that would change the pinion angle as the trailing arms are shortened or legthened.
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Old June 5th, 2013, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrose609 View Post
Maybe pull the driveshaft off and have it rebalanced. My Tom Woods was out of balance when I first got it. Chased a vibration for six months until it was suggested to me to get it balanced. Did the trick.
I bought some Tom Woods DC shafts for my D1 a few years back and brand new out of the box they had a little low speed vibe (tough to tell high speed with TDI, 5in springs and 36in swampers) but then I bought one for my D2 a couple months ago and it has been smooth as silk.
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