Thanks for the input Eric,
I will prob add it . . .just trying to get her back up to specs. Of course I prob should have thought of that before re-mounting the tyre mount as I used black silicone to seal the new outer plate when I bolted it back up.
Yeah I know the threaded washers . . . and I figured I would need the lugs for spacing. Going to just get new ones as to much of a pain to re-galv the old rusted ones.
Just a note: I had gotten a new outer plate because it was cheap. Of course it too looked like $#^% - crappy galv coating and all scratched right from LR UK. Handled it though. The Hammered Coat enamel that rustoleum sells actually worked awesome. The color nearly matches the wheel color and the texture looks really clean. Recoated the washers with Cold Galv compound at going back together looking better than new.
*** another pointer for anyone considering rear door are reconditioning. When remounting the rear door sill used stainless hardware to remount and use 4mm machine (recessed) screws with nuts. The 4mm machine (recessed) will drop right in near flush where the 6mm OEM screwed into the sill plate. The OEM srews screwed into the floor and the heads sat about 1/8" above the plate. With the 4mm they , again, are newar flush and should the door hinges wear down before you notice the extra clearance could save the finish and/or the door IMO.
You can use a bit of mastic on your finger tip hole the nut on and allow you to manipulate it to the screw.
Of course simply using a counter sink bit will work if you are going to paint or re-galv. I chose to replace the sill because it is only 12 bucks at RN
My door rusted out because the hinges had worn out and the door had been dragging on the sill screws. This of course was before I owned her - stupid people should not own such a vehicle. A simple 4.00 kit from RDS could have saved the original one.