Rear tire bracket vibrations - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 12th, 2015, 07:36 PM
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Rear tire bracket vibrations

I just tightened up the rear tire bracket on my 97. Still seems to vibrate a fair amount. Also, lubed up the fittings. Anyone else out there got any tips and tricks? I really wish it had two points where it closed instead of one. Seems like this is the main cause.

TIA.
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  #2  
Old May 12th, 2015, 07:41 PM
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The rear door really wasn't designed to hold such a massive tire. The best solution is to mount a rear door spare tire carrier like what Brewie212 on here makes or the mantec one for a more oem look.
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  #3  
Old May 12th, 2015, 07:58 PM
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I have one on my Defender and it has the high-lift jack holder built in.
Can get you a pic, came from Extreme 4X4 in the UK.
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  #4  
Old May 13th, 2015, 06:07 PM
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i wll try and msg Brewie and look at extreme 4x4 to see what they have. Was not sure if there was something that could be done to the stock to quiet it down. I did not buy it for hearing a pin drop but it seems everything I find one squeak another pops up.

TIA.
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  #5  
Old May 13th, 2015, 07:36 PM
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One day I hope my truck is sorted such that I can identify the root cause of a vibrating rear tire bracket
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  #6  
Old May 13th, 2015, 07:43 PM
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Brian Kandefer
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Just had a bunch of new hinges, brackets and stops made if anyone is interested. I need to find a poly pc that will bolt on that is adjustable to help put tension on carrier to keep from rattling. These are same as stock but don't have a bumper yet.
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  #7  
Old May 14th, 2015, 07:47 AM
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What has worked for me is to move the wheel further back on the stock carrier. I did this by removing the spacers so the wheel can slide back about 2 inches closer to the door. I also keep the hinges lubed. I'm carrying a 33" Km2 on a genuine wolf steel wheel for reference.

Have you checked your rear shock bushes? When they start to go they throw the same sounds. It tricked me once.

Clay
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  #8  
Old May 14th, 2015, 02:15 PM
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Brewie,

Keep me posted on the hinges. I might take mine all apart and get it powder coated as it is showing its age. Shocks and bushings seem to be good. I think most of my sound now is the fiberglass top rubbing somewhere but then again, once I fix something a new squeak pops up.

1of40,

I will check the tire mount and get a idea of what you were describing and see. I have lubed and tightened it all.
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  #9  
Old May 14th, 2015, 02:57 PM
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There isn't much to a soft top tire carrier.
Do the following:
1. Close door.
2. Rock tire back and forth.

Do you feel play in the door moving? If so adjust the catch and or check the hinges. A hinge rebuild kit for the door costs nothing.

Also check the rubber stopper for the carrier. Is it hitting and holding against the door?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #10  
Old May 14th, 2015, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spook View Post
Brewie,

Keep me posted on the hinges. I might take mine all apart and get it powder coated as it is showing its age. Shocks and bushings seem to be good. I think most of my sound now is the fiberglass top rubbing somewhere but then again, once I fix something a new squeak pops up.

1of40,

I will check the tire mount and get a idea of what you were describing and see. I have lubed and tightened it all.
Sorry Rich, I just realized you are talking soft top carrier. My long winded story was re my SW rear door set up.

Clay
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  #11  
Old May 19th, 2015, 05:21 PM
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I narrowed mine down to two issues. the joint right behind the carrier has play but the bold is torqued down really good and i greased it as well. the other is right at the lock and seems to be the main cause. wonder if there are rubber stops that can be attached at the top and bottom (left side) of the door to add equal pressure and help support the lock. like in todays modern cars have the screw out rubber tabs on trunks.
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  #12  
Old May 19th, 2015, 05:26 PM
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Can you post pics of the part that has play.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #13  
Old May 19th, 2015, 10:22 PM
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Here a few brackets that I have available.
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  #14  
Old May 20th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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The bolt is the center has the most play out of the whole bracket. I think when I get the whole setup re powder coated i plan to instal rubber between the bracket and the chassis and make sure all the internals are in decent shape. Hopefully, I can find some black hardware and well and get rid of these big philips mounts.
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  #15  
Old May 20th, 2015, 05:19 PM
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Worst picture ever but it looks like you are missing the rubber stopper that goes over the bolt that would hold it all tight together.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #16  
Old May 21st, 2015, 01:53 AM
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Or he might be missing the duct tape which also covers that bolt
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  #17  
Old May 21st, 2015, 06:31 AM
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I just ordered what I think is the bumper from RN this last weekend.

McMaster had a few integrated options that might be a better solution where the bolt and rubber bumper are better joined.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-bumpers/=x9x2hv
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  #18  
Old May 21st, 2015, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
I just ordered what I think is the bumper from RN this last weekend. McMaster had a few integrated options that might be a better solution where the bolt and rubber bumper are better joined. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-bumpers/=x9x2hv
The true rubber stopper is very solid and available.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #19  
Old May 21st, 2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
Here a few brackets that I have available.
Are you building a new carrier or just a refresh to the factory design?
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  #20  
Old May 21st, 2015, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736 View Post
Are you building a new carrier or just a refresh to the factory design?
I do a lot of everything
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