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  #1  
Old August 23rd, 2014, 02:23 PM
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Landan
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Rear sway pic

Overextended rear springs and noticing sway bushings wedged underneath lower spring retainer.

Anyone have a pic handy I could use to see how suppose to be?



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  #2  
Old August 23rd, 2014, 02:46 PM
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the end links need to be below the axle. Personally I would remove the sway bar all together.
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  #3  
Old August 23rd, 2014, 02:48 PM
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Or go with the x-engineering dislocatable unit.. It's on my build thread..
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  #4  
Old August 23rd, 2014, 03:21 PM
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Guess that should have been fairly obvious. Pain to do all the same.

I'll look up the dislocatable option as don't want to repeat each time.

Thanks



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  #5  
Old December 31st, 2014, 06:33 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I have a piggyback question on this please. Could someone get me two measurements on their defender rear anti-sway bar? In the picture below, if you drop a plumb line from the center of the frame bushing you get the red line. Then take a line from the center of the axle mounting eye to that red line horizontal to the ground to get the green line. I'd like the measurements for both the green and red lines.

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tia,
charles
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  #6  
Old December 31st, 2014, 07:07 PM
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http://store.toddcosuspensions.com/swaybardropkit.html

cheap & done.


.
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  #7  
Old December 31st, 2014, 07:13 PM
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@Jeff Br - I meant the center of the bush. The measurements should help although I'm not sure how different the frame profiles are between the defender and the disco- see below for more

@Jeff Ba - Thanks, but that's not really what I need. My application is unique in that I both have a non-standard frame setup (custom rear hangers with a different height and width) and the truck is unladen so I am unsure what a "normal" height would be. So I'm trying to make an educated guess as to where to put the bushings on my frame

Thanks,
charles
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  #8  
Old December 31st, 2014, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Ill go measure. The widths of the frame and the distance between the rails are the same.
Not on mine, but no matter - I have the width covered

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I know the depth of the frame is different on series trucks (109 is tallet than 88), Id assume the same on the coilers.
I have a D90 to use as a reference (without sway bars though) which is why defender measurements would be best because I can then extrapolate from those. But at the very least the red line length and the "at rest" angle of the bar from the disco would do it as well.

Basically all I want to do is make sure I put it at a point that is roughly in the center of the travel so it's not too much one way or the other and restricting compression or droop more than usual. I'm sure you get the idea.
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  #9  
Old December 31st, 2014, 07:52 PM
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Briggs, I just re-read your post. Keep in mind I am using a 110 frame with a modified rear section and a 109 crossmember, and RRC axles but for all intents consider it a 110 as I can measure off the bottom of the tub for height reference.

So I guess the ideal measurement is from a 110 including the distance from the bottom of the tub to the bottom of the skid plate where the bush mounts as well.

But I'll take what I can get
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Old December 31st, 2014, 07:56 PM
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Updated pic with additional measurement shown.

Pretty please.

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  #11  
Old December 31st, 2014, 10:20 PM
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Charles, if it helps, let's get together this weekend you can measure my classic in the shop..
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  #12  
Old December 31st, 2014, 11:00 PM
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Kind of weird seeing my truck and pics for your demo of measurements, but glad it helps. You can see how warped sway mount and bushing got to be and how I overextended them rolling the bushings up. As warped as mine are, don't think best one to measure from but if you don't get what's needed let me know and happy to put back on lift and measure.
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  #13  
Old January 1st, 2015, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
the end links need to be below the axle. Personally I would remove the sway bar all together.
I blew out my stripped out sway bar attachments on the skid plate in Moab, and ended up having to drive 700 miles, at highway speeds, back home with the rear sway bar removed.
My stock D90 suspension drove like a squirrel without the sway bar on the rear. Never realized how important it was for highway stability until it was removed. It's back on now.
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  #14  
Old January 1st, 2015, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
My stock D90 suspension drove like a squirrel without the sway bar on the rear.
hmm...i've driven my 90 since 2011 with no swaybar and the truck is totally solid on the highway. are you sure there's nothing else wrong with your truck?
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  #15  
Old January 1st, 2015, 06:00 AM
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ok...to be accurate..."totally solid" meaning: has broken down several times due to my own idiocy, can't go very quickly, pulls to the left when braking hard, had loose steering until i tightened the swivel ball tension.

so...not solid at all...but not squirrely
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  #16  
Old January 1st, 2015, 08:11 AM
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Charles, I can put a tape on my 110 for you?

Clay
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  #17  
Old January 1st, 2015, 11:52 AM
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Clay that would be sweet, thanks. All three measurements please.
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  #18  
Old January 1st, 2015, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
I blew out my stripped out sway bar attachments on the skid plate in Moab, and ended up having to drive 700 miles, at highway speeds, back home with the rear sway bar removed.
My stock D90 suspension drove like a squirrel without the sway bar on the rear. Never realized how important it was for highway stability until it was removed. It's back on now.
I took off both my swaybars in Moab in 2010. Drove 1400 miles home and didn't kill any nuns. Been driving it without sways ever since.
That said, I'll be reinstalling a modified rear sway bar for some stability in turns and primarily offroad.
Something like this.
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  #19  
Old January 1st, 2015, 05:10 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks for the input everyone. When I got my D90 the PO had already removed the sway bars so I've never missed them, although it can certainly feel tippy on corners at speed. At one point when my daughter started driving it I considered putting them on with quick disconnects but never got around to it (and likely never will at this point since I just used the front sway bar I had bought for it years ago).

This is for my EV project which is a mall crawler so I don't need to worry about articulation, and if I ever did, they could be removed. What I ended up doing was lowering it to the bump stops and chose a position that did cause any binding or interference of anything, then lifted it up until the axles were lifted by the bar and verified it was well past the spring height, so am pretty sure it's a decent fit.

This is what it looks like mocked up.

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The reason I wanted to get this done is because I plan on pulling the suspension so I can flip the frame over and finish up all my mods, but don't want to have to put it back on the suspension again before galvy and this is the last thing that needs the suspension for reference. Sorry to be impatient

Anyway, thanks again for the feedback everyone.
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  #20  
Old January 1st, 2015, 06:07 PM
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Not reading the whole thread, would a rear sway bar be helpful to mock up the mounts? You are welcome to borrow mine with all of the hardware (and links).
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