Rear Spring seat wedges? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 7th, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Rear Spring seat wedges?

Is there a source for wedges or angled spacers to correct the tilt of the lower spring seats when an upward pinion angle is used on the rear axle?
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  #2  
Old July 8th, 2011, 05:28 AM
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Some big fat washers under one of the bolts?

although that won't "spread the load" nicely would it.
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Old July 8th, 2011, 06:49 AM
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If you have enough of an upward tilt to need a *wedge* you are running the pinion at an angle that might work nicely for a double cardon drive shaft but will have a negative effect on the oiling of the outer pinion bearing. Not just making that up........
RTE used to make wedges out of the same stock they made spacers out of.
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  #4  
Old July 8th, 2011, 08:09 AM
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I am running a double cardon MB. The 88 coiler chassis is so short it's necessary unless I ran really short springs. My 3rd's are built on series housings so I have the fill on the 3rd which lets me overfill it a bit for the pinion. I'll post a photo later.
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Old July 8th, 2011, 09:32 AM
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If you can make a simple drawing Raloid Tool on 236 at the Mechanicville/Halfmoon line will make them for you. There work is good and fairly cheap.

Eric
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Old July 8th, 2011, 09:32 AM
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try any alignment shop for leaf spring caster shims and modify to fit between the seat and the axle?
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Old July 8th, 2011, 01:38 PM
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Not to open a can of fabrication worms, but might it not be better to cut the axle tubes, rotate and re-weld? It wouldn't be a huge job.
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  #8  
Old July 8th, 2011, 01:45 PM
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Ummm, yes it would.
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Old July 8th, 2011, 02:05 PM
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I guess it's all relative to your comfort level. I'd chop and weld in a heartbeat.
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  #10  
Old July 8th, 2011, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY View Post
My 3rd's are built on series housings so I have the fill on the 3rd which lets me overfill it a bit for the pinion. I'll post a photo later.
Any specific reason you used a series 3rd member housing, are your running coiler axle tubes or series.....Just curious.
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  #11  
Old July 8th, 2011, 04:03 PM
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I bought them already built as a pair with gears and the compressor, that's all. Full coiler suspension and axles.
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Old July 8th, 2011, 04:11 PM
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Why would you have to cut the entire tube? Just take the mounts off and rotate them to where you need. Other than that, get creative I guess?
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  #13  
Old July 8th, 2011, 04:15 PM
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Sounds like he just likes to cut and weld things.
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  #14  
Old July 8th, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Try Blue Torch Fab if you want steel degree shims. Perhaps those would work?

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Search.aspx?q=degree+shims
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Old July 8th, 2011, 09:54 PM
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Kevin:

No personal experience with this, but if you are set on running it this way, then why not "keep it simple" and just weld on new perches at the correct angle.

like these:

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk...acket-38-p.asp

just an idea.
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  #16  
Old July 10th, 2011, 05:51 PM
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I think I also have some wedges if you want to try it.

Personally I'd get rid of the DC shaft. I'd be surprised if it really has more angle capacity than a conventional shaft (I didn't say stock shaft). Expensive. Hard to maintain. Hard to repair. Weaker. Generally create more vibrations than they cure. Force you to compromise suspension geometry and drive line angles. Make you have to overfill diffs in an attempt to counteract poor pinion oiling. I could go on and on.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #17  
Old July 10th, 2011, 05:59 PM
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MB, I've done all the work to get the driveline angle perfect, it's not going anywhere now. The coiler chassis is pretty much impossible to run with a conventional shaft, it pushed 15 degrees at rest. With parallell pinions I got wicked vibes at coast and went through u joints in 4k miles.
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  #18  
Old July 10th, 2011, 06:50 PM
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Cool. I'd say you've got it sorted then.

Just curious.....is the drive shaft length different with the Designa chassis vs the leafer? I'm doing an 88" coil chassis for an SI and it just seems like I should move the axle back a bit.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #19  
Old July 11th, 2011, 04:17 PM
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Rear shaft length is approx. 23" from mounting surface to mounting surface.
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  #20  
Old July 13th, 2011, 04:42 PM
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Problem solved for 12 bucks. Just need to drill 2 holes.
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