rear quater panel replacement. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 01:59 AM
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jeroen
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rear quater panel replacement.

I noticed some corrosion by the rear quater panel where it touches the rear crossmember.
I also noticed that this is a common problem with the defenders like the foot wells. Did any of you have replaced his quater panels? I have found some stuff on google, but would like to know if one of you guy's have done it.
Can this been done without taking the body capping of?
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  #2  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Are you talking about the tabs off the rear cross-member that attach to the tub?
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  #3  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 02:06 PM
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I will be doing this myself soon.

As far as I have seen, you will have to do considerable disassembly which may include drilling of spot welds and removal of factory mastic. I believe the cappings will have to be removed also.
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  #4  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 02:31 PM
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There is a second piece behind the panels that runs the entire length that is thicker aluminium. On my series truck the corrosion was so bad it ate through this panel as well. I took a couple peices our of a donor vehicle and welded them in. In short, replacing the back of the quarters may not fix it. The solution is to isolate the metal with rubber sheet and washers and spray the crap out of the bolts so they don't corrode and eat the aluminium.
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  #5  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 09:02 PM
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jeroen
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Thanks Guy's!

For Mike: Yes where the tabs meet the aluminum.

I notices some paint blisters, nothing strange to a defender so i start poking it a little bit, Man i poked right thru it! It was just white powder. Not the Mexican white powder
So i started to clean as much as i can and this is the end result! see the picture!

Ok i know you have to remove the corner body capping's but what about the roof/tub connection?
To drill out the rivets and the spot welds is the easy part But as long i can do this with out removing my entire roof section i will be happy!
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  #6  
Old December 4th, 2012, 09:54 PM
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You may or may not have to remove the capping. The earlier trucks had the corner piece that didn't run under the capping. The newer style, at least from the mid nineties from what I have seen, it goes under the capping.
As mentioned above you have a aluminum piece that runs the entire length of the rear in that area to add structure. From your picture it looks like it might have eaten that away too.
Since the tab is directly connected to the rear cross-member/frame it has always been a area for galvanic action, corrosion due to the grounding and dis-similar metals. The remedy is to isolate the two metals as best you can.
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  #7  
Old December 4th, 2012, 10:31 PM
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yep my corner body capping is running under the tub capping. I know you can still remove this. But i am just wondering if i can remove the quater panel with the tub body capping still on there. I know i have to drill out the rivets etc. I just don't want to remove my entire roof!

if the new panel is in i will try to isolate it as much as a can! any tips on isolating?
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  #8  
Old December 5th, 2012, 09:38 PM
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I would think so but you have a rivet at the top, fender side, under the capping. You should be able to get to it from the inside, however it won't be pretty.
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  #9  
Old December 5th, 2012, 10:16 PM
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It's way easier with the tub off. The rear panel has the door jamb spot welded to it, and this also has a turned under angle piece that requires some prying and cursing to remove/install. This is clearly "indicator" rot. I am almost 100% positive you will find further hell if you poke around some more. I'd start looking for a gooder tub, as it might be more cost effective to put on a newer one.
You may also try cutting away the bad stuff, sectioning in good material and either PanelBond-ing it in or sandwiching it with rivet plates inside and out or all of the above.
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  #10  
Old December 6th, 2012, 01:20 AM
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yep i was already afraid of that! Thanks for the heads up. Ok i might source a new tub. But where i live there will be no defender dealer/ vendor in a 1000 miles or so. We do have a lot of aluminum welders in town! So maybe the easiest way is to cut out the bad part and weld in a new section?

I will source for a new tub and bring it up north in time.
So just for future corrosion prevention what would be the best method to isolate the aluminum?
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  #11  
Old December 6th, 2012, 06:36 AM
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Paint, paint, paint and then rubber sheet or plastic washers. The problem then lies with the bolt touching the metal and the aluminum. In taking apart a few trucks I found that the factory primed some of the parts but with a light coat. The primer started to fail and then you had metal contact and corrosion. If you also seal the bolts and nuts from the atmosphere you will not have as much of a problem. (in other words paint them) The better a ground the more of a problem you will have. Since those tabs are directly connected to the frame they are always an issue. In the re-builds that I am doing I paint everything before it is installed. I hope that helps.
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  #12  
Old December 6th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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On my truck, there was no factory primer, or it was microns thick. It was just paint over chromate.

Almost anything you can do is going to improve the situation.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 01:47 PM
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thanks guys! I will start doing this project soon. Just need to find the right approach to o this
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  #14  
Old December 7th, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Hi Skeena,

I just removed my rear quarters today.

You will need to drill out many rivets and also many spot welds.

You must remove the rivets from the rear capping and you must be able to lift the capping above the tub at least. If you can do that, you do not have to remove the capping.

There are two steel rivets that connect the bottom of the rear quarter onto the long cross-bracket that extends across the tub. You can grind these out from beneath the truck.

OK.

Now onto the corrosion.

It is absolutely clear to me that the corrosion begins not at the bolts but at the very bottom of the rear quarter panel where it touches the steel bracket on the crossmember!! The aluminum corrosion then creeps upward on the bracket side. There is absolutely no corrosion present from the fastener as evidenced by the rear of the cross-bracket. There is absolutely no corrosion on the cross-bracket itself.

The obvious solution is to paint and/or separate the crossmember bracket from the rear quarter panel. A thick coat of epoxy primer would do. Or, if you do not have the option of priming the panel, then a thin sheet of plastic, like HDPE or Nylon will do.

I'll take some pictures tomorrow morning.
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  #15  
Old December 7th, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Hi Ed,
Thanks!!!!!! You would think this is a big problem for most of the Defender owners? Where did you order your rear quater panels?

Do you think it will be ok if you go with a galvanized bracket? Or will there still be corrosion problems with galvanized steel?
Man i would love to see some pics how you pulled it of!!! It kept me awake at night to solve this problem
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  #16  
Old December 7th, 2012, 10:28 PM
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I don't have any clue how one would get a new panel on with the tub bolted in place. You have to get some space between the chassis mount and the bottom edge of the tub to allow you to sufficiently angle the panel enough to be able to get the bent-under part (that has the two big rivets) up and in where it belongs. You gotta kinda force it in there. Once you do that the rear panel tilts up straight, and then you get busy with rivets, Panel Bond and a beer. Forget ever getting new 1/4 inch rivets back in, use bolts.
This has been a problem for all Series/Defender owners since the beginning of time.
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  #17  
Old December 7th, 2012, 10:30 PM
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This is a huge problem with Defenders that I have seen, especially those of the early vintage

I ordered my panels from SP Land Rover LTD (http://www.splandrovers.com/DEFENDER...G_p/sp102l.htm).

I'm not sure if going with a galvanized bracket will change the situation much. If left unprotected, the aluminum and zinc will react together.

The basic issue from I saw with my truck is that the original Defender paint is too thin and there is no primer. So the aluminum eventually contacts the steel on the crossmember and the result as you can imagine is corrosion.
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  #18  
Old December 7th, 2012, 10:49 PM
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Ok lots of primer it is!

ps how long did it take to replace that panel?
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  #19  
Old December 7th, 2012, 11:35 PM
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I just found this short movie on you tube. Looks so easy

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  #20  
Old December 8th, 2012, 05:29 AM
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Haven't replaced it yet - Just removed it.
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