rear pinion angle correction - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 5th, 2007, 04:37 PM
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rear pinion angle correction

I have an 88" coiler and thus a very short rear prop shaft. I run a tom woods rear shaft, standard 2 ujoints. I am getting drive vibes when I let off the gas for just a second at any speed over 40 MPH or if I feather the gas at speed. I know the answer is to get a CV rear prop shaft but the question is how do I get the rear pinion in line for it. I measured everything with a slope finder and have a 15 degree working angle on the tcase joint and an 11 degree working angle on the rear joint acounting for 2 degrees of pinion rotation at cruise. I'd prefer to not spend a fortune of course. I read in the F.A.Q. that someone had simply installed the rear triangle shaped trailing arm bushings from the front instead of the rear and thus effectively shortened the rear link by a half inch. Is this felt to be an OK thing to do? What is the relation of link length to pinion angle? 1/2" equals x degrees? I need 8 degrees of correction to get within 3 degrees of in line with the tcase at the min. I guess using an a arm extension from RT could be done in addition too. At these angles now I am need of new joints every year at the minimum. I have RT rear links and could get Keith to cut and reweld them too I guess.

KB
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  #2  
Old April 5th, 2007, 04:51 PM
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Mike Hansen
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Kevin,
I made a set of trailing links to the correct length so my diff was at the angle needed. I measured by taking the links off then reconnecting them to the axel only. Then with the axel suported with ratchet straps I move the axel forward untill I had the desired pinion angle. I then measured how much shorter (or longer) the link had to be by putting it up nect to the frame bushing and checking the difference in length.

Hope that makes since.

Keith at Rover Tracks sell a trailing arm that you can shim to the correct angle.

Cheers

MH
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  #3  
Old April 5th, 2007, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
I have an 88" coiler and thus a very short rear prop shaft. I run a tom woods rear shaft, standard 2 ujoints. I am getting drive vibes when I let off the gas for just a second at any speed over 40 MPH or if I feather the gas at speed. I know the answer is to get a CV rear prop shaft but the question is how do I get the rear pinion in line for it. I measured everything with a slope finder and have a 15 degree working angle on the tcase joint and an 11 degree working angle on the rear joint acounting for 2 degrees of pinion rotation at cruise. I'd prefer to not spend a fortune of course. I read in the F.A.Q. that someone had simply installed the rear triangle shaped trailing arm bushings from the front instead of the rear and thus effectively shortened the rear link by a half inch. Is this felt to be an OK thing to do? What is the relation of link length to pinion angle? 1/2" equals x degrees? I need 8 degrees of correction to get within 3 degrees of in line with the tcase at the min. I guess using an a arm extension from RT could be done in addition too. At these angles now I am need of new joints every year at the minimum. I have RT rear links and could get Keith to cut and reweld them too I guess.

KB

In high lift applications of 88 coilers we have done the following:
Installed corrected trailing arms and done CV shafts. This works great in a 4 speed car, and is just OK in a 5 speed car (still will get some slight growl on a no load situation).
We have also dropped the gearbox crossmember some to reduce the driveline angle and that cured most of the stock height 5 speed 88s.
The ultimate cure for some of the taller rigs, like the V8 Lightweight, was to move the engine forward to gain rear shaft length.

Sadly there is no simple answer due to the short wheelbase on the 88s.

Good luck,
ECR
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  #4  
Old April 5th, 2007, 08:59 PM
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Kevin
I have a spare set of stock trailing arms if you would like to play with a set and see what your truck needs. I don't know if it will help you any but you can also compare them to the HD ones I have since they are without a body over them at this point.

Eric
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  #5  
Old April 5th, 2007, 09:40 PM
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Thanks Eric, let me talk to Keith tomorrow and see what he says first.
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  #6  
Old April 6th, 2007, 02:26 AM
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kEVIN, i MOVED MY TRANS FORWARD ABOUT 1.5 INCHES. THTS WITH THE 5 SPEED AND LT230.. mY REAR SHAFT IS ALMOST PERFECT.
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  #7  
Old April 6th, 2007, 10:14 AM
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Ideally that is the answer Randy, especially with the room the perkins gives you.
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  #8  
Old April 6th, 2007, 11:57 AM
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If it only takes 1.5in, why not move the rear axle backwards?
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  #9  
Old April 6th, 2007, 12:09 PM
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Kevin - Since you have the RT rear links, have you played with the spacers? Do you currently have them all in or none?

I had a similar problem and this is what Steve suggested.
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  #10  
Old April 6th, 2007, 12:31 PM
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Kevin, what t-case and trans will you have? IF you do my setup, you will have to move it just because of the shifters... IF not, the adjustable rear links will do the trick. I needed them on my d-90... I have the RYM units and they let me run a stock d-shaft with a 3" lift and no vibs at all...
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  #11  
Old April 6th, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Sorry for the confusion, by RT I meant RoverTracks not Rovertym. I spoke to Keith and he had me take a bunch of measurements in the horizontal and vertical to plug into CAD and come up with the perfect length.
Randy, I am running a series tcase and gearbox.
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  #12  
Old April 6th, 2007, 03:35 PM
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BTW could someone tell me the working length of a stock D90 rear prop shaft?
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