Rear Main Seal Leak - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 18th, 2016, 09:27 PM
joyride8
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Logan Feldman
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Rear Main Seal Leak

i have a slow leak from my rear main seal. ive gotten numerous quotes and am debating if the repair is worth it or just keep an eye on oil levels, i use the car maybe once a month . thoughts and feedback greatly appreciated. (97 automatic)
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  #2  
Old June 18th, 2016, 10:54 PM
Naplm00
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Matthew
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Depending on how much really. Dime size after a week? Who cares... Puddle? Different story

What kinda quotes did you get?
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  #3  
Old June 19th, 2016, 12:23 AM
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Mike
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on my last D90 the leak wasn't too bad but I ended up having it done. If I recall it was like $1500+ and the shop told me they didn't guarantee the repair.... So it could stop leaking for a day, a week, or a year but luckily I didn't see the leak again while I owned it.
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  #4  
Old June 19th, 2016, 07:31 AM
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Buy a black mat to put under your truck and Relax.
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  #5  
Old June 19th, 2016, 09:06 PM
joyride8
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Logan Feldman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Depending on how much really. Dime size after a week? Who cares... Puddle? Different story

What kinda quotes did you get?
ironically i got 3 different quotes from 3 different dealers ranging from 2300 to 3000, and my local mechanic quoted 1900
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  #6  
Old June 19th, 2016, 09:29 PM
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As mentioned before, if it's a small leak it's not worth paying the price to fix it. Throwing good money after bad. The reality is that most leak or weep and many did from new.
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  #7  
Old June 19th, 2016, 11:31 PM
Naplm00
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Matthew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joyride8 View Post
ironically i got 3 different quotes from 3 different dealers ranging from 2300 to 3000, and my local mechanic quoted 1900
Yea that's bonkers. Especially since you don't even need to pull the engine or drop tge Trans and tcase. Take out the floor and Trans hump, unbolt drives haft and mounts and shuffle it back on the Crossmember.
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  #8  
Old June 20th, 2016, 12:44 AM
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It is not the rear main, or at least 90% of "rear main seal leaks" are fixed by replacing the crucifix or cross seals.

------ Follow up post added June 20th, 2016 12:44 AM ------

Oh, and service the PCV system, new hoses etc.
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  #9  
Old June 20th, 2016, 06:56 AM
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I've also seen the cam plugs on the back of the block leak.
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  #10  
Old June 20th, 2016, 09:16 AM
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Mike
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I've been dealing with a leak from the rear main for 11 years (since I bought it)
I've traced to where the rear main cap mates to the block. I plan on replacing the cross seals soon. During the 11 year drip, I've re sealed the oil pan several times thinking it was the pan. I also tried blue devil seal conditioner. This stopped the drip for about 100 miles, then it came back.

Good luck!
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  #11  
Old June 20th, 2016, 12:32 PM
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Almost 14 years ago I found an ad from a guy that was selling his NAS 90. It had about 30k miles and he was being forced to sell it. His wife was sick and tired of it dropping dime sized marks on their cobblestone driveway. He'd had Peabody LR replace all major seals and they lasted for a year before it all started over again. She nagged him to a point where he was like take this thing. So I flew up to Boston, drove him back to Marblehead and headed back to DC. It's has dripped for 14 years but still going strong.
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  #12  
Old June 20th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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Jeff B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
It is not the rear main, or at least 90% of "rear main seal leaks" are fixed by replacing the crucifix or cross seals.
.

That's exactly what Charlie from Roanoke told me....he may have said 95%!


I still need to do mine....


.
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  #13  
Old June 20th, 2016, 11:57 PM
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Adam Hairston
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x2 on the cross seals. I fixed my leak that the dealer told me was the rear main.
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  #14  
Old June 21st, 2016, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Yea that's bonkers. Especially since you don't even need to pull the engine or drop tge Trans and tcase. Take out the floor and Trans hump, unbolt drives haft and mounts and shuffle it back on the Crossmember.
Matthew, can you elaborate on this technique a little? Would you leave the exhaust pipes in place, not need to disconnect the clutch slave, e-brake, etc? I was thinking of dropping my transmission to do this but if it could just be slid back enough to access the flywheel (and ultimately the rear main seal) while balancing somehow on the crossmember that would be great!
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  #15  
Old June 21st, 2016, 04:54 PM
Naplm00
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Matthew
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Got the idea from Here

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...change.174080/
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  #16  
Old June 21st, 2016, 06:15 PM
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I would pull the motor to do it. I find that faster than pulling the transmission. I've never heard of anyone doing it without pulling both, but I suppose anything is possible.
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  #17  
Old June 22nd, 2016, 07:41 AM
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Dave Sherwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Buy a black mat to put under your truck and Relax.
^^^^^^ this

Mine has leaked for 6 years...
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