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  #81  
Old December 6th, 2014, 01:39 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Well, that makes no sense. The axle, spider gears and the diff (R&P, cross pin, what?) all broke, at the same time? But the CV's were OK? Id love to see pics, but definitely ask for all of your old parts back. -Jeff
Calling Monday for definitive answers. Was out of town and a bit preoccupied when they called. I will post what is needed and ask for pictures. Maybe even run by there myself.

Thanks guys.
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  #82  
Old December 6th, 2014, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Well, that makes no sense. The axle, spider gears and the diff (R&P, cross pin, what?) all broke, at the same time? But the CV's were OK? Id love to see pics, but definitely ask for all of your old parts back.

-Jeff
If the CV broken, the spider gears could be way over worked, much like spinning one tire off of the ground. It doesn't take much to damage spider gears. I've seen a lot of Disco spider gears with chunks out of them.
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  #83  
Old December 6th, 2014, 04:00 PM
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Given it has a rover diff in it its quite plausible the diff centre has gone, they are a single pin design and are not a very good or strong design in the first place. The options there are replace it with standard centre, from any rover diff new or secondhand. Up grade it to a standard two pin centre which started being produced in the fronts of 2010 defenders, so a second hand one my be possible from the UK. These however are still an open diff design. Or alternatively an Eaton true trac will give you a two pin limited slip type diff. Ashcroft also make an ATB limited slip 2 pin centre. All 3 of these options are much stronger the the standard rover type centre.

However i'd be looking at drive flanges and axel splines first to determine if they are stripped or warn, then pull the CV to check if they are cracked, smashed, or intact. Its unlikely to break an axel in the front as the CV is the weakest link.

You can go genuine and absorb the high prices, or places like Bill at Great Basin is one that i am aware of that can help out with after market stuff that is usually better in strength. If you just do general driving however standard type stuff will suffice.

While you at it, you may wish to get the back lash in the rear diff checked. A bit of a fine tune can take away much of the drive line banging that it often fobbed off as standard land rover drive line clatter, even buy land rover.
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  #84  
Old December 6th, 2014, 05:05 PM
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While you at it, you may wish to get the back lash in the rear diff checked. A bit of a fine tune can take away much of the drive line banging that it often fobbed off as standard land rover drive line clatter, even buy land rover.
This is also what I'm interested in. If I just say "Check the rear diff back lash" they will get it? I have a lot of banging around back and under there I'm trying to fix at the same time as front issue is fixed.
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  #85  
Old December 6th, 2014, 05:36 PM
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This is also what I'm interested in. If I just say "Check the rear diff back lash" they will get it? I have a lot of banging around back and under there I'm trying to fix at the same time as front issue is fixed.
If you want them to check that, you will be charged for removing the rear diff, plus additional diag time. Ultimately you will be told you need a new rear diff. A dealer is not likely to be messing with rebuilding a differential. It will all depend on the technician working on it.
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  #86  
Old December 6th, 2014, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kevincdoyle View Post
This is also what I'm interested in. If I just say "Check the rear diff back lash" they will get it? I have a lot of banging around back and under there I'm trying to fix at the same time as front issue is fixed.
Id be taking it to a diff specialist, a dealer will only send it there and then put their margin on if they even offer to do it for you. If you are going to the trouble, and you plan to keep the car than get a quote to check/reset the pre-loads (back lash in another term) and check the carrier bearings. I'd put a new pinion bearing and seal in regardless if you disturb the diff.
It is true the diff will most likely be pulled out from the car to be set up, but maybe not. And you may as well also consider new carrier bearings if you are going to reset the diff. Depends really how old they are really.
Timken bearings are the genuine bearings and worth it.

If you chasing noise however, prop shaft universals are also worth checking to see there is no play in the joints or splined shaft.
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  #87  
Old December 6th, 2014, 11:20 PM
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It is true the diff will most likely be pulled out from the car to be set up, but maybe not.
Can you explain how it is possible to check any bearing preloads on a D90 diff without removing it from the axle housing?
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  #88  
Old December 7th, 2014, 12:42 AM
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Can you explain how it is possible to check any bearing preloads on a D90 diff without removing it from the axle housing?
nope, and I'm not here to beat my chest as who's knows more than another.

When my car went in to get a detroit fitted initially they were looking at fitting it in the car, but eventually pulled the diff to do so. I'm no mechanic, not even great on the tools, just spent a far bit of money on diffs in the past.
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  #89  
Old December 7th, 2014, 01:02 AM
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nope, and I'm not here to beat my chest as who's knows more than another.

When my car went in to get a detroit fitted initially they were looking at fitting it in the car, but eventually pulled the diff to do so. I'm no mechanic, not even great on the tools, just spent a far bit of money on diffs in the past.
I'm just pointing out how things are going to work if he starts asking to have things checked by the dealership. I'm a mechanic at one of the biggest Land Rover dealers in the US, so I've got a pretty good idea of how it will go down. Not sure how it is in Australia, but here, mechanics are paid by the job. If the customer wants something checked, he will have to pay for it. In the case of differential backlash, he will have to pay for the diff to be removed and also pay further diag time to have an actual measuring done. This is all assuming the mechanic has any idea what he is doing with checking a differential. There is a good possibility that no one in the shop even has the tools for measuring or setting up a diff. If there is any excessive play in the diff, the diff will likely need to be replaced in the dealership world. I'm not saying its the right or best way, but it is likely the way it will happen.

If I had a diff fail in any way, I would without a doubt replace it with a good used unit. In fact, if I were working on a customer vehicle, I would also give them the option of a used unit as well as new.
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