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  #61  
Old November 6th, 2014, 08:31 PM
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on my way...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
Lock cdl, set parking brake, and jack up one front wheel and see if it turns. Then lower it and try the other front wheel.
hang tight...
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  #62  
Old November 6th, 2014, 08:43 PM
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That test won't help. With something broken In the front both wheels will turn freely. Maybe you will hear or feel which side is broken.
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  #63  
Old November 6th, 2014, 08:44 PM
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Drain diffs and t-case and swivels, look for chunks. Told you it was not the half shafts. :-)
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  #64  
Old November 6th, 2014, 08:51 PM
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Of course! Never mind.
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  #65  
Old November 6th, 2014, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
That test won't help. With something broken In the front both wheels will turn freely. Maybe you will hear or feel which side is broken.
Well hell, both turned as easy as my first Phi Mu.

No discernible grind, etc. in either wheel.

Swivels/etc, clean as a whistle. No drips, runs or errors...

On to next idea..
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  #66  
Old November 6th, 2014, 09:56 PM
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You just need to start pulling a cv out. You have a 50/50 chance. Try the short side first as they seem to break more often.
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  #67  
Old November 6th, 2014, 11:27 PM
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Kevin,

I just read through both pages and your first post mentions "a problem" but no additional posts state what the problem actually is. Did I miss a post somewhere that states what symptoms you are experiencing?
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  #68  
Old November 7th, 2014, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Kevin, I just read through both pages and your first post mentions "a problem" but no additional posts state what the problem actually is. Did I miss a post somewhere that states what symptoms you are experiencing?
90 will only drive with CDL locked...and I have an extreme amount of clunking that I swear comes from back of truck.
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  #69  
Old November 7th, 2014, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincdoyle View Post
90 will only drive with CDL locked...and I have an extreme amount of clunking that I swear comes from back of truck.
Let's drain the rear diff and see if it blows chunks... Of metal.
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  #70  
Old November 7th, 2014, 08:36 AM
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Disclaimer: BE CAREFUL. If this test goes wrong, it can be a bad time.

With the vehicle standing still, turn it on, put it in gear, CDL unlocked, and then off the brakes. Have someone do this and then you CAREFULLY look under the truck. See if front driveshaft is turning or rear. Whichever end is turning, that is which axle you need to look at. Feel free to stand at a distance or use mirrors or a video camera (cell phone?) or whatever. Just don't stick your head under a vehicle that could randomly find traction and squash your head. This will sidetrack you significantly from fixing the problem.

If its the front, first look at the flanges. Pop off the dust cap and see if the shaft is turning inside the flange. If so, then that is quick and easy. Next CVs. Sometimes they'll make noise when turning. So drive the vehicle in a tight circle. See if one is making a clicking noise. Beyond that, diff and as others have said, pull the drain and see what falls out.

Hope this helps.
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  #71  
Old November 7th, 2014, 08:56 AM
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will do as soon....

Quote:
Originally Posted by LR Max View Post
Disclaimer: BE CAREFUL. If this test goes wrong, it can be a bad time.

With the vehicle standing still, turn it on, put it in gear, CDL unlocked, and then off the brakes. Have someone do this and then you CAREFULLY look under the truck. See if front driveshaft is turning or rear. Whichever end is turning, that is which axle you need to look at. Feel free to stand at a distance or use mirrors or a video camera (cell phone?) or whatever. Just don't stick your head under a vehicle that could randomly find traction and squash your head. This will sidetrack you significantly from fixing the problem.

If its the front, first look at the flanges. Pop off the dust cap and see if the shaft is turning inside the flange. If so, then that is quick and easy. Next CVs. Sometimes they'll make noise when turning. So drive the vehicle in a tight circle. See if one is making a clicking noise. Beyond that, diff and as others have said, pull the drain and see what falls out.

Hope this helps.
I get my new ignition switch from RN installed...

In the meantime, isn't it pretty telling that if rear of car is off the ground, CDL locked and I turn the rear driveshaft that the FRONT driveshaft turns even though the FRONT wheels are on the ground? rear wheels turn normally.

In other words, it seems that if front driveshaft is turning but the wheels aren't then it's the front diff? As evilfj said...

I know this is becoming a pain Board, thanks for the continued help...
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  #72  
Old November 7th, 2014, 09:32 AM
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imho something in the front is broken man.
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  #73  
Old November 7th, 2014, 10:05 AM
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Max makes some good points.


.
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  #74  
Old November 7th, 2014, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincdoyle View Post

In the meantime, isn't it pretty telling that if rear of car is off the ground, CDL locked and I turn the rear driveshaft that the FRONT driveshaft turns even though the FRONT wheels are on the ground? rear wheels turn normally.
Definitely a problem in the front.
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  #75  
Old November 7th, 2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Definitely a problem in the front.
Yup. Probably broken CV.
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  #76  
Old December 6th, 2014, 12:06 AM
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Well boys, you were right.....

Got the call today while I was at the Mayo with the better half....

Front diff also to include drivers side axle/cv

$1600 and counting.....still hafta find the clunk....

Oh well...

At least they are taking me on a skeet shoot Sunday. Ought to make up for it!!

Seriously tho-Jaguar Land Rover Tulsa has always done me right....Jeff, Curtis, Craig, Eric and Rupy are good guys..

Although it might have something to do with me trading cars every 10 minutes...

Stay tuned and thanks for all of the guidance!!
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  #77  
Old December 6th, 2014, 09:57 AM
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That price actually isn't too bad considering its the dealership.
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  #78  
Old December 6th, 2014, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincdoyle View Post



Front diff also to include drivers side axle/cv

$1600 and counting.....still hafta find the clunk....

Oh well...
You sure you want to go to the dealership route? I just did my own front diff repair a couple months ago. Very easy deal to pop out the front differential. There's plenty of perfectly good used units from Discoverys out there for around $150 to $200, or less. I went the rebuild route at a local off-road specialist for around $600, I think. They put in brand new bearings. The old ones were shot. The pinion gears were fine.
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  #79  
Old December 6th, 2014, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMidnite View Post
You sure you want to go to the dealership route? I just did my own front diff repair a couple months ago. Very easy deal to pop out the front differential. There's plenty of perfectly good used units from Discoverys out there for around $150 to $200, or less. I went the rebuild route at a local off-road specialist for around $600, I think. They put in brand new bearings. The old ones were shot. The pinion gears were fine.
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  #80  
Old December 6th, 2014, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
What work was done, and what was the found upon opening things up? Or did you just get a quote? Can you retype that into something understandable? -Jeff
Hah!

Essentially was told a snapped front axle and spider gears, front diff. etc...and $1600 was the damage.

I really do hear you guys on the DYI route and would love to do it but my wife just spent 2 weeks at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester, MN and I just don't have the time to devote to the project. I will find out more on Monday and report back.
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