Rear End Kapow - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 18th, 2014, 09:09 PM
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Rear End Kapow

Was driving down the road today and I heard a "ping" noise come from my rear end... The rear end did a little wiggle at the same time... I still have a major clonk between shifts and between accelerating/decelerating... I think she's about to disassemble herself.

What's the most cost effective route? Is there another type of rearend that I can use to replace mine or should I just have it rebuilt?
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  #2  
Old January 18th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Not completely well versed on D90 supsensions, but how's your upper link joint?
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  #3  
Old January 18th, 2014, 09:33 PM
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I'm honestly clueless when it comes to rear end, suspension, ball joints... I'll get underneath it tomorrow and look around... How can I check the ball joint?
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Old January 18th, 2014, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD90 View Post
I'm honestly clueless when it comes to rear end, suspension, ball joints... I'll get underneath it tomorrow and look around... How can I check the ball joint?
See if the boot is intact and put a prybar in there (not on the boot obviously) and check for play. Could be your diff about to explode too. Pull the fill plug and rotate the diff until you can see the spiders and stick a small screw driver in there to see if the gears are loose from eating into the case.

Also generally inspect the suspension. I have seen the three bolt mounts on the frame and the frame where they mount crack too.
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  #5  
Old January 20th, 2014, 08:39 AM
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I got under the truck yesterday and it looks like the upper link joint could use a new bushing/boot/whatever it's called... I'm going to search the forum for the method of replacing it and part numbers... it'll give a good starting point to whether or not the rear end is about to detonate...
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  #6  
Old January 20th, 2014, 09:41 AM
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http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...OVERY-I&key=it


Part number in the URL as usual : RHF500110
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  #7  
Old January 20th, 2014, 09:44 AM
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Thanks ZG... now I just need to find the tried and true method to replace it... from what I've read so far, it can be easy, or take an act of God...
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  #8  
Old January 20th, 2014, 09:54 AM
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I've never seen it easily done, but I'm also in salt's natural habitat.
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  #9  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:03 AM
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The tried and true method is to plan on it being a PITA. Have a press, heat, hammers and all ready to go and then if it's easy, finish up, have a drink and revel in your amazing talents.
I have also heard that Trevor at Rovahfarm sells the complete assembly with a new ball joint pressed in. May be with a shot.
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  #10  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:40 AM
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So I'm assuming that I can just remove that entire contraption and it'll be much easier to deal with the ball joint?
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  #11  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:44 AM
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You can get the whole assembly with the ball joint for around $75 so you dont have to mess with it. Im selling my new ball joint which I purchased before I knew that if you are interested in doing it the hard way.
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  #12  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:46 AM
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You must remove the a-frame. There is no other way really. The joint needs to be pressed in and out. Just take it to a shop that has a real press and have them change the joint. Change the chassis end bushings as well. I would also plan on replacing the chassis end bolts and nuts. All cheap to buy.

Now....this is all assuming this is the real problem. There are a lot of possible reasons for a clunk. Check out the lower link bushings as well. Check the driveshaft u-joints.
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  #13  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You must remove the a-frame. There is no other way really. The joint needs to be pressed in and out. Just take it to a shop that has a real press and have them change the joint. Change the chassis end bushings as well. I would also plan on replacing the chassis end bolts and nuts. All cheap to buy.

Now....this is all assuming this is the real problem. There are a lot of possible reasons for a clunk. Check out the lower link bushings as well. Check the driveshaft u-joints.
Thanks for the info Red!

It definitely needs a new joint, and I'll replace the rest of the bushings as well while my hands are dirty... I'm hoping this clears it up... if not, I guess I'll pull the rear diff out and have it rebuilt.

------ Follow up post added January 20th, 2014 10:54 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
You can get the whole assembly with the ball joint for around $75 so you dont have to mess with it. Im selling my new ball joint which I purchased before I knew that if you are interested in doing it the hard way.
Please tell me where I can find this whole assembly for $75.00!
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  #14  
Old January 20th, 2014, 11:07 AM
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http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lan...c-anr1799.html

My bad, its actually only $64 plus shipping.
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  #15  
Old January 20th, 2014, 11:21 AM
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Getting the bolts out of the a-frame to bracket connection can be very hard as well.
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  #16  
Old January 20th, 2014, 11:27 AM
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http://www.rovahfarm.com/defenderaxl...nsionPage2.htm
DA1129 - $99.00
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  #17  
Old January 20th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Just make sure it is clear what you are getting. "DA1129" is a Britpart part number. They sell three versions.

DA1129 - Balljoint with noname brand joint
DA1129ADJ - Adjustable ball joint - http://britpart.com/Accessory.aspx?AccessoryRef=5409
DA1129G - OEM balljoint (Lemforder)

I would suggest OEM joints and bushings. If you have high travel suspension, I would get the X-eng joint. http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?ro...rch=ball+joint
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