Rear Door Replacement Options Defender 110 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 11:11 AM
COSteve
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Steven Reed
93 Defender 110 - #107
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Unhappy Rear Door Replacement Options Defender 110

The rear door (NAS110) finally relented and bowed enough, when I tried to close it to latch, that I shattered the rear glass.

Am assuming that the internal support structure of the door was shot before I installed the Mantec.

The question is should I take off and have it rebuilt or source a new rear door? I understand the new style doors are Steel with aluminum skins and more robust than the all aluminum origional 93 door?

This stuff always happens right before a Colorado weather event (5 inches or snow and 40 deg temp drop yesterday)

Any opinions appreciated.

COSteve
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 11:43 AM
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jim pendleton
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Yours is prolly to rusted out to fix.

I have an old door that needs a bit of work. But may work for you. No glass in it though.

PM me if you need it. In KS.

JP
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  #3  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 12:15 PM
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John Crouse
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Rear Door

George at RDS had some new ones for sale. I think he wanted $410 for them.
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  #4  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COSteve
The rear door (NAS110) finally relented and bowed enough, when I tried to close it to latch, that I shattered the rear glass.

Am assuming that the internal support structure of the door was shot before I installed the Mantec.

The question is should I take off and have it rebuilt or source a new rear door? I understand the new style doors are Steel with aluminum skins and more robust than the all aluminum origional 93 door?
Hi Steve-

When I bought my 110, the rear door was bowed in and the PO had put a piece of plexiglass back in.

Inside the door is ~3/4" square steel tubing for the frame. That's what breaks due to the weight of the spare on the door. The swing-away will fix the source of the problem. Mine wasn't rusty at all, just broken so I had a buddy weld it back together while I stood on it (to get the bow out). I sourced the heated glass from John Craddock. That was two years ago and it's been fine.

If your's is rusted at all, get Pendy's and start there.
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  #5  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 02:11 PM
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Series rear doors used to be really cheap. I got a new one in my basement I paid maybe $150 for 5 or 6 years ago.
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  #6  
Old October 23rd, 2007, 11:49 PM
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Steven Reed
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Thanks to all for the suggestions!
Rovers North had the rear door in stock for 520.00 and the rear glass for 259.99
Ouch! Should have taken care of it sooner!
Pendy, I would have taken you up on the used door route, but timing is an issue, as its my daily driver.
Its off to the paint shop as soon as the door arrives.
So words of wisdom, if your doors gives and its hard to get to latch, get it replaced as the rear glass is the killer and the pound to dollar is horrid.
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  #7  
Old October 24th, 2007, 01:35 AM
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Matt
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Can the "old" glass be used in the new style door?
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  #8  
Old October 24th, 2007, 08:36 AM
Kev Baldwin
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Kevin Baldwin
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No.
New style door glass is a different shape and held in place by a rubber seal. New style door also uses a Disco 1 spare wheel carrier.
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  #9  
Old October 24th, 2007, 10:05 AM
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Steven Reed
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Matt, the currennt "new" door was going to be 2X and a long wait from what I could gather.
The old style door with the Mantec taking the weight offload should last me for another 15 years, or so the logic goes.
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  #10  
Old October 24th, 2007, 01:54 PM
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Damn. I would have sold you my new door and D110 glass for half that.
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  #11  
Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:27 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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The rear door on my D90 has rust holes on the bottom of it (dime sized holes). Is this possible to fix or should I just replace it? The rest of the door looks fine. Also, the heated window on the rear door does not work completely. Some of the wires do not heat up. Is this fixable or is the only solution to put new glass in?
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  #12  
Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:33 PM
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yes, they sell galvanized channel to weld in to fix the rust
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  #13  
Old March 3rd, 2010, 12:12 AM
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Clay DeWan
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O.k. maybe silly question but isn't the glass flat? If so, have a piece cut by a good windshield repair shop (shop around too) It is what I have done with the front windshield on my rig. I know that if you do that you may not end up with a rear electric defrost but it may be a heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new OEM one.
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  #14  
Old March 3rd, 2010, 03:50 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
yes, they sell galvanized channel to weld in to fix the rust
I bought some stuff at NAPA last year to fix one. It was real easy, you just clean up the area, then put a stencil around the line and paint this copper goop on. If you're careful, you'd never know it was repaired unless you look for it. It has been working great in the vehicle I used it on.
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  #15  
Old March 3rd, 2010, 06:49 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Who sells it?

Is it used to patch the door bottom?

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
yes, they sell galvanized channel to weld in to fix the rust
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  #16  
Old March 3rd, 2010, 07:20 PM
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John Crouse
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I just replaced the bottom channel of my 110 door using one of these. Pretty strtaightforward. The company that makes them is called YRM Metal Products in the UK. They also make spring brackets for the rear axle (that I have also purchased) and they make bulkhead replacement parts. LRSeries and many of the other UK mail order shops carry YRMs products. Not sure if anyone in the US does.
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  #17  
Old March 4th, 2010, 01:18 AM
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Do you need a tire carrier with the new style doors?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but they seem to be a lot stronger so I don't see a need for it.
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  #18  
Old March 10th, 2010, 12:12 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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John.

Is this the part you'retalking about?

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk...ction-11-p.asp

Below is a pic of the part I'd like to replace.

Is this possible or should I just get a new door?
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