Rear Crossmember Replacement - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 16th, 2008, 10:27 PM
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John Crouse
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Rear Crossmember Replacement

Has anyone seen a rear crossmember with extensions this long for sale anywhere in the US? If I could find one of these, I might not have to replace my entire frame.

My frame is bad up to where it starts to bend up over the axle. This one looks long enough that I could cut it where there is still good metal. All the ones I've seen for sale have extensions that are too short.

Has anyone seen one of these? The picture is off a UK suppliers website.
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  #2  
Old November 17th, 2008, 07:51 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Just buy it from the UK.
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  #3  
Old November 17th, 2008, 09:22 AM
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I got one from the uk for a series I did, no problems...even galvanized it before install.
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  #4  
Old November 17th, 2008, 10:39 AM
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I got one from Rovers North but it did not have the upper supports on it. They are not hard to fab if you wanted to have them made.
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  #5  
Old November 17th, 2008, 12:23 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrrvr
I got one from the uk for a series I did, no problems...even galvanized it before install.
Quick question on that. If you galvanise it before install, do the spots where it is welded to the frame retain the protection from tha galvanizing or do they rust like regular welds?

B
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  #6  
Old November 17th, 2008, 12:27 PM
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Charles Galpin
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You have to grind away the galvanizing where you weld, and that and the weld will not have the galvanizing to protect it. But it's a much smaller area to protect than the whole thing. And don't forget the frame you are welding to isn't likely to be galvanized either.
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  #7  
Old November 17th, 2008, 01:40 PM
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Ya that's what I kind of figured, but it is always good to get word from the experienced.
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  #8  
Old November 17th, 2008, 06:30 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Mine arrived today, no top supports either. I guess once I drop the tank I'll be able to see better if I'll need to add these to mine. I expect to galvy mine before installing it so I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Does anyone happen to know the size/thread of the bolt holes along the bottom of the cross member? Mine must have been made on a monday because one of them is missing (they are just nuts welded on, not the larger square pads on the D90).
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  #9  
Old November 17th, 2008, 08:36 PM
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"because one of them is missing"

Removed along with the rear step at Moab. Wait, you mean on the new one????

I am 90% sure I put that bolt back in the cubby box in the back of the truck when mike and I took it off.

Ron
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  #10  
Old November 17th, 2008, 08:54 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Jeff's right. Maybe it's by design, but my D90 has them all. I don't have a reference on the 110 (unless you kept the bits you cut off Ron? )

I figured I'd weld one on before I get it galvanised. Never know when it might come in handy to have them all there.

Am i crazy to want to cap the ends too? Seems like a weak point to me.

charles
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  #11  
Old November 17th, 2008, 08:56 PM
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John Crouse
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Shipping from the UK

Ok, here's the scoop. IF they can find a shipper that will take it, they are estimating 200-250 sterling so it would be about $700 shipped to me. I'm going to consider it, maybe even as a short term fix until I can replace the chassis. It will depend on the quotes I get to do the welding.
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  #12  
Old November 17th, 2008, 08:59 PM
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As someone who went down a similar road, do the whole chassis.
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  #13  
Old November 17th, 2008, 09:03 PM
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Charles Galpin
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John, I just got mine from Paddocks for $215 plus $168 in shipping (including at out rigger and a few other items). So unless you *really* need some specific one, you can do much better (under $400).

Ron, while a whole chassis is ideal, the cost and level of effort to replace are not even close.

Oh thats 112 sterling for shipping in case you think I got my currencies mixed up.
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  #14  
Old November 17th, 2008, 09:06 PM
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Janey's chassis is good enough to save, but I am just saying if you are paying someone the $$$$ to weld on a cross member and plan to eventually get a whole chassis (especially on a high dollar NAS 110), probably want to bite the bullet and do the chassis.
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  #15  
Old November 17th, 2008, 09:26 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Well, I guess if paying for welding/install it starts adding up. I'm doing my own, and for under $400 it will definately be worth having until a [possible/eventual] frame replacement. If I had a rear cross member on my Uwharrie trip, I would not have damaged the rear.
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  #16  
Old November 17th, 2008, 09:51 PM
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You should have just welded the bits on I included with the truck.

Ron
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  #17  
Old November 17th, 2008, 10:07 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Nah, they weren't even a close match.
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  #18  
Old November 18th, 2008, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Jeff's right. Maybe it's by design, but my D90 has them all. I don't have a reference on the 110 (unless you kept the bits you cut off Ron? )

I figured I'd weld one on before I get it galvanised. Never know when it might come in handy to have them all there.

Am i crazy to want to cap the ends too? Seems like a weak point to me.

charles
Charles,
You do realize that galvanizing will fill in all those threads and you will have to tap them out again right ?
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  #19  
Old November 18th, 2008, 08:24 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Yup. That will be far easier to do one day if I need them, compared to welding on a nut at that time

An ounce of prevention...

I am thinking about putting my NAS bumper on it. Doesn't it use some of those bottom threaded holes?
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  #20  
Old November 18th, 2008, 08:54 AM
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Yup. I have the NAS bumper on mine and it uses those captive nuts. FWIW one of mine was missing on my rear crossmember. Must be a 110 thing ?
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