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  #1  
Old June 8th, 2009, 09:51 AM
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Rich Campbell
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Rear Crossmember

I need to replace my rear crossmember. There is some rust on the frame rail so I thought I could use the rovers north one with extensions.(this is no longer available though, also I was told will not work on the US models due to the fuel tank.)

Anyone ever do this and how??

The rest of my 90 is rust free, the member is shot.

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  #2  
Old June 8th, 2009, 10:34 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Joe Z and I just did the crossmember on my 110 this weekend, but we used one with long extensions. If you can, order one from the UK, pay whatever the shipping is, and ensure you get a part that is made the same way as the original. Bottom line - avoid Britpart.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:34 AM
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  #4  
Old June 8th, 2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Joe Z and I just did the crossmember on my 110 this weekend, but we used one with long extensions. If you can, order one from the UK, pay whatever the shipping is, and ensure you get a part that is made the same way as the original. Bottom line - avoid Britpart.
Talk about polishing a turd frame ....

Ron
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:53 AM
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Actually just the rear and the bulkhead outriggers that were bad. Not too bad to fix, but not the best replacement parts.
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  #6  
Old June 8th, 2009, 10:58 AM
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How big were the holes behind the transmission crossmember?
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Old June 8th, 2009, 12:18 PM
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Oh yeah, forgot, dunno yet. No bigger than the ends of the crossmember though

The part under the rear door trim was remarkably good even though the trim was almost rusted away.
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  #8  
Old June 8th, 2009, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Oh yeah, forgot, dunno yet. No bigger than the ends of the crossmember though .
Don't be so sure. You need to do that now lest the truck bow in the middle. I have seen a couple RRCs do that from rust there. I would also expect to plate the bottom of the frame below that spot.

I did not look too closely, but I recall your frame being what the series folks would call "thin" in a couple other places. If you really want it to last a couple more years (and more importantly not completely buckle in an accident), I would get under there with a grinder with a wire wheel and a big screwdriver and knock back all the surface rust and rust coverter it (spray can at wal-mart is fine, no need for POR at this point) and poke around with the screwdriver for holes. It might take a complete solid two work day weekend of unpleasant work, but it can be made right.
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