Rear Bumper removal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 18th, 2008, 02:12 PM
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barry f
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Rear Bumper removal

I think I am going to pull my rear bumper to paint my cross member. Is there anyting I need to know before I do it? Four bolts hold it on right? Do I need two wrenches or is it a captive nut kind of thing?

thanks
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  #2  
Old February 18th, 2008, 02:22 PM
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The only hard bit is getting it out from behind the tire mount on the one side--that and rusted bolts. I was able to wedge mine out without pullign the tire carrier. Keep in mind on mine they were all (mostly?) 12.9 bolts so you want to save them and try not to break them (the ones into the bottom of the cross member will probably break and need to be drilled out--not fun). Spray everything (including into the crossmember) with PB blaster a couple days in advance and again right before attempting to remove.

2 hours and some swearing. Not horrible. Impact gun helped a lot but some I did by hand. Used black expoxy paint on top of a black primer to repaint the cross member.

Ron
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Old February 18th, 2008, 02:26 PM
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Is that a wierd size bolt? I noticed on the tire carrier the nut is on the outside.
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Old February 18th, 2008, 02:31 PM
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Normal size, just higher strength (but more brittle) than standard 8.8.
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Old February 18th, 2008, 02:39 PM
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barry f
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Thanks so are there nuts on these bolts or does it just screw into the crossmember? What about the one under the tire carrier? Being the nut is on the outside.
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Old February 18th, 2008, 02:45 PM
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It has been a year or two for me since I did this. There are captive nuts in the crossmember, and the two bolts that go into the plugs that go through the cross member. I think the ones by the fuel tank have nuts on the other side though.

You will really just have to go down there and look (and spray with PB blaster)
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Old February 18th, 2008, 02:49 PM
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Thanks

Should be fun
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  #8  
Old February 18th, 2008, 02:52 PM
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Barry,

There should be two bolts on the frame rails, two bolts for the ends of the bumper tube (the corners), 4 bolts right in the center that go straight up from underneath into captive nuts welded to the underside of the rear cross member, and two bolts that thread into the "pins/plugs" that go through the holes in the cross member. for a total of 10.

I just painted the rear crossmember on my 110 and installed a NAS 90 rear bumper last week and bought stainless bolts so I had it written down. I'm just going to use this as a recovery point- if you intend to use it to tow stuff stay with hardened hardware- 8.8 of higher.
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Old February 18th, 2008, 02:57 PM
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Damn that is six more bolts than I thought. Did you use stainless to hold the bumper on?

Any pictures?

Also if you wrote it all down and have the sizes that would be great.

Thanks
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  #10  
Old March 12th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
The only hard bit is getting it out from behind the tire mount on the one side--that and rusted bolts. I was able to wedge mine out without pullign the tire carrier. Keep in mind on mine they were all (mostly?) 12.9 bolts so you want to save them and try not to break them (the ones into the bottom of the cross member will probably break and need to be drilled out--not fun). Spray everything (including into the crossmember) with PB blaster a couple days in advance and again right before attempting to remove.

2 hours and some swearing. Not horrible. Impact gun helped a lot but some I did by hand. Used black expoxy paint on top of a black primer to repaint the cross member.

Ron
I'm bringing this thred back to life because I'm in the process of doing this right now. I got the left side bolt out, which took me about an hours, then it was back to the honey-do and father duties. This is going to take a while.

Anyhow, what can I expect with the bolt that holds the tire carrier? Is it necessary to take the tire carrier off? Looks like the bumper should just be able to slide out from behind the lower mount on the tire carrier mount. Is there more to it?
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  #11  
Old March 12th, 2012, 01:24 PM
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Yes that's pretty much it. It takes a little finesse to get back in, but you don't need to remove the tire carrier, just the bottom bolt.
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  #12  
Old March 13th, 2012, 07:22 AM
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Thanks Charles.
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