Rear a arm castel nut - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 21st, 2013, 04:01 PM
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Rear a arm castel nut

Anyone know what size wrench I need for this nut?
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  #2  
Old December 21st, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Thanks my 1 1/8 didn't fit. Will buy a 30mm. Thanks
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  #3  
Old December 21st, 2013, 06:13 PM
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I've replaced the A-arm joint once.





Once.






I don't want to do it ever again.




.
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  #4  
Old December 21st, 2013, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I've replaced the A-arm joint once.





Once.






I don't want to do it ever again.




.
they now come complete with a carrier ... much easier
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  #5  
Old December 21st, 2013, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Or if you have a Snap-on addiction

http://store.snapon.com/Standard-mm-...t-P630751.aspx

-Jeff
Even though I own a ton of Snap On tools, I get sick looking at the prices.
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  #6  
Old December 21st, 2013, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
It's not so bad. If you have a press, swapping the just the ball I'd strait forward. If you dont have a press, get the the ball already in the cast piece. -Jeff
I brought mine to the machine shop behind the local Napa. He said no charge but I gave him a 20. I just noticed RovahFarm has the complete setup all clean and painted for $100 which what I would do if I had to do it again.
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  #7  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 02:46 PM
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It appears the bolts rusted through the fulcrum and a-arms. the nuts came off easily but I'm not able to remove the bolts from the fulcrum. Has anyone encountered this before? Is it possible to remove the bolts or am I SOL?
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  #8  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 02:49 PM
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Some localised heat might help:- oxy acetylene that is
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  #9  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Rusted...yes. At that point you should pull the whole A arm and work on it separate from the truck. Use heat, drizzle ATF into the gaps,more heat, then impact gun. I've also found cussing/swearing helps.

-Jeff
When I did mine - and it wasn't rusted - I just pulled the entire arm. It's like a couple of bolts both sides....but then again I think that castel nut needs to come off to get the arm out, doesn't it?
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  #10  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:17 PM
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The whole a-arm is out and I've tried plenty of cursing and it hasn't helped.

Will try some heat and see if I can get them to break free but i'm not hopeful. I may just try cutting the fulcrum out and just try to save the arms.
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  #11  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
Is it possible to remove the bolts or am I SOL?
You're never SOL

A MAPP gas torch, a hardened punch with a hammer, among other things can be used to do the job.
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Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
The whole a-arm is out and I've tried plenty of cursing and it hasn't helped.

Will try some heat and see if I can get them to break free but i'm not hopeful. I may just try cutting the fulcrum out and just try to save the arms.
Not sure I'm visualizing this correct, but when I did mine (and it wasn't even rusted in) I just cut the ears off the ball-joint housing as it was in place on the A-arm. Then I was able to use a press to get the leverage needed to actually press the entire ball-joint housing out (with the "ears" on you can't get the leverage needed).
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  #13  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:34 PM
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If you take the whole shooting match to a shop with a press they might just manage to press out the ball joint with the 'A' frame complete.
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  #14  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
So you have the this, and not just the ballpoint?

Alternate heat and ATF, the impact and wacks with a hammer in between.

-Jeff
I can't get that off the arms
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  #15  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 03:52 PM
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That balljoint is fine, put it back on....


Seriously, I'm glad to see you can buy the whole piece now.
When I replaced one of mine 6 years ago, I did just the joint and put a Rovertym A-arm extension in there.
I'll probably pull that whole piece as the truck is being parted and it only has about 3000 miles on it!
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  #16  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 04:39 PM
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If you have an adjustable ball joint you could undo it, clean it, repack it with grease, tighten the play out of it and you're good to go.
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  #17  
Old December 22nd, 2013, 06:39 PM
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I had one bolt that was murder to get off. When reinstalling, I but an insane amount of anti-seize on for the next person who has to deal with it.
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  #18  
Old December 24th, 2013, 09:47 PM
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Thanks. Looks like a lot of swearing does work.
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  #19  
Old December 25th, 2013, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
Thanks. Looks like a lot of swearing does work.
Just saw this, yeah, mine was a real B***h to get off too. I pulled everything and then it took a couple days of soaking in penetrating oil, heating it, using a press, using a BFH and using an air hammer, but eventually they came out. I ordered new bolts from McMaster to replace them.
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